Any airbrush junkies out there?

[ohbejuan]

This post is honestly not a troll. I know people have strong opinions about their airbrushes.

I have two:

My first was a Neo CN for Iwata. It is fine. I use it for lower PSI stuff, clear coats, and primer sometimes.
I picked up a Paasche Raptor with 3 needles .25, .38, and .66. It is good! I like that it is American made, and that I can replacement parts from my local model shop.

I still struggle with both clogging and spider webbing. I think this is because I just need to experiment more, and learn more about paints and thinning. but I am also considering if I invested in a higher quality airbrush, I might have more luck. I use Vallejo acrylics most of the time if that makes a difference.

I am comparing the Iwata Eclipse Series, and the Harder and Steenbeck Evolution 2 in 1. I like the idea of having multiple needle options in one airbrush, and Iwata kind of hides the precise needle sizes.

Part of me thinks I should "learn to play tennis with a wooden racquet" as my dad used to say. Meaning, using fancy tools can hide flaws in your basic technique.
Anyway, I welcome your thoughts. I don't really have a question here except maybe, when do you update your airbrush? and what do you recommend?

 

[Pantherman]

This post is honestly not a troll. I know people have strong opinions about their airbrushes.

I have two:

My first was a Neo CN for Iwata. It is fine. I use it for lower PSI stuff, clear coats, and primer sometimes.
I picked up a Paasche Raptor with 3 needles .25, .38, and .66. It is good! I like that it is American made, and that I can replacement parts from my local model shop.

I still struggle with both clogging and spider webbing. I think this is because I just need to experiment more, and learn more about paints and thinning. but I am also considering if I invested in a higher quality airbrush, I might have more luck. I use Vallejo acrylics most of the time if that makes a difference.

I am comparing the Iwata Eclipse Series, and the Harder and Steenbeck Evolution 2 in 1. I like the idea of having multiple needle options in one airbrush, and Iwata kind of hides the precise needle sizes.

Part of me thinks I should "learn to play tennis with a wooden racquet" as my dad used to say. Meaning, using fancy tools can hide flaws in your basic technique.
Anyway, I welcome your thoughts. I don't really have a question here except maybe, when do you update your airbrush? and what do you recommend?

I have 2 really cheap timbertech brushes, both around £20. They work OK and have been using them for around 18 months. I think I am improving so my next big purchase will be neo Iwata CN at around £100 as I think I have learnt alot from using the cheaper ones. The main thing I believe is keeping it clean. Paint mixture plays a huge part and have gotten fairly good at that. Anyway, that's where I am and where I'm going with airbrushing. Pantherman

 

[ohbejuan]

I have 2 really cheap timbertech brushes, both around £20. They work OK and have been using them for around 18 months. I think I am improving so my next big purchase will be neo Iwata CN at around £100 as I think I have learnt alot from using the cheaper ones. The main thing I believe is keeping it clean. Paint mixture plays a huge part and have gotten fairly good at that. Anyway, that's where I am and where I'm going with airbrushing. Pantherman

that sounds like where I am too. I need to do more work with paint mixture.

 

[Pantherman]

that sounds like where I am too. I need to do more work with paint mixture.

I use mainly vallejo as I really enjoy figure painting, it mixes and thins nicely. Each colour or type seems to need different ratios unlike Tamiya which I am starting to use more mainly for airbrushing, pretty constant 50/50 paint/thinner for the same results each time. Figure painting with Tamiya is really hard work, it's just to sticky.
Pantherman

 

[Pantherman]

I use mainly vallejo as I really enjoy figure painting, it mixes and thins nicely. Each colour or type seems to need different ratios unlike Tamiya which I am starting to use more mainly for airbrushing, pretty constant 50/50 paint/thinner for the same results each time. Figure painting with Tamiya is really hard work, it's just to sticky.
Pantherman

Latest attempt at figure painting. Still alot of details to add but the base coats came up reasonably well. Pantherman

 

[plastickjunkie]

I have a Neo which is great, and several Badgers. The Sotar is fantabulous for super fine detail painting.

 

[the Baron]

I see the airbrush more as a necessary evil. And it poses a dilemma: you can get excellent finishes, but, you have to clean the airbrush, which for me is a pain the ass.
But I have 2, a Paasche VL, which is a workhorse, and an Iwata Neo, which I haven't used yet.
The VL is a siphon-fed brush, which I find a little odd to handle, since the cup has to dress to the left or the right. I want to be able to hold the brush almost like a pen or pencil, and the cup gets in the way. The Iwata is a gravity-fed brush, so the cup is out of the way.

 

[ohbejuan]

I see the airbrush more as a necessary evil. And it poses a dilemma: you can get excellent finishes, but, you have to clean the airbrush, which for me is a pain the ass.
But I have 2, a Paasche VL, which is a workhorse, and an Iwata Neo, which I haven't used yet.
The VL is a siphon-fed brush, which I find a little odd to handle, since the cup has to dress to the left or the right. I want to be able to hold the brush almost like a pen or pencil, and the cup gets in the way. The Iwata is a gravity-fed brush, so the cup is out of the way.

I did have a Paasche H that was siphon fed. I used it just to get the basics. I dropped it annd smashed the needle and Nozzle and opted for the Neo instead.

 

[ohbejuan]

I have a Neo which is great, and several Badgers. The Sotar is fantabulous for super fine detail painting.

I have heard good things about the Sotar. I am not good at detail painting yet.

 

[Jim62]

I recently got a NEO because it works at a much lower pressure than my Eclipse will. So I go back and forth depending on what I need to paint. I do have a couple of real cheap brushes I started with. They are dust collectors now.

 

[CFster]

Badger has horrible QC and customer service. Same with Paasche. they are not what they were. They're not helping the cause as far as dispelling the stigma regarding American manufacturing.

The best airbrushes come out of Japan. Not China. Not Germany (even though Harder & Steenbeck is owned by Iwata).

Iwata or GSI Creos are my picks, and I'm reasonably sure GSIs are built in the same factory as Iwatas.

Iwata's Neo line is their budget line and they're manufactured in China, not Japan.

Vallejo paints are awful for tip dry. Proper thinning including a flow improver and retarder is a wise move. Thinning with Future will result in a smoother and harder painted surface.

Vallejo primer is the worst primer in the history of primers.

 

[the Baron]

I did have a Paasche H that was siphon fed. I used it just to get the basics. I dropped it annd smashed the needle and Nozzle and opted for the Neo instead.

If Paasche airbrushes were cars, they'd be Studebakers. That's not a knock on them-they make me think of the time when our cars were big, rugged, reliable.
I've dropped my VL already, on the cement floor in my cellar, and there were no ill effects. I haven't really mastered doing fine work with it, though, like the Luftwaffe squiggle camo on a 1/48 scale model.
I am curious to try out my Neo, but I haven't had anything to airbrush for a while. A lot of kits ending up on the Shelf of Doom.

 

[ohbejuan]

Badger has horrible QC and customer service. Same with Paasche. they are not what they were. They're not helping the cause as far as dispelling the stigma regarding American manufacturing.

The best airbrushes come out of Japan. Not China. Not Germany (even though Harder & Steenbeck is owned by Iwata).

Iwata or GSI Creos are my picks, and I'm reasonably sure GSIs are built in the same factory as Iwatas.

Iwata's Neo line is their budget line and they're manufactured in China, not Japan.

Vallejo paints are awful for tip dry. Proper thinning including a flow improver and retarder is a wise move. Thinning with Future will result in a smoother and harder painted surface.

Vallejo primer is the worst primer in the history of primers.

If I am using Vallejo water based acrylics, what primer would you recommend? Enamels and Lacquers are out. I don't have the ventilation

 

[urumomo]

Badger's Stynylrez ?

 

[ohbejuan]

Badger's Stynylrez ?

I have heard good things! no toxic?

 

[urumomo]

Polyurethane resin .
Sprays wonderfully , good adhesion on polystyrene .
no toxicity worries .

 

[CFster]

If I am using Vallejo water based acrylics, what primer would you recommend? Enamels and Lacquers are out. I don't have the ventilation

Stynylrez. Also sold under the Ultimate Modeling Products brand.

Here's the deal. You need to shake it. Take the cap off and stir it to get the settled paint off the bottom. Then shake it for 15 minutes.

Don't thin it but you can use a couple drops of flow improver if you're having problems. You're going to have to use a fairly high pressure at around 30psi. Preferably a .4 or larger needle airbrush because it's pretty thick.

You can almost hose it on and it will level out - it's amazing.

 

[ohbejuan]

I will give it a shot! I have one of this vortex paint mixers, so mixing it is easy

 

[TimM63]

I just bought an Eclipse and have been using a Master. What a difference. The Eclipse gives me so much more control and flows beautifully.
At first I was hesitant to spend $170 on an airbrush but I am so glad I did.

 

[Pantherman]

If I am using Vallejo water based acrylics, what primer would you recommend? Enamels and Lacquers are out. I don't have the ventilation

I use Vallejo thinner and or Vallejo flow improver. Once you have the mix right it sprays a treat. It seems though that the mix needs a slight tweek depending on the Vallejo colour used. Pantherman