Dornier Do 335 WIP

[jnicholes]

Hi guys,

I figured it's time I ask a potentially difficult question.

First some context. It's been very hot here where I live. As a result, the paint that I bought for the model airplane I was building has been drying really fast. Same with the glue. I was actually really surprised. As a result, I was able to work on it a little bit faster than anticipated.

BEFORE I put on the decals, I wanted to show you all my progress. Please keep in mind, it's my first model airplane that I have built in years.

It's a 1:72 Dornier Do 335.



In my mind, I think the camouflage color that is too dark can be a little lighter, but darker than the green. I also think that I need to work on the tail a little bit more when it comes to painting.

What do you guys think? Any room for improvement?

Regards,

Jared

 

[Pantherman]

Hi guys,

I figured it's time I ask a potentially difficult question.

First some context. It's been very hot here where I live. As a result, the paint that I bought for the model airplane I was building has been drying really fast. Same with the glue. I was actually really surprised. As a result, I was able to work on it a little bit faster than anticipated.

BEFORE I put on the decals, I wanted to show you all my progress. Please keep in mind, it's my first model airplane that I have built in years.

It's a 1:72 Dornier Do 335.

View attachment 102608View attachment 102610View attachment 102609View attachment 102611

In my mind, I think the camouflage color that is too dark can be a little lighter, but darker than the green. I also think that I need to work on the tail a little bit more when it comes to painting.

What do you guys think? Any room for improvement?

Regards,

Jared

I think that if you are brush painting your model's it would maybe be better to apply several thinned coats which would reduce the brush marks on the finished build. Pretty good for a first model though.

Maybe take a bit more time on your builds. I would expect to take 3-4 weeks on this model, that's doing a few hours a night say 4 nights a week. Pantherman

 

[urumomo]

3 to 4 weeks ??!

 

[Pantherman]

3 to 4 weeks ??!

That's allowing for nap time between fitting parts zzzzzzzzz. Pantherman

 

[the Baron]

I'll second Pantherman's tip, Jared. When brushing paints by hand, thinning is the key.

I use Tamiya acrylics, among other paints. I use them on metal toy soldiers. For many years, I applied them right out of the jar, without thinning, and I was never quite satisfied with the results. When I first started airbrushing, and used the Tamiya paints, I thinned them. And I read somewhere that Tamiya's acrylics are formulated for airbrushing and meant to be thinned. Whether that is true, I certainly got better results when I starting thinning them for handbrushing, as well as for airbrushing. Properly thinned, I can lay them down in coats as thin as if I airbrushed them. I will also apply multiple coats, brushing at 90 degrees to the previous coat, to help even out any brush strokes that might occur.

Besides Tamiya's acrylics, I thin my water-based acrylics by using a wet palette. That's a water-tight container, containing a sponge, and a thin piece of treated paper, permeable, as the actual palette. That keeps the paints an a consistent thinness.

I also use Testors enamels with thinning, and can apply thin coats.

I recommend practicing thinning the paints, and see how your results are.

Best regards,
Brad

 

[jnicholes]

Thanks so much for getting back. I appreciate it.

Sorry for the delayed response, I've been very busy. Aside from what I said about the paint colors I chose, I think you guys are right. I need to both slow down and enjoy the process, as well as thin the paints to make it look better.

Thanks again for the input.

Jared.