Painting section...HOW TO?!?!

[jonjon]

thanx!

 

[ExodusInside]

Two quick questions.... one - how do i strip old paint off plastic without damaging it? ( airbrushed a model, without reading the label that says NOT FOR AIRBRUSHING ), two - my dad says a few of you may or may not know the appropriate thinning ratio for vallejo paints because it's possible to use them for airbrushing ( said paint from first question )

thanks guys!

 

[Ian]

Striping with Simple Green works for me.

 

[Ravhin]

Those paints that say not for airbrushing can be airbrushed and I don't see there any reason to strip the paint. That warning is due to some safety regulation I believe.

As for the thinning ratios I'll let that for someone who has actually airbrushed with them.

 

[Elm City Hobbies]

Two quick questions.... one - how do i strip old paint off plastic without damaging it? ( airbrushed a model, without reading the label that says NOT FOR AIRBRUSHING ), two - my dad says a few of you may or may not know the appropriate thinning ratio for vallejo paints because it's possible to use them for airbrushing ( said paint from first question )

thanks guys!

OK, first off, Vallejo Model Air is designed to be used in the airbrush, they are pre-thinned, so it takes the guess work out of having to thin paint to airbrush.

Vallejo Model Color is more designed for hand brushing, but can be thinned to be airbrushed. Yes, some of the bottles do have the warning saying DO NOT AIRBRUSH, but it is only there because those paints will have a bit of Cadmium in them to help create the brilliant hue of the pigment.

The reason Vallejo has those warnings on the bottles, is because they have to have it if they want to sell the paint in the various countries that you will find Vallejo.

As Vallejo dealer, I talk to the guys at Vallejo fairly often (once a month or so) and have talked to them about these warnings, and they basically said what I posted above, that they have to put the warnings on them because of certain materials in the paint. However, there is such a small amount of it in the paint, that you would have to swim in a vat of the paint, and ingest massive amounts of the paint in order for the cadmium to have any ill effect. Something I am sure none of us is doing is swimming in a vat of paint, or adding it to our coffee.

So in the end, don't worry about it, if your kit is already painted with it using an airbrush, well congrats, no need to strip it off, continue on with your kit.

As far as thinning Vallejo Paint, as I said above, the Model Air, is pre-thinned, so no need to thin it, and if you do, literally, a drop or 2 of thinner in a color cup of paint is more than enough.

Thinning the Model Color line couldn't be easier with Vallejo's reformulated Airbrush thinner. 2 to 3 parts thinner to 1 part paint, and you are good to go, couldn't be easier.

The Model washes are just that, washes for your kits. You can use them with a brush to darken the recesses of your model's panel lines, or you can airbrush them on and the wash acts like a filter, they do work quite well from the little I have used the couple of samples I received from Vallejo. I have the entire line of Washes arriving Monday as well as the new expanded colors in the Model Air line.

 

[ExodusInside]

I probably should have went a little more in depth with it.

I airbrushed a few pieces after thinning the paint ( just regular Vallejo model paint, not the airbrush kind ) and it came out kinda clumped. I used a two part paint one part thinner ratio, and I didn't buy Vallejo thinner... just using the thinner I already had which is still acrylic thinner but I guess each company designs their own thinner for their own line so maybe that had something to do with it?? But for sure I'll have to strip and try again. Thanks tho guys, and Elm City, that was quite informative, I'll have to see if I can find a store around here that has the Vallejo airbrushing paints...

Thanks for all the input guys.

 

[Elm City Hobbies]

I probably should have went a little more in depth with it.

I airbrushed a few pieces after thinning the paint ( just regular Vallejo model paint, not the airbrush kind ) and it came out kinda clumped. I used a two part paint one part thinner ratio, and I didn't buy Vallejo thinner... just using the thinner I already had which is still acrylic thinner but I guess each company designs their own thinner for their own line so maybe that had something to do with it?? But for sure I'll have to strip and try again. Thanks tho guys, and Elm City, that was quite informative, I'll have to see if I can find a store around here that has the Vallejo airbrushing paints...

Thanks for all the input guys.

Yes, depends on the thinner. Not all acrylics are the same, you have stuff like Tamiya, and Gunze that are alcohol based, and others like Life Color (not sure what their base is, but is isn't alcohol I don't think), and Vallejo which is actually an acrylic, vinyl, resin mix. And if you try and use an alcohol based thinner to thin it out....it is going to clump and gum up. Real PITA if it does it in your airbrush because it is a pain to clean.

Nothing wrong with thinning Vallejo Model color to airbrush, just have to have the right thinner to do so. Lots on my website! LOL

 

[scaledale]

I have a number of different types of thinners for enamels, acrylics and lacquers and if I'm not sure what base a paint is I test it before doing anything with it. I put a drop of the paint in question in each of the thinners to see how it reacts. If it gums up in the enamel thinner then it's usually lacquer. No matter what, it gives me a good idea what is going to happen before I start to mix for the airbrush. A little paint in a lot of thinner has a stronger reaction than a little thinner in a lot of paint.

Dale

 

[netrangerx]

I built models for many years but have been out of it for a while. I have only ever used brushes and Testors enamel paints. I am working on a 1/72 Space Shuttle model that I have had in the box for years as my "comeback" project and want to paint it right. I am considering airbrushing and am looking for advice on what equipment is best for an AB newbie. Also, if I already have a compressor (the kind you use for nail guns) can it be used instead of buying a "hobby" compressor? Thanks.

Paul

 

[Elm City Hobbies]

Hey there Paul,

Yes, you can use a nail gun compressor for airbrushing, as long as you can crank the airpressure down to 15-20lbs, you should be alright.

You might need a couple of fittings to convert it to your airbrush hose, but otherwise it is good to go. Used one for years until I got tired of it scaring the crap out of me (and usually ruining a paint job or at the very least spilling paint) when it kicked on. They are loud!

 

[Drpepeprz]

Could someone make a thinning guide and pin it to this section? Or is it different for everyone?

 

[Elm City Hobbies]

Generally different for each line of paint.

Lots of factors go into it. How much air pressure you are running, size of the needle in your airbrush, the type of effect you are looking for.

For me and the paints I use, or have used.

Tamiya: 50/50 paint to thinner (using Tamiya's own thinner)

Vallejo: Model Color: 3 parts Vallejo AB Thinner to 1 part Vallejo Model Color paint.
Model Air: Should be good to go out of the bottle, but Vallejo recommends a couple of drops in your paint cup.

Testors Enamel: 50/50 with enamel thinner

Lifecolor: I have used, but only once, and don't really remember the thinning ration, seem to remember that 50/50 was too much using their thinner.

Humbrol Enamel: 50/50 with enamel thinner

Gunze Acrylics: 50/50 with acrylic thinner

That covers the basics, and for the lines I have used for general use at about average pressure (15-20psi). Finer spray control you need to drop your air pressure more and thin your paint out a bit more.

And of course, practice on an old model or piece of scrap to try out your own recipes.

 

[Drpepeprz]

Anyone uses acrylic on cars? or are laquers really the best?

 

[Elm City Hobbies]

Anyone uses acrylic on cars? or are laquers really the best?

I have done 2 cars with Vallejo.

http://public.fotki.com/ScottM/models/tamiya-mazda-rx-7-r1/

http://public.fotki.com/ScottM/models/model-king-darrell/

Works like a charm, but of course the Vallejo paints being mostly a Satin or Matt finish you do have to put a gloss varnish over the paint if you want some shine to it. Both of those above are glossed with just Future, however my next one I will be using Vallejo's Urethane Gloss to give it a try, which will be the funny car I have in the Shelf Queen group build.

Like any other paint going on, build up in layers.

 

[barneyadi]

Could someone point me in the direction of how to do the best paintbrush job, and the best brushes and paints to use?

 

[wjbrandel]

Personally I use a mix of paints: Army painter, testors, vallejo, and craft paints like americana and folk art. For brushes I actually use the multi pack brushes from various stores, I don't use the high end brushes because I tend to be hard on my brushes.

 

[scalebuilderchad]

I was recently introduced to Mr Leveling Thinner from Mr Hobby. I don't know exactly what this stuff is made of, but it is the most versitile chemical I have ever known of.

Mr Leveling thinners main purpose is to thin paints for airbrushing. The strange thing is it works on both acrylic and lacquer paints from Tamiya. It works on lacquers from Mr Hobby. It also works on Testors enamel paints.

And then to top it off, it is also a great paint stripper. I dunked an engine in the stuff and the paint came off with a toothbrush in 5 minutes.

 

[BTrekker]

I was recently introduced to Mr Leveling Thinner from Mr Hobby.

I keep hearing about it - but being on a budget, I just keep using my 'same-old, same-old'. Thins enamel, lacquer and acrylic paint, cleans my airbushes, even strips enamel, lacquer or acrylic paint from models. At $22 for a gallon from my local Menards, it's very budget friendly too.

 

[the Baron]

Could someone point me in the direction of how to do the best paintbrush job, and the best brushes and paints to use?

Regardless of the paint or brushes you use, the biggest tip I can offer you for hand-brushing is to thin your paints sufficiently. I can lay down coats as finely as if I airbrushed them, when I have thinned the paints sufficiently.

I paint figures, both in toy soldier style and in matte finish to go with my models. I use mostly water-based acrylics, such as Andrea, Vallejo Model Color, Lifecolor, and craft store brands Americana, Folk Art, Apple Barrel. I use a wet palette (Redgrass Games), which ensures a consistent thinness, and lets me keep any colors I've mixed, across several sessions.

I also use Tamiya's acrylics, which are alcohol-based. I can't use these with a wet palette. Instead, I keep a little jar of Tamiya's proprietary acrylic thinner, and either dip the brush in the thinner, then pick up the color from a palette (eg, the underside of the jar lid), or I pick up the color and dip the brush in the thinner, and then apply the color to the piece. I don't use any other additives, like levelers or retarders. I don't discourage them, I just find I don't need them.

I use a similar method to use enamels, except that I use mineral spirits as the thinner.

As far as brushes go, I do use natural fiber brushes, red sable, particularly on figures. Because when you paint a figure, you want to be able to paint fine lines at times. That means having a brush with a fine point, but also with a good-sized head to hold the paint. It's like a fountain pen with a fine nib. The nib delivers the ink precisely, and the bladder is the reservoir of ink. Same thing with the brush, and water-based acrylics (or oils). I had to learn this over time. I started with small brushes, because I thought that would let me paint fine details With water-based acrylics, the amount of paint is so small that it dries before it his the target. So I watched my fellow figure painters and noticed the brushes they use. A 0 or 1 round is good for that precision, and brushes made of natural fibers, properly cared for, hold their shape the longest. Red sable in particular is judged the best for this. The one I'm using now is about 10 years old. After a session, I use a brush soap to clean the remnants off, and to restore the natural oils to the fibers. Just like using shaving cream with lanolin to treat a baseball glove.

With enamels, I find that I can use that small brush, with a small head and fine point, like a 00, because the paint stays wet.

Larger brushes are good for painting larger areas, of course, and in that case, I don't necessarily use my sables. Though I still like natural fiber brushes for that job, just personal preference.

Again, the primary thing is to thin the paint properly. If you thin your paints properly, then painting them by hand is easy.

Hope that helps!

 

[the Baron]

Oh, and as far as thinners go, I wouldn't recommend using lacquer thinner when hand-brushing, because it is very hot and can dissolve any paint you already have laid down on a piece. I know, I have tried it.
The one exception that I have seen is among Maschinen Krieger modelers. Many use a technique, painting lacquers by hand. This is how the Japanese modelers do it, and it spread to Western fans of the subject. Taking advantage of the lacquer thinner's "hotness", they apply lacquers by hand, and achieve a blending of colors-along the edge between 2 colors, say-similar to what painters using oils can do, or painters using acrylics and building up layers. Each application of a color dissolves the color underneath and allows blending. It's a cool technique, but I wouldn't use it painting a crew member of an AFV, for example.