Tamiya paint retarded

[papaof2]

Was watching a Barbados Rex video. He recommended adding up to 10% retarded to the paint when brushing.
As I brush and airbrush my models would it hurt to add 10% retarder when I open a new bottle, and would it affect airbrushing. I use Mr Color leveling thinner 50/50 when airbrushing.

 

[urumomo]

Propylene glycol retarder extends acrylic dry-time so that's the benefit when brush painting , more time to get the paint into place and for it to level out and not show brush marks .
If you're experiencing air-brush " dry-tip " issues then retarder definitely helps , but add only as necessary ; it doesn't take much .
Airbrush thinners for acrylics almost always include propylene glycol in the mix .

 

[papaof2]

Thanks urumomo for responding. I guess my real question would be if I added retarded to each new bottle when first opened would it have a negative effect when airbrushing.

 

[urumomo]

It definitely could .
You can mix up paint that will take days to cure real easy .

I'd experiment with it so you have a feel of how it affects the paints you're using in that environment .

 

[BlackSheepTwoOneFour]

Ok, let's dummy the technical BS down for better understanding. Chemicals in thinners, paints, etc.. It's all irrelevant. It's all about experimenting what works and what doesn't work. Every paint brand reacts differently. Mr. Color paints DO NOT play nice with lacquer thinner. Use their brand thinner instead. However… Gunze doesn't react using lacquer thinner at all.

Lacquer thinner doesn't play nice with PollyScale and Aeromaster paints as well.

Mission Models paints can be airbrushed straight out of the bottle. Clean up with their thinner or water.

I hand brush Tamiya acrylic and lacquers straight out of the bottle with no issues. I don't use any retarder of any kind, period.

If I need to thin down Tamiya for handbrushing, I'll use their thinner or hardware store lacquer thinner. I use a lacquer thinner for airbrushing with no issues at all. Maybe an occasional dry tip but that's remedied easily with a Q-tip soaked in lacquer thinner to moisten the tip. Easy peasy…..

 

[Jim62]

First, you didn't mention if you are even having any problems with your current practice of a 50/50 paint to thinner mix. If you are not and you just want to do what someone on Youtube said you should do, ignore it and keep doing what you are doing. I use Tamiya's paint and thinner and my mixes are typically 50/50 when I spray. When I brush, I don't brush straight out of the bottle. I mix a couple drops of paint with a drop of retarder then brush it on. Nothing I brush paint is large, just small parts and touch up on anything that needs it. I personally would not add any chemicals into a bottle of paint and risk it ruining the paint. Good luck with whatever you try.

 

[the Baron]

"Retarder". Gotta watch those typeahead suggestions.

I wouldn't add it to the whole bottle but add it as necessary to the batch, that is, the cup, when airbrushing. The necessity may vary by location, too, that is, the atmospheric conditions. Here in SE PA, I never use any retarder with any paints, whether airbrushing or brushing by hand. It's just not necessary for me. But in another part of the country, or in another part of the world, different altitudes, weather, etc, your mileage may vary.

 

[BlackSheepTwoOneFour]

First, you didn't mention if you are even having any problems with your current practice of a 50/50 paint to thinner mix. If you are not and you just want to do what someone on Youtube said you should do, ignore it and keep doing what you are doing. I use Tamiya's paint and thinner and my mixes are typically 50/50 when I spray. When I brush, I don't brush straight out of the bottle. I mix a couple drops of paint with a drop of retarder then brush it on. Nothing I brush paint is large, just small parts and touch up on anything that needs it. I personally would not add any chemicals into a bottle of paint and risk it ruining the paint. Good luck with whatever you try.

No, I'm not having issues with my methods handbrushing and airbrushing. I know what works for me by trial and error for the last 50 years. You learn from mistakes.
Like Baron mentioned he lives in the Northeast as I do (New York State) and I don't see a need for retarder myself. For airbrushing, I'll add thinner until I get the consistency of skim milk. There's no need for retarder.

When handbrushing, which I don't brush paint is large either but small parts or sections. I'll scoop out a small amount in my paint palette circle pot and thinner in next circle pot. If paint is thick I'll dip my brush in thinner then to paint to thin a tiny bit. Never had issues in my own method.

Let me make one thing clear… as I've already mentioned; I've been building model kits for over 50 years now. I'm by no means an amateur hobbyists. Also, I NEVER said I add chemicals to a bottle of paint! I'm not that stupid.

I don't know where you assume I do but never assume anything…. you only make an ASS out of U and ME.

Have a blessed day…BRUH !!! ROFLMAO!!

 

[Jim62]

No, I'm not having issues with my methods handbrushing and airbrushing. I know what works for me by trial and error for the last 50 years. You learn from mistakes.
Like Baron mentioned he lives in the Northeast as I do (New York State) and I don't see a need for retarder myself. For airbrushing, I'll add thinner until I get the consistency of skim milk. There's no need for retarder.

When handbrushing, which I don't brush paint is large either but small parts or sections. I'll scoop out a small amount in my paint palette circle pot and thinner in next circle pot. If paint is thick I'll dip my brush in thinner then to paint to thin a tiny bit. Never had issues in my own method.

Let me make one thing clear… as I've already mentioned; I've been building model kits for over 50 years now. I'm by no means an amateur hobbyists. Also, I NEVER said I add chemicals to a bottle of paint! I'm not that stupid.

I don't know where you assume I do but never assume anything…. you only make an ASS out of U and ME.

Have a blessed day…BRUH !!! ROFLMAO!!

I was not replying to anything you said. I was replying to papaof2 and just sharing what I do. I Don't know why you think I was replying to you, nor was I trying to contradict you. As you can see in my post I was letting him know that if he wasn't having any issues and was just wanting to try something he saw on youtube, he shouldn't worry about it. As you can see from his post, he never mentioned he was having a problem. Perhaps you are the one assuming. You have a blessed day as well.

 

[BlackSheepTwoOneFour]

To prove my point why I use lacquer thinner and never any retarder, or leveling / flow improver. Lacquer thinner cleans brushes better than Most hobby thinner, even Tamiya thinner.

Test and see for yourself. Clean your brush using Testors thinner, Tamiya thinner, etc… It doesn't completely clean your brush, even residual paint deep inside the bristles. Now take that "clean" brush and dip it in your jar of lacquer thinner. It will break away residual paint within your brush bristles; even dried brushes.

Granted, some hobby brand paints in my stash don't play nice with lacquer thinner - PollyScale, Aeromaster, Mission Models, & Mr. Color.

 

[janinej]

Thanks urumomo for responding. I guess my real question would be if I added retarded to each new bottle when first opened would it have a negative effect when airbrushing.

Never be afraid to mix paints and trial and error. Worse case you just paint over it again. JJ.

 

[Motoretrolia]

While I know this is a older thread, I thought I'd add, I've had some issues with Tamiya Acrylic when brush painting. It initially seems OK in consistency, that said, It seems to want to dry very quickly, leaving brush marks unless I finish fast. What's strange is color seems to affect the end result and thickness. These are well stirred, fresh paints. I was at the shop yesterday although they stated they have not been able to obtain retarder in months. I had planned to pick up a bottle and experiment a bit to find a better application.

 

[urumomo]

" It seems to want to dry very quickly, "
Those are solvent based acrylics so the vehicle is chiefly alcohols which evaporate far faster than water in the water based acrylics like Vallejo .

" color seems to affect the end result and thickness "
The thickness of the paint film or the opacity of the color ?

You can buy a lifetime supply of retarder off Amazon , just search for propylene glycol .
Art supply stores too , of course .

 

[Motoretrolia]

" It seems to want to dry very quickly, "
Those are solvent based acrylics so the vehicle is chiefly alcohols which evaporate far faster than water in the water based acrylics like Vallejo .

" color seems to affect the end result and thickness "
The thickness of the paint film or the opacity of the color ?

You can buy a lifetime supply of retarder off Amazon , just search for propylene glycol .
Art supply stores too , of course .

 

[Motoretrolia]

The alcohol certainly explains the accelerated drying time. Regarding thickness, opacity is my guess although the paint does seems to fill the brush and flow out differently depending on color.
Isn't propylene glycol a ingredient for Anti-freeze? Thanks for the information. G.

 

[urumomo]

Yes , it is used in antifreeze .
It is the non-toxic alternative to ethylene glycol .

 

[BlackSheepTwoOneFour]

A common complaint amongst hobbyists that Tamiya acrylics isn't great for handbrushing. I've used Tamiya acrylics (and lacquers) for handbrushing with no issues. No, I never use a retarder regardless of paint brand. I guess I've learned how to tame different brands of paint thru trial and error.

 

[Motoretrolia]

A common complaint amongst hobbyists that Tamiya acrylics isn't great for handbrushing. I've used Tamiya acrylics (and lacquers) for handbrushing with no issues. No, I never use a retarder regardless of paint brand. I guess I've learned how to tame different brands of paint thru trial and error.

As I mentioned, it seems color plays a role in thickness and smooth brush application. I'm certainly no expert, my success has more to do with the planets lining up and how much coffee I've had. I do feel the old Testors Model Master Acrylics seemed to work better for me and I never thinned those.

 

[Edbert]

I have a lot of Testors "Model Masters" left from the medieval times, but mine are all enamel not acrylic.



I've said elsewhere that I feel like a noobie, these modern (21st century) acrylics are like voodoo to me.

 

[BlackSheepTwoOneFour]

Heh… I'll be happy to take all your Testors Model Master off your hands. I have them in both enamels and acrylics. Love'em! Rustoleum thinks they're not profitable. BS… they pissed off the hobby world with their announcement to discontinue the paint line.