Unhappy with Viper chipping

O

ohbejuan

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 21, 2021
Messages
544
I had a progress post, but I am reposting to get some advice. This was an experiment with using liquid mask for chipping. I do not like how it turned out. So do I touch up, paint over, or strip and start again?

I would love advice on stripping. It (bottom layer to top). Vallejo polyurethane primer, light grey model air coat, white model air coat, a coat of AK interactive's intermediate gauzy agent, then the red paint. All paint is water based acrylic.

Thanks!



47532F42-A78E-44BD-A3AA-00137A62392A.jpeg
517917EC-B81D-46B8-99E0-DB420FE6EA17.jpeg
 
I've used 99% isopropyl alcohol and a toothbrush to remove Vallejo paint. I just dabbed some on the model with the toothbrush then started scrubbing, that was on a 1:35 Sherman build, took it all off. It's a little slow going though. As you do this some clumps of paint may get left behind, just use some fresh IA and scrub it clean. I had Vallejo primer as a bascoat on the Sherman, it didn't not completely remove that but it did soften the primer. I left it alone for about a week and it was ready to go. Already primed it again and added the color coat.
As far as chipping, it's tricky work. If you are wanting to use Vallejo, which I prefer, it is pretty easy to work with. I've tried salt, hairspray, "chipping mediums", they all work in various ways, but practice is really the best. Try a variety of techniques on scrap material ... anything that you can get paint on. One thing I have found that helps me is to give the base color a coat of Testors Dullcote. It really helps protect that base color, especially if you're using Vallejo paints. I also tried using Elmer's Washable School glue this weekend with good results. I'll post about that out here soon.
Erik
 
mr lucky said:
I've used 99% isopropyl alcohol and a toothbrush to remove Vallejo paint. I just dabbed some on the model with the toothbrush then started scrubbing, that was on a 1:35 Sherman build, took it all off. It's a little slow going though. As you do this some clumps of paint may get left behind, just use some fresh IA and scrub it clean. I had Vallejo primer as a bascoat on the Sherman, it didn't not completely remove that but it did soften the primer. I left it alone for about a week and it was ready to go. Already primed it again and added the color coat.
As far as chipping, it's tricky work. If you are wanting to use Vallejo, which I prefer, it is pretty easy to work with. I've tried salt, hairspray, "chipping mediums", they all work in various ways, but practice is really the best. Try a variety of techniques on scrap material ... anything that you can get paint on. One thing I have found that helps me is to give the base color a coat of Testors Dullcote. It really helps protect that base color, especially if you're using Vallejo paints. I also tried using Elmer's Washable School glue this weekend with good results. I'll post about that out here soon.
Erik
Click to expand...
thanks for the thoughtful reply! I am realizing that I need some more practice. but that is the fun part! I have started this model using a second kit and I am going to try some more stuff. I really want to try hairspray and salt. YouTube makes it all look so easy ;-)
 
ohbejuan said:
thanks for the thoughtful reply! I am realizing that I need some more practice. but that is the fun part! I have started this model using a second kit and I am going to try some more stuff. I really want to try hairspray and salt. YouTube makes it all look so easy ;-)
Click to expand...
YouTube makes everything look easy! I just posted my thoughts on using Elmer's washable glue in the paint, weathering, and decal section. That might be another option for ya. But again, I can't stress enough, practice practice practice!
 
Super clean is a biodegradable cleaner you can soak you kit in (won't damage plastic or glue). Should take all of your acrylics (besides the Poly Primer) off in 24 hours or so. I've heard the primer will come up, but I've never let a kit soak long enough for that. White vinegar and Simple Green also work, but take a little longer.


As for masking. I have never been able to use masking fluid without creating tears or causing peeling with water based acrylics (not saying it can't be done, I just haven't been successful). However, Vallejo's Chipping Medium works fantastically! You can brush it on or lay it down with an AB, put your water based acrylics over the top, and to get chipping just rub/tease the paint with a wet brush after it dries.

The nice thing about the chipping medium is a heavy rub will cause chipping while you can go much lighter for a worn through but not chipped look. You can even saturate a spot with water, let it soak and just BARELY touch it to give it a nice patina texture without removing the pigment.
I did all chipping on this little 1/35 with the Vallejo Medium:
Dystopian Honda Z Kei COMPLETED
 
That looks really good. I am in the bag for Vallejo, so I will give this a shot. If I put down a gloss coat (saw AK Interactive Intermediate Gauzy agent) can I put the chipping medium over the top? DO I mix it with other paint, or just add a little?


Also, can I chip just a little?
 
Marktastrophe said:
Super clean is a biodegradable cleaner you can soak you kit in (won't damage plastic or glue). Should take all of your acrylics (besides the Poly Primer) off in 24 hours or so. I've heard the primer will come up, but I've never let a kit soak long enough for that. White vinegar and Simple Green also work, but take a little longer.


As for masking. I have never been able to use masking fluid without creating tears or causing peeling with water based acrylics (not saying it can't be done, I just haven't been successful). However, Vallejo's Chipping Medium works fantastically! You can brush it on or lay it down with an AB, put your water based acrylics over the top, and to get chipping just rub/tease the paint with a wet brush after it dries.

The nice thing about the chipping medium is a heavy rub will cause chipping while you can go much lighter for a worn through but not chipped look. You can even saturate a spot with water, let it soak and just BARELY touch it to give it a nice patina texture without removing the pigment.
I did all chipping on this little 1/35 with the Vallejo Medium:
Dystopian Honda Z Kei COMPLETED
Click to expand...
this thing rules btw
 
I assume you applied the masking with a brush, is that right? I think what you have is fine, but ideally it would have been best to augment those applications with a sponge dipped in the masking solution. And definitely use a thicker mask like Mr. Masking Solution Neo. I made the mistake of using regular masking once and regretted it.

As for salt, I tried it only once with water and can say that it does not work well with Tamiya acrylics. The salt is dissolved slightly with the water, which creates splotches in the paint around the salt grains and it looks yucky. I don't think lacquer paint has this issue since it isn't water-soluble like acrylic.
 
stevethefish said:
I assume you applied the masking with a brush, is that right? I think what you have is fine, but ideally it would have been best to augment those applications with a sponge dipped in the masking solution. And definitely use a thicker mask like Mr. Masking Solution Neo. I made the mistake of using regular masking once and regretted it.

As for salt, I tried it only once with water and can say that it does not work well with Tamiya acrylics. The salt is dissolved slightly with the water, which creates splotches in the paint around the salt grains and it looks yucky. I don't think lacquer paint has this issue since it isn't water-soluble like acrylic.
Click to expand...
thanks for the advice! I do not have a paint booth so I am committed to acrylic for the time being
 
ohbejuan said:
That looks really good. I am in the bag for Vallejo, so I will give this a shot. If I put down a gloss coat (saw AK Interactive Intermediate Gauzy agent) can I put the chipping medium over the top? DO I mix it with other paint, or just add a little?


Also, can I chip just a little?
Click to expand...
You can apply over the entire kit, or in certain spots before putting your pigments down. Then you can tease a little to a lot to create small rubbing to large chipping.
I believe the chipping medium should work over the top of just about anything, as long as w/e you are laying it over has cured properly and you put water based acrylics down directly on top of the medium.

This was the youtube video that pushed me to start using it:
 
I'd apply the mask medium in smaller bits, maybe with a toothpick or an old paint brush.
I've never used masking medium, but rather, I've used the salt technique for chipping. Though mostly I just do it by hand.
 
You can also try applying it with a rough sponge to get finer more controlled chipping

Also part of the problem may be the mask medium being used.

For example Micro Mask is a water based mask, so applying water based acrylics over it ca react with/dissolve the masking

In tat case you would want to make sure to use alcohol based acrylics or enamels
 
Right now I am committed to water based acrylics for venting and ease of use. I was using Humbrol Maskol and I am going to try the Vallejo mask medium. I hope that works well with al my Vallejo paints
 
Humbrol is the same one I've never been able to use successfully with water based acrylics! lol.
It's worked for me with lacquers no issue though... I have to wonder if the water is effecting it at all now.
 
For what it's worth I think it looks pretty good. Maybe just a little "incomplete"
You've basically got some "large scale" paint scrapes. I think maybe you need to supplement with some "small scale" ones. Like the chips you've got are fairly big areas where the paint has worn away totally. I would say maybe add more numerous, smaller chips, on leading edges of things especially.
 
tetsujin said:
For what it's worth I think it looks pretty good. Maybe just a little "incomplete"
You've basically got some "large scale" paint scrapes. I think maybe you need to supplement with some "small scale" ones. Like the chips you've got are fairly big areas where the paint has worn away totally. I would say maybe add more numerous, smaller chips, on leading edges of things especially.
Click to expand...
thanks! this is good advice. I think I am going to use these parts for future testing of chipping. A place to do some experiments.
 
tetsujin said:
For what it's worth I think it looks pretty good. Maybe just a little "incomplete"
You've basically got some "large scale" paint scrapes. I think maybe you need to supplement with some "small scale" ones. Like the chips you've got are fairly big areas where the paint has worn away totally. I would say maybe add more numerous, smaller chips, on leading edges of things especially.
Click to expand...
Yeah, this is essentially what I meant to say. Just add more chipping and those won't stand out so much.
 
For the sake of argument most of these techniques are not necessary. The old school way is how the ILM guys did it. They just wen over the models with Dremel Moto-Tools and scratched the model's paint surfaces. Then for chips they took paint brushes over the top and used the base colour to simulate paint rubs. This works best and no messy salt or masking. I've tried all the same techniques that these guys have used on the forums and found that the best is the old way and it looks best, is easiest and works like a charm every time.
 

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