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I considered a wood deck for my kit, but the wood decks offered in 1/700 look a little too out of scale for me. I used them before and they all fit really nice and were easy to use, they just gave a clunky look to the model after it was finished.

I'm tossed between 3 and 9 o'clock. 12 looks too much like just wood stain and 6 looks a little too sun bleached for the time period.

I think your colors look pretty close.

I foresee modelers who are not able to do their own source files being able to buy just the 3D files for parts and kits and do their own printing. I have a few kits I printed from downloaded files. After paying for the files and material, the cost is just a small fraction of what an injection...

I did the flat black undercoat.

I used Vallejo 964 for 5N on my Enterprise. To me, it has a purple tint to it in certain light.

5N has been a problem for me to match as well. Its either too purple or too grey.

Here are the fighting tops. The 3D printed set compared to the kits. Trumpeters detail is a little better in the Texas than their Arizona, but the Model Monkey prints are inexpensive, easy to work with, and contribute to a nicer overall look.

But I did lay out the kit last night and started studying the instructions.

I know what you mean Ed, soo many squirrels. I can't decide when to start the Texas. I have the Thermopylae and a B-24 on the bench. I have gone to the closet stash three times now to get the Texas kit and the first two attempts I brought back a different kit.

I'm slowing clearing my workbench for the Texas. I just got my order from Model Monkey. His fighting tops look so much better than the ones in the kit.

I found that following the order of steps in model ship instructions is a good way to learn how not to do something again. I am not kidding with these Trumpeter battleships when I say that the superstructures need to be test built without glue to see what type of origami puzzle it may become...

This is a good kit, I look forward to following your build.

Nice start. Those Treaty class cruisers sure had pretty lines.

I mainly build 1/700, and something many of us found out was that the fit and scale problems we had with some the 1/700 kits were caused from tooling being copied from the 1/350 models and scaled down. I experienced this with the Prinz Eugene, Dreadnaught, and Banner's Arizona. The good side...

I like the photo binder sheet idea because I have had problems with humidity affecting my brass PE. I use a letter organizer box. Most of my PE is sent in letter size envelopes so I keep them in the envelope and I file them by scale and model type. I will write on the envelope what is missing...

I have had fits issues with all my Trumpeter ships in the past. They get trickier in the superstructure. Trial fit and assemble as much as possible before gluing and don't be alarmed if you have to do some cutting and adjusting so that the upper superstructure looks right.

Especially in 1/700.