That was a great explanation and thoughts on what to do. I would probably prefer to sell the whole "stash" at once unless there is one or two that are collectible and would bring more money. Is it true that the older models were better quality? Heard someone say "Don't make them like they used to!" Think I will collect a list of what is there and get them out of the cold barn and then make a decision. Thanks for the help!
You're very welcome, hope it helps!
To your question about quality, no, it's not generally true that older kits are of better quality. Generally, today's kits are more detailed, which reflects the changing tastes of modelers as we've all gotten older. Scale modeling took off in the 50s, as the first Baby Boomers were kids and plastic replaced wood and paper as the main materials for models. Kits of that vintage generally have softer details than the average kit produced more recently. Those older kits often have things like working features, too, because the boy who built a model of the P-51 his dad flew in the war, would take it out in the backyard and play with it as soon as he finished it.
As those kids got older, and stuck with modeling, their expectations rose, and you see better engineering over time. Again, that's a generalization, but that means it's generally true, even though there are exceptions.
By the mid- to late 60s, several companies did start producing models that had good detail right out of the box. It's funny, though, to look at modeling magazines from that time, and into the 70s, and read articles about kits released and the sensation they caused for achieving new levels of detail. And then mention those kits (eg, Revell's 1/32 P-40E) on a forum like HyperScale, and those guys all run them down as crap today.
Many of us of that vintage are nostalgic for that particular period, for the 50s, 60s, and 70s, when we were kids, and we spent our paper-route or lawnmowing money at the fabled Local Hobby Shop on Saturdays. But today really is more of a golden age for modelers, when we consider quality of product, the wide range of tools and supplies, and the much broader range of subjects available to us.
I'll give you a rule of thumb I apply, as a builder, not a kit collector (smart-aleck comments about my stash notwithstanding), when I look on the secondary market for a kit I want to build.
For a 1/48-scale single-engined WWII aircraft, my range is $10 or less. If I can get it for $5, I'm very happy. For a 1/48-scale multi-engined airplane, like Monogram's large bomber kits, my range is $20 or less. That's for a complete kit, in its box, with decals and instructions. I don't care about the box so much, but it's easier to store the kit till I can build it. I've bought kits in their boxes, but also bagged kits (the seller puts the sprues in a ziploc), with instructions or decals but also without.
Same goes for ships or armor, and some sci-fi subjects-1/700 waterline ship models, 1/35 scale tanks, car kits. $20 is where I start, and I go down-I try to get the seller to take less, if I can.
There's a particular sci-fi series called Maschinen Krieger, whose kits are not as numerous, and so, my range can go higher. But I'll still try to get them for as little as I can. That's what buyers do.
Anyway, yes, catalog what you have, then do some research, and see what comparable kits are going for.
An author who writes about antiques and collectibles once wrote that in the end, the price of any object on the secondary market is what the buyer and seller can agree upon at the time. I've found that to be true, whether it's model kits, or other things I collect, like beer steins, books, etc.
Best regards,
Brad