Ertl Cuda build

[Thereal9thdoctor]

So I got this kit from a friend at work who has had it for almost 20 years and never built it. Not really a car guy but what the heck. SO...

The kit.



The finished chassis, graciously painted by my GF yesterday while I finished working on the vinyl Brundlefly kit.

The body in process of priming. It was cast in yellow but I dunno if it'd look any good with just gloss slapped on bare plastic so decided to do it right.

And the interior with base coat, which may just be final coat. The seats will go in after I detail paint.

I also have to scratchbuilt a gearshift since it was lost before getting to me. It won't look like the kit part, but hopefully will suffice.

 

[Thereal9thdoctor]

Btw apologies for the poor mans paint booth. I will be getting a decent one before starting the Enterprise.

 

[Thereal9thdoctor]

So maybe someone can answer this... i read years ago(and I mean like almost 20 years ago) in Finescale Modeler that you had to sand the primer coat, color coat and clearcoat each with at least 3 fine grades of sandpaper to get a realistic looking finish on model car bodies. Is that true? I hope not, because I don't wanna deal with that kind of thing. I am willing to lightly sand once the color coat between coat, and same thing for the clearcoat, but all that sanding they recommend is just overkill to me.

 

[urumomo]

Nope .
You don't need all that sanding ,, if you do you should switch to better paint .

 

[Thereal9thdoctor]

Nope .
You don't need all that sanding ,, if you do you should switch to better paint .

Figured as much. The Tamiya primer goes down super smooth, and so far other than a tiny spotch the yellow is fine.

 

[Thereal9thdoctor]

Well... I just screwed up. Put the car together last night, and noticed a few spots in the finish that needed fixing.I had a hard time getting it together, so I decided to just lightly sand the spots and recoat this morning. Now I have used clearcoat gloss over clear parts before with no issue... but in this case it frosted the windows.

Any way I can save this?

 

[urumomo]

Acrylic ?

 

[Thereal9thdoctor]

Acrylic ?

No. Krylon spray gloss clear.

 

[urumomo]

I think that's an acrylic resin --- try carefully removing it from the windows with a swab or something wetted with 91% isopropyl alcohol .

 

[Thereal9thdoctor]

I think that's an acrylic resin --- try carefully removing it from the windows with a swab or something wetted with 91% isopropyl alcohol .

Its dry. Will that still work?

 

[urumomo]

Absolutely .

 

[urumomo]

Start rubbing in the middle of the windshield

 

[Thereal9thdoctor]

Absolutely .

Ok. Well, don't have the alcohol on hand but I have alcohol wipes for my safety glasses. Maybe that'll work.

 

[urumomo]

Probably --- they're usually around a 70% solution since that's ideal for anti-microbial purposes . 50 -70 % for that since you need a water component for that purpose .
It will just be less aggressive .

 

[Thereal9thdoctor]

Probably --- they're usually around a 70% solution since that's ideal for anti-microbial purposes . 50 -70 % for that since you need a water component for that purpose .
It will just be less aggressive .

Ok.

 

[Thereal9thdoctor]

Probably --- they're usually around a 70% solution since that's ideal for anti-microbial purposes . 50 -70 % for that since you need a water component for that purpose .
It will just be less aggressive .

Yeah, so far its doing nothing. Would thinner work?

 

[urumomo]

What exactly is the clear coat ?
Krylon what ?

 

[Thereal9thdoctor]

What exactly is the clear coat ?
Krylon what ?

My bad. Its Rustoleum.

Lightly sanding with wet 1200 grit paper seems to be doing some good.

 

[Thereal9thdoctor]

This is where its at now. Lightly sanding in a circular motion with 1200 paper, and polishing with a sanding stick that has a 2000-3000 grit side. I think if I had higher grits I could get this completely out.

 

[urumomo]

Yes , I look up the MSDS then call Rustoleum to make sure .
It's an alkyd ( enamel ) so a paint stripper safe for plastic or the sanding that you're already into .
The Krylon , or one of the Krylons is a lacquer acrylic so the isopropyl would work -- but definitely not on an alkyd resin .