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It's interesting info, because I think that every source that mentions the Army Air Force's decision to drop camoflage for natural metal only talks about the weight savings. I can't remember seeing any mention of any other arguments, especially ones that refute the common knowledge.

Sorry, my QA senses tingled when I saw "Gage" for "Gauge" :D

Tamiya did, and the other makers who collaborated in the Waterline Series of 1/700 ship kits. They included a white metal bar to glue to the waterline base. I never use it, myself.

Hi, Edbert! I'm getting caught up on your project now. This is ambitious-my scale for ships is much smaller, 1/700. You've got great progress there. If the kits are both by I Love Kit, then it's very possible that they just reboxed the sprues. The Yorktowns-Yorktown (CV-5), Enterprise...

Yeah, I don't know if you, BarleyBop, and you, Glenn S, are the same age as I am. I was born in 1964, and I grew up on Monogram, Revell, Aurora, Airfix, and Lindberg. And I remember when Monogram's multi-engined aircraft models were released in the 70s, and Shep Paine's "Tips" brochures were...

Yeah, keep the tube, it won't go bad, not for a long time, anyway, and you may run into a case where you would want to use it. As far as paints go, there are going to be as many opinions and recommendations as there are modelers. Some stick with a single brand and prefer that brand over...

With styrene parts, and styrene-to-styrene bonds, I use styrene cement. I want the weld bond that styrene cement creates; it melts the parts along the seam and creates a kind of a weld between the parts. When you say you bought Testor's glue, you need to be more specific. From your description...

Nope. It's what I believe. I leave the kit-bashing to the HyperScalers.

Tamiya 1/35 armor?

I don't think they're all that bad. For today's standards, I'd say rather they present more of a challenge.

I'd be inclined to see if the manufacturer has a website, too, and see if they list that info there.

Hasegawa is consistent in its standard of high quality. HobbyBoss is hit-or-miss, depending on the specific kit. I built HobbyBoss' F4F Wildcat kit, which was pretty good, though it was also pretty much a part-for-part copy of the excellent Tamiya kit. I can't speak to chipping fluid; I don't...

Depending on the brand/model airbrush you have, there may be an attachment to use with glass jars. Paasche makes such an attachment, for example, and some models come with glass jars, too. The jars are about the size of the larger Tamiya paint jars. That lets you mix paints in the jar and...

When I was a kid, I did that for a time with the box art from Revell's 1/720 ship kits. I cut the top panel to hang (ie, tack up) on the wall. I cut the side panels up for the pictures of the other kits, to keep like baseball cards. I was pretty unsophisticated about it, though. Just a pair...

I have their hex punch set, which is useful for making bolt heads of various sizes. It's a nice set to have, but the punches pulled out of 2 of the tapping heads, or whatever they're called. Still useful, but the punch will sometimes come away when removing it from the die.

A Boy Named Sue

Welcome to the Herd! That's an interesting subject. I look forward to more of your models. Best regards, Brad

I forget the brand I had but it only had one speed. The frame was light orange with red highlights, and a red banana seat. Never got a sissy bar, either, and I'm glad I didn't. Looking back, it would have been a little harder to mount but more importantly, dismount, if you had to in a hurry...

Yes, I subscribe to his channel. I enjoy learning the history of companies whose models I built as a kid and build today. I have Thomas Graham's books on Monogram, Revell and Aurora, too. They're good references, though the Monogram and Revell books only go up to the forced merger under Odyssey...

This build is well-timed, too, coinciding with the 50th anniversary of the release of "Jaws".