I use all three, depending on the particular build. Individual link tracks, link and length tracks and even 'rubber band' tracks. They all have their pros and cons really.
Swanningabout said:
An interesting thing I always notice in the hobby magazines is the outstanding quality of the builds demonstrated there. I suppose in a way this only makes sense, because who wants to look at pictures of badly built models? And yet, from my own point of view, I do think sometimes they need to simplify things a bit. The people who contribute to these magazines have ideas of a "simple" or "quick" build that far outstrip how I would use those terms. Can I be the only one who builds to such a basic level? Is it possible there are a lot more like me who do not speak up? I often suspect the industry is leaving behind those like myself whose standards are not very ambitious.
It's not only would people
look at a magazine of badly built models, but would they
pay for it? Magazines are a costly business. It would be like using extremely overweight grannies to sell Victoria's Secret, or have an issue of Hot Rod Magazine dedicated to completely stock family sedans.
I think there are still many kits designed for the modeler who just wants to crack open a box, glue it up in a weekend and paint it strictly for fun. Those aren't the more modern kits for sure, as those are definitely aimed at the more 'advanced' builder but the market still holds those easier kits, you just may have to look harder. I'm pretty sure just about any Tamiya armor kit comes with rubber bands and they are all pretty easy builds compared to Bronco/AFV/Dragon etc.
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As far as mineral spirits attacking plastic, no way. I took a bit of sprue and placed it in a jar of mineral spirits while I worked at the bench, it came out just as it went in, absolutely no effect.
It will attack the glue though and while it may be due in part to the small joins, I think it many cases when it comes to tracks, it's that the primer and paint didn't get into all those tiny recesses. If the acrylic primer/paint coats completely seal in the glue, it wont be effected by mineral spirit type washes. If there are any areas where the primer/paint didn't cover, it will take no time at all to attack the glued joint.