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Thanks for all replies. Unfortunately, the white decal paper would work only if said decals were "consecutive" so without gaps which is not the case...

So, after the local importer of Hobbyboss models here has confirmed that my order of a spare set of decals for my Los Angeles sub will take months with an "unknown" delivery time, i started looking for ways of copying all decals of my next builts before using them in case i mess one up during...

As the title says...and currently creating havoc with my ocd... just by knowing that it is indeed misaligned. Can this be somehow fixed without destroying everything around/under it? It was applied using Micro Set/Micro Sol a couple of hours ago. I has not been varnished over. Thanks in advance

A warm hi to all. Working on another sub. which has a two color hull (upper dark grey/lower red). I just finished the upper section and I am wondering what is the best way to move forward. With that, i mean what is the best way to safeguard the already painted section considering that it was...

Will do. I suppose afterwards will have to start over meaning primer, paint etc. Will there not be a color/hue difference where the two old/new (sail/rest of the boat) paint jobs meet?

To address all questions: The pigment is a Vallejo "Natural" one Yes, what you see is after a (relatively fresh, one hour ago) coat of Vallejo matt varnish All primers, paints, varnishes used are Vallejo water based accrylics except the white "salt line" which was AK Interactive enamel.

So, having established that I hate weathering, pigments (and all related stuff) and having also decided that I will built all my next Subs in a "just out of the shipyard" state (albeit with some paneliners to accentuate any details), my question to all good folks is, can this mess be somehow...

So, someone got me a H&S Evolution Silverline two in one (the one with both 0.2 and 0.4 needle & nozzle sets) as a gift. This was great news because although I already have a H&S Ultra 2024 which is great (with a 0.45 needle), I still wanted something with a smaller needle size for finer work...

Yeah..as i said, using an exacto knife was not the best option in this case. The chain drill solution was already kindly advised by @urumomo therefore a nice set of mini jewel files is already on the way :D Thanks for all the help provided

Correct

I have various tools, with the most relevant being: - 2 scribers (Trumpeter & Tamiya) - 2 vinyl masking tapes - a mini hand drill - a Tamiya hand saw Not sure what else might be useful in this case.

Hi folks. So, is it possible to create a gap where on the model a recessed panel is? I wanted to better simulate the real deal by removing the designed panel and creating a gap in its place to fill with Micro Krystal Klear but apparently trying to do so with an exacto knife is neither easy nor...

So the front part of this nice little Type 214 1/350 sub made by Wolfpack is basically a cap that "obviously" would require some work after gluing... What you see in the photo is the best I have been able to achieve after messing with it for a day. I have filled in the seams/gaps with putty...

I've been having mixed (mostly not great) results using AK Interactive enamel washes and therefore would appreciate some information from anyone who might be happy with them in case I am doing something incorrectly. Are we sure they should be used straight from the bottle? I am asking because...

Thanks for the reply. Fair enough and clear. The only thing basically that I want to know is if the "painted on look" can be achieved only by painting over decals with Matt or Satin will do as well.

A warm hi to all. I need some help from all experienced folks out there. I just airbrushed two coats of Gloss varnish on my model to seal in all the colors so far and to prepare the surface for decals using Micro set/sol. The next parts planned are to seal in the decals using Satin varnish to...

Good to know I do not have to do the entire thing again... Cannot be certain of the distance but I would say about roughly 8-10cm away. Should i try for closer? I always fear i might overspray a section when i am too close... So, next step is to lightly sand the problematic areas with 1000...

Thanks for the replies, much appreciated. Yes, underneath there is primer. Hmmm...come to think of it there two kinds actually. Initially i primed the entire model with a light grey AK Interactive primer from a spray can but some additional seam-putty filling/sanding was required and the next...

Hi to all and happy new year! Complete newbie here trying out his first built. The question i have is regarding the "shadows" shown on the photos after the 2nd coat of paint was applied. They are on both sides of the conning tower and even though not super visible (to be honest) they are more...