This may be a stupid question, but are all Tamiya rattle can paints ( paints, primer, clear coat ) lacqers? I have been trying to fully understand what works with what with regard to priming, painting and sealing and as best as I can tell, it is basically a case by case basis unless you stick with one brand. But in sticking with one brand, for instance Tamiya, as I understand, most of the mini jars are acrylics ( X and XF ), a few mini jars are lacquer ( LP ) and the rattle cans are lacquer? I am so confused. I just want to make sure I don't mess up an otherwise nice paint job but mixing the incorrect primer/paint/clear coat.
Potential Stupid Question…
- Thread starter TTJames
- Start date
Littlemarten
Active Member
- Joined
- Dec 1, 2024
- Messages
- 130
Last I knew, Tamiya acrylics use an alcohol solvent system, but they are polymer paints, not true lacquers. They cure: forming a cross-linked polymeric coating. Lacquers do not cure, they only dry.
The confusion comes from the fact that Tamiya acrylics are readily re-dissolved by isopropyl alcohol and other, similar solvents like nitrocellulose. So they behave like lacquer in that respect. However, the redissolved coating, unlike a lacquer, will not form a proper film on the surface. If the solvent used in reapplication of the dissolved former coating is aggressive to plastic, it will appear to form a film, but what is really happening is that it is partially dissolving the surface to which it is applied. This will produce a very permanent color.
The LP designation does indicate a true lacquer. As I've never used their rattle cans, I can't say what they are, but if they are lacquers, it should say so.
The confusion comes from the fact that Tamiya acrylics are readily re-dissolved by isopropyl alcohol and other, similar solvents like nitrocellulose. So they behave like lacquer in that respect. However, the redissolved coating, unlike a lacquer, will not form a proper film on the surface. If the solvent used in reapplication of the dissolved former coating is aggressive to plastic, it will appear to form a film, but what is really happening is that it is partially dissolving the surface to which it is applied. This will produce a very permanent color.
The LP designation does indicate a true lacquer. As I've never used their rattle cans, I can't say what they are, but if they are lacquers, it should say so.
I'll bet by now you're even more confused. I use Tamia rattle cans for a few colors but mainly primer and clear coat. I just act like all the Tamia rattle cans are lacquer paints which they pretty much are in my book because they bite into the plastic really good. And I use Tamia X and XF along with their little small bottles of LP paint. They are all compatible together and I've used them in conjunction with Mr color and I've even used them and then sprayed enamel through my airbrush with no problems. And then realize that didn't come out to good color wise so I sprayed XF paint on top of the enamel and it was all good. I have to admit I use Mr color leveling thinner with everything I run through my airbrush and that stuff is just great. If you don't have it just use what's compatible. X20a or lacquer thinner or 90% alcohol and stay away from the Tamia spray paint meant for radio control car bodies
Similar threads
