German Sturmgeschutz IV

I cannot believe I've been up all night working on this. It's now 6:30 in the morning! o_O
Man time flies by!
Anyway, I'm getting closer to weathering.
 

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GEG64 said:
Trying out my new decal tray.
I think I paid around $11.00 for it from Amazon.
Then it never came and I contacted the seller twice and never heard from them. So, I ordered another one from ebay. And as soon as the ebay shipped the Amazon order came in.
So now I have 2.
Click to expand...
Forgive me but I've never heard of a decal tray. The name says what it is but what is the purpose of it when it comes to doing decals? My interest is tweaked.
 
Jim62 said:
Forgive me but I've never heard of a decal tray. The name says what it is but what is the purpose of it when it comes to doing decals? My interest is tweaked.
Click to expand...
Mine too. Just had a look on YouTube and decided to order one.
Pantherman
 

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Just out of curiosity, where did you see that the fire extinguisher should be painted red? I have seen this done on more than one German AFV model, but when I did my research on it apparently this is not correct as most extinguishers were painted the same colour as the vehicle.
Not trying to pin prick, just curious. Personally, I actually prefer them the colour you have painted.

Phil
 
Jim62 said:
Forgive me but I've never heard of a decal tray. The name says what it is but what is the purpose of it when it comes to doing decals? My interest is tweaked.
Click to expand...
It works great (thumbs up). Even on very small decals.
I did a test on a small decal, it did slip through the slats but still easy to retrieve.
I recommend it.
 
Phil57 said:
Just out of curiosity, where did you see that the fire extinguisher should be painted red? I have seen this done on more than one German AFV model, but when I did my research on it apparently this is not correct as most extinguishers were painted the same colour as the vehicle.
Not trying to pin prick, just curious. Personally, I actually prefer them the colour you have painted.

Phil
Click to expand...
I see that. Thanks brother. It's easy enough to pop off and give it a covering of Dunkel gelb.
 
I figured to try a different way to achieve warped, damaged, and bent steel. Instead of a lighter (which can cause owies) I decided that my coffee warmer dock (which I use to warm water for decals) could work. For this experiment I used the steel shields from my current build. I placed the edge I wanted to bend on the plate and began rocking the edge/corner back and forth. Then I took tweezers to further bend it into the desired shape. And BINGO!
 

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GEG64 said:
I figured to try a different way to achieve warped, damaged, and bent steel. Instead of a lighter (which can cause owies) I decided that my coffee warmer dock (which I use to warm water for decals) could work. For this experiment I used the steel shields from my current build. I placed the edge I wanted to bend on the plate and began rocking the edge/corner back and forth. Then I took tweezers to further bend it into the desired shape. And BINGO!
Click to expand...
I like it, ingenious.
Pantherman
 
After you get them where you want them I recommend sanding the visible edges down to be more in scale .
Schurzen was 5 mm if I remember correctly so .14 mm in 1/35 .
Feathered into the stock thickness makes the illusion work even on the inside .
 
urumomo said:
After you get them where you want them I recommend sanding the visible edges down to be more in scale .
Schurzen was 5 mm if I remember correctly so .14 mm in 1/35 .
Feathered into the stock thickness makes the illusion work even on the inside .
Click to expand...
5mm‽ that is so thin. Isn't that about ³/¹⁶" ?
 
So far so good.
One minor hiccup; the armor plate racks were on opposite sides, easy peezy lemon squeezey.
Gun is taped and hatch is closed for winter camo paint.
 

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If you can't get a spare part from Tamiya, you can make a copy of one of the existing wheels using Oyumaru mold material that you stick in boiling water along with some miliput or green stuff

Since you really just need to open face side it is very easy. Boil some water, drop the Oyumaru in it for 30 seconds or so, squish it around an existing part and let it cool

mix i[ some milliput or green stuff and press it into the mold. Let it dry and viola, you've got a copy of your part

There are lots of videos on using Oyumaru

I did it for this tiger sprocket part on my 1/72 Y-Wing for example

1679409792801.png


I have even done two part molds with the Oyumaru stuff to make copies of pilots or more complex parts, but those are a bit harder to do
 
blakeh1 said:
If you can't get a spare part from Tamiya, you can make a copy of one of the existing wheels using Oyumaru mold material that you stick in boiling water along with some miliput or green stuff

Since you really just need to open face side it is very easy. Boil some water, drop the Oyumaru in it for 30 seconds or so, squish it around an existing part and let it cool

mix i[ some milliput or green stuff and press it into the mold. Let it dry and viola, you've got a copy of your part

There are lots of videos on using Oyumaru

I did it for this tiger sprocket part on my 1/72 Y-Wing for example

View attachment 98623


I have even done two part molds with the Oyumaru stuff to make copies of pilots or more complex parts, but those are a bit harder to do
Click to expand...
I dont think I'm at such an advanced level Blake, but that is awesome work!

I got an email yesterday.Tamiya is sending the wheel. :)

Curious to see how Oyumaru works. I'll be watching YouTube later today.

Thank you.
 
Weren't there any spare road wheels in the kit? Not trying to be a smart-aleck-I'm thinking of the pair of spares that were carried in a rack on the hull.
 
Primary camo is on. Next hairspray and winter camo.
 

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