17-Pounder SP Valentine (“Archer”)

Jakko

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Oct 9, 2024
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About a month and a half ago, I was at a model show for a weekend, where I bought this kit:

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Though called Archer on the box top, and indeed by most people who know of the vehicle, the British Army never used that name for it. During the war, the Ministry of Supply had decided on the various "A" names for self-propelled artillery and used them in its correspondence etc. but the War Office actively rejected their use. To them, this vehicle was a 17-pounder SP Valentine, or a Valentine SP, or some variation on that which seems to have varied almost with the person using it.

Whatever it was called, the vehicle was developed from mid-1942 on in order to have a self-propelled 17-pounder anti-tank gun in service sooner rather than later. Because the Valentine infantry tank was reliable and in production, its hull was used but with a new fighting compartment replacing the turret and driver's compartment, with the gun firing over the engine deck rather than to the front because this resulted in a handier vehicle with a lot less overhang of the long gun barrel. All kinds of minor problems needed to be solved before it could be gotten into production, though, so it wasn't until early 1944 that the first prototypes were actually tested to see if they were suitable for the envisioned role. The first production vehicles were delivered from Vickers in May of 1944, and production continued until October 1945, by which time 655 had been built, out of the initially planned 800.

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Though the backward-facing gun was a disadvantage at times, for crews it had an unexpected benefit, in that infantry commanders didn't generally view the vehicle as a "tank" — as they were likely to do with M10 SP guns, which had a turret. This meant the Valentine SPs were not often called upon to perform missions they were unsuitable for, because to the infantry, any tracked vehicle with a turret was a tank and expected to act like one.

There is a persistent misapprehension that, because of the rearward-firing gun, the driver of the Valentine SP would have to get out of his seat before firing, else he would be killed by the recoiling gun. However, the gun has a fixed recoil guard behind it, to prevent the driver from holding his head back far enough to be in the path of the gun after it fires. I'm sure new drivers would have been hesitant to stay in their seats, though :)


The kit

As you'll probably expect from Tamiya, this kit is very well-moulded and comes with excellent instructions (which you can view on Scalemates). It's moulded in medium green plastic with a small transparent sprue and a bit of cord to make tow cables. The kit only has link-and-length tracks, no one-piece, flexible ones, and also has three figures and markings for two vehicles: one Canadian in North-West Europe and one Polish in Italy. Not sure how accurate those are, but the colour indicated in the instructions is wrong: they say Tamiya XF-61, which is dark green, when the vehicle should be SCC 15 olive drab. I also find the crew slightly odd in that you get a commander, a loader and what's described as a gunner. But the "gunner" is standing behind the gunner's seat as if maybe he's about to climb into it, and the commander is hanging on to the outside of the vehicle as shown on the box top.

Oh, and I don't have sprue shots because I started building this at the show :) This is as far as I got:

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I just followed the instructions and built the lower hull and suspension. A few days later, I also installed the track on the left-hand side:

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I don't normally do this, but with link-and-length tracks, fitting them before painting is about the only realistic option unless you leave the wheels loose and glue the track to those so you can take wheels-and-tracks off as a unit. I don't intend to do that, but will paint the whole lower part of the vehicle in a mud colour, removing the need to do detail painting in areas that are hard to reach with the track on. After the glue had dried, I also added the track on the other side, of course.

Here is the basic mount for the gun:

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The ball joint you can see at the lower left goes into a pivot on the floor, so the whole thing can turn left or right around that.

The main part is the middle bit, to which two side plates have to be glued, but Chris Camfield's book on the Archer has a good photo that shows there were no seams like there are on the it parts, so I puttied them closed. I didn't take particular care at the bottom, because the spent shell bin will go over that.

It could use a little more work, though:

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Aside from attaching the seat and controls, I also added some plastic strip, punched bolt heads and stretched sprue to replicate missing details.

On the gun, I filled the seams where the breech block goes, because I want to pose it open:

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I also filled the two holes for locating pins in the side of the breech, one for the protective shield and one for the top of the breech operating lever — but I think I'll have to open the latter up again because I suspect it always returned to the vertical after use automatically. In any case, I filled the other hole because you can see the locating pin between the shield and the breech, when there wasn't one IRL, so I will cut it away.

There were also ejector pin markings to fill on the side armour and gun shield:

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Here's the finished gun:

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I cut away a locating pin for the guard on the right, because it would block the breech opening lever from working. I also cut away the bar underneath that connects the left and right guards, because it was moulded half on one side and half on the other, which would have given a join in the middle. Replacing it by some 1 mm plastic rod easily avoids that.

And now we're making real progress:

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… or are we?

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This is what's actually in the previous photo: everything is still loose. I will build the superstructure on the upper hull half, without the gun mounting, gun and shield, so I can paint inside and out in one go. The interior will have the same colour as the exterior, so I don't feel like painting it first, then fitting the gun etc. in, masking the open top, and then painting the outside if I can also do pretty much the same work without the masking and in one go for painting.
 
Before I could glue the upper hull together, though, I had to build a crew.

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The loader comes with the kit, the gunner is Bronco parts modified to fit reasonably well in the seat (his pixie suit doesn't help there). I then had to figure out how to stick some arms onto him so that it looks like he's actually got a right arm attached to his shoulder …

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The gunner's right arm sits a bit low, but this way I could glue it to the rest of the figure. When he's in his seat with all of the rest of the vehicle around him, it won't be noticeable at all. The driver is also not doing anything in particular with his hands, but again, that will hardly be visible with the upper hull on. Now I just need to fill the gaps with putty.

Talking about the upper hull:

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I first painted the parts on the inside of the armour plates that will be hard to reach later, and then I glued them on. The whole upper hull is loose from the lower, and will remain so until after spraying.

And with that done, the rest was also quick to build:

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That is to say: after I did that, I noticed Tamiya has forgotten some details, including the cables to the headlights:

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This is 0.5 and 0.3 mm copper wire, with the T-pieces made from 0.8 mm brass tube (inner diameter 0.6 mm). The hook at the bottom of the glacis plate is also copper wire, because even though you get a perfectly good plastic part for that, I managed to lose it when trying to get it into position and haven't been able to find it again. The driver's vision flap has a spring made from copper wire (I originally made a stay from a bit of plastic card, but after I made it, I noticed that on the real vehicle this was some kind of spring). I also replaced the fire extinguisher with one from an Asuka Sherman, because Tamiya's doesn't have a strap that holds it to its bracket. The holder for a cable reel on the right front mudguard has also been corrected by glueing a little disc on the inside bracket and filling the slot in it with putty, because only the outboard one had that slot. Oh, and I also added some bolts to the spare track holder.

At the back, I also added a light with a cable (only on the right, there was none on the left) and used some plastic to make a few round thingamajigs inside the raised surround at the front of the engine deck:

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There should also be a kind of pillars at the back near the smoke emitters, over which the electrical cable to the emitters runs, but they're not in the kit at all either, so I added them from plastic strip and card:

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It still needs a cable (from copper wire) adding between the little block at the top and the hole I drilled in the fitting on the lower hull, but I can only do that once the hull halves have been joined, and I'll only do that after I've sprayed them.

The white crap on the undercarriage is acrylic texture gel, to replicate mud:

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Never heard of this little guy before but it's a pretty neat looking piece of armor. Looking forward to seeing more on this one @Jakko
 
It's one of those vehicles that never really made it into the mainstream stuff about the war, no :) It's also not that big, and being Tamiya, easy enough to build. However, I am a little disappointed with the level of detail, and if I had known, I would probably not have bought this kit. But as I have, I'll finish it :) For now, I'm waiting on some 3D-printed snatch hooks so I can fit the tow cables, as once they're on, I can start painting the model.
 
cables to the headlights
... a small detail, but I find it does make a difference if you bother, or know, to add them on.
In the absence of good photos, sometimes it is hard to know.

I like the way you are fitting the crew, and giving them something meaningful to do.
Too often, they are just standing there, or drinking tea.
 
In the absence of good photos, sometimes it is hard to know.
I purchased Chris Camfield's book Self-Propelled 17-Pounder Archer — Rearwards into action! last year, and though it's not a photo book as such, the pictures in it came in very useful for adding details to this model.

Talking of photos in that, it includes a number from a source I wasn't aware of before, the photographic archives of the town of Meppel in the north of the Netherlands. If you enter 1945 for the start and end years ("in de jaren:" and "tot en met:" at the top), then from about page 15 on there are plenty of photos of the town's liberation by Canadian troops, including tanks and other AFVs like Archers.

I like the way you are fitting the crew, and giving them something meaningful to do.
One of the things that attracted me to this particular kit is that the figures are "in action" — but I was a little disappointed by what you actually get. They look more like they're about to go into action, with the gunner being the worst of all, his pose giving the impression that he's an old man figuring out how to climb into his cramped seat. By calling that figure the commander instead, discarding the kit's commander figure, and building a proper gunner, the crew ends up a lot more believable. Oncve painting is done, the "action" feel will be enhanced by having some empty shell casings into the bin below the gun and leaving a number of places in the ammo racks empty.
 
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After I got a load of snatch hooks in the mail today, I could finally finish building the Archer. The tow cables Tamiya supplies are not the kind you usually see in photos of the real thing: you get single cables with a steel eye at each end, which look very American in style. The British cables are twin double ones with a snatch hooks at one end of each cable, and a teardrop-shaped eye connecting the other ends. I found suitable cables in my spares box, but not the hooks.

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The cables are mounted here approximately as they should be, officially — but they're often carried very different in photos. The teardrop-shaped eye isn't visible here, but it's on the left-hand side, held by the hook that's there for this purpose.

I also added some stowage, because Arches in photographs often carry a good deal of that. I didn't really feel like making too much so I just put on a few ammo boxes and jerrycans:

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The boxes are resin bits from Panzer Art, the jerrycans are Bronco (three British) and Italeri (one American) in a rack made from some bits of plastic strip.

Now all that's left to do is wait for the glue to dry so I can prime the model, so here are some photos of it complete:

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Minus some bits that will only be added after painting, and of course, I can still take this apart to get paint everywhere it needs to go :)

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The twin cables very nice detail... especially as they look quite naturally fixed to the vehicle.
I see what you meant about the driver... dunno if I could turn my back to a gun recoiling towards the nape of my neck!
Interesting build.
 
The twin cables very nice detail... especially as they look quite naturally fixed to the vehicle.
When I had mostly completed the upper hull, I was about to add the kit-supplied cables and went to look at photos to see if they were really usually stowed as the instructions tell you to. Turns out that yes, they usually were, but the cables themselves were not necessarily accurate.

Because they're string, they were easy to fit to the model — much more so than if I had used copper wire, I know that. But I found these already built in my spares box, and of the right length, so I wasn't going to bother making new ones :) I think they're from a Tamiya Cromwell, but I'm not 100% certain.

I see what you meant about the driver... dunno if I could turn my back to a gun recoiling towards the nape of my neck!
I suspect new drivers were nervous too :) But you can immediately tell that the old story about the driver having to get out was a myth: the recoil guard is there specifically to protect him from the gun.
 
At the same time as my M4 (105 mm) HVSS, I also put a coat of primer on the Archer yesterday, and today I sprayed it with SCC 15 olive drab from AK 3rd Gen, but unlike Cuckoo, I lightened it a bit with some sand colour.

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Looking at the result, I could have added a bit more sand, I think.

I also intended to spray the whole underside with a mud colour, but after I had put the OD on this one and then sprayed the M4A3, I had been at it for about an hour and a half (because of all the nooks and crannies on both, that took a lot of time) and didn't feel like it anymore for the moment.
 


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