Just thought I'd provide a report about the process.
I'm not convinced this is the best method, albeit one of the easiest. Ease is the best selling point there is looking back on it. Here's some information that I thought was significant.
I was wary of using too much heat, started at the lowest setting and basically saw nothing happen until I got near to 240-250 degrees. The knob is not that accurate and there were no marks between 200 and 250.
I heard a couple of terrifying popping sounds, or like a cracking sound. Nothing fell off and no seams opened up, but "something" was happening and I fear I might see it a year from now. In the future I'll start with the heat at about 250 so the aircraft will not have to sit there so long absorbing the heat.
Tail draggers will need to have the rear lifted early. I used a cotton swab to rest the rear tire on while the larger front ones flattened. This is because of the different in mass, small and thin melts before large and thick.
Nose wheel aircraft have the opposite issue. You'd think it would do the same thing, smaller nose wheels in general, but it did not. My assessment is that there was extra weight on the rears, this requires me to press down on the fronts a little bit. Be careful doing this, front-gear is sometimes fragile. Looking at you F-16!
I will continue using this method, better than the iron with wax paper that I used to do. Being able to set all wheels on the heat at the same time makes it simple to have uniform location of the flat spots.