ready to throw away the testors "orange tube"

[RocketRanger]

I found that tube glue is very good to use in very specific situations.
It's appropriate for parts that need to be glued together that have small available bonding surfaces that are close to other parts that can't get glue on them.
This would include tight spaces like attaching parts near rotating prop pins or clear parts that need to be glued that can't risk getting bonded or glazed by flowing liquid cement.
Make sure the bonding surfaces are bare plastic (no paint) and apply a very small drop of glue from the tube tip to a toothpick and apply it by rubbing a small amount of cement exactly where needed.
Make sure to use the minimal amount of glue that will not ooze out between the bonding surfaces of the parts being glued after they are pressed together.
In fact, I used tube glue yesterday on some parts around rotating prop pins where liquid cement would have certainly flowed into the moving parts and immobilized them.
I've used the little yellow Humbrol tubes of glue that came with Airfix Starter and Gift Sets and the Revell Contacta gel glue in the blue tube.
For some weird reason, I like the Revell tube glue although it's more "stringy" than the Humbrol tube glue which I also use.
The selection usually comes down to whichever one I find first when I need to use it.
And don't forget, tube glue just smells so darn delicious!

 

[OldManModeller]

I use them all. Testors tube glue, Testors liquid, Tamiya extra thin and Tamiya basic cement glue. I have some Testors liquid glue (3507) in the nifty black bottle too. And the cheapest CA glue (Super Glue from the dollar store) that I can find for photo etched stuff. Each have their usefulness for kit building.

I used Zap brand CA glue many years ago for RC stuff but I haven't built an RC plane for years since my dad passed away.

If I want a slow dry easily adjustable glue, I still use the Testors tube glue. Such as when putting AFV upper and lowers together and structural parts that can't be seen. I use my old business cards and squirt some onto them and a toothpick to apply it to the parts.

Back in 'the day', think 1970's, tube glue was all that we had. I built some pretty spider webby kits back then but with time you learn to apply it sparingly. With experience and toothpick application kits can and did and do come out well.

Today's modelers have it good. Especially with Tamiya Extra Thin. The capillary action of that glue is amazing. It dry's fast too. Almost too fast sometimes.

 

[OldManModeller]

I found that tube glue is very good to use in very specific situations.
It's appropriate for parts that need to be glued together that have small available bonding surfaces that are close to other parts that can't get glue on them.
This would include tight spaces like attaching parts near rotating prop pins or clear parts that need to be glued that can't risk getting bonded or glazed by flowing liquid cement.
Make sure the bonding surfaces are bare plastic (no paint) and apply a very small drop of glue from the tube tip to a toothpick and apply it by rubbing a small amount of cement exactly where needed.
Make sure to use the minimal amount of glue that will not ooze out between the bonding surfaces of the parts being glued after they are pressed together.
In fact, I used tube glue yesterday on some parts around rotating prop pins where liquid cement would have certainly flowed into the moving parts and immobilized them.
I've used the little yellow Humbrol tubes of glue that came with Airfix Starter and Gift Sets and the Revell Contacta gel glue in the blue tube.
For some weird reason, I like the Revell tube glue although it's more "stringy" than the Humbrol tube glue which I also use.
The selection usually comes down to whichever one I find first when I need to use it.
And don't forget, tube glue just smells so darn delicious!

Yep. I agree 100 percent... except the glue smell part at the end.

 

[scalebuilderchad]

Like others have said, you should have a few different glues on your bench because they all have their strengths (and weaknesses).

For bare plastics with no paint or chrome on them I have two main glues. When the parts fit really well together and there is not a gap I use Tamiya Thin with the green cap. If there is some gap or I need the glue to be thicker so I can rely on the glue to kind of help hold the part in position, I use the Tamiya glue with the orange cap. They both have brushes in the cap for easy application.

If a part has paint on it and I don't want to be bothered with removing the paint, I have Revell Contacta Professional. It comes in a blue container with a needle point applicator like the old Model Master glue did. And to be honest it smells and acts just like the old Model Master glue. It is probably the same stuff and it works great when you are gluing painted parts.

Then I have 3 different CA or super glues.

I have thin CA glue when the parts fit together very well, or I need it to cure fast.

I have the gold CA glue for general purpose tasks. And I use this for gluing clear parts because if you put it on a card it gases out fast and then you can use it on clear parts CAREFULLY and it won't fog them.

Thick CA glue. As you can imaging, I use this to glue parts together that don't fit well, or if I need some strength in the joint. I also use this thick stuff to fill seams and holes when I am doing body work on a car model. I use it as a body filler because it cures quick and is sandable.

And then finally I have started using clear UV curable resin a bit in my builds. This stuff is great. You have an hour or more to work with it because it doesn't dry out. It doesn't cure until you hit it with a UV light. And once you cure it that stuff sticks to anything and it sticks GOOD. The only weakness I have found it it doesn't cure 100% hard and sandable or paintable. But that could just be the resin I bought. And because of this I can't use it anywhere that it will be visible on the finished product.

I also have Elmers glue for when I do flocking.

And I have JB Weld for the occaisonal times when I need to glue metal together.