Gorilla Glue Superglue on painted surfaces

STARMAKER.REBEL

STARMAKER.REBEL

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I find that cementing parts together that have been painted before cementing don't stick together well. MR Cement doesn't stick well on painted and neither does the Tube of CEMENT that I can't seem to find in the abyss of my bedroom. I'm using Gorilla Superglue and that works well on painted parts. My bottle is almost empty though.

Gorillahelicopter.png
 
To use most model cements, you have to scrape the paint off where the glue is to go. This is relatively easy for things like fuselage mating surfaces, but can be quite hard for small detail parts. Some amount of touching up is usually required, too.

This is why I prefer to build and paint the inside parts of an aircraft model completely, then glue the fuselage parts together, mask off any clear bits, and only then finish the rest of the model and paint the outside.
 
My new problem is that I have too much Pencil graphite on the top Half of the Helicopter. I tried using erasers and they don't work and just foul-up the paint. It looks horrible now...

Gorillahelicopter.png
 
Okay... I found out that if you rub really hard on the pencil graphite with your thumb the graphite comes off. I'm not saying to try this with cemented parts! It works well with Gorilla Glue Superglue but you have to use a tremendous amount of force with your thumb and Cement might not be strong enough. The problem I have now is the superglue leaves bad marks on the joint. I will circle what I mean in these photos. (This is my first time useing pencil to outline the panels. Is there a way to make the lines deeper after painting them?)

Thanks for your HELP!!!

Gorillahelicopter.png

Gorillahelicopter002.png

Gorillahelicopter003.png
 
When I paint parts before gluing I use liquid mask on the areas that will be glued. Paint the part and remove the liquid mask. Best way to prevent a glue/paint mess. You can scrape it off but then you risk scraping the paint you don't want removed.
 
Rubbing with a moist thumb will remove graphite quite well from smooth surfaces, like bare plastic or (semi-)gloss paint.
 
Jakko said:
Rubbing with a moist thumb will remove graphite quite well from smooth surfaces, like bare plastic or (semi-)gloss paint.
Click to expand...
When I saw the video where someone was using a pencil in the grooves between the panels I thought they used a coat of paint over the pencil. That didn't word out so well, Is
Acrylic Varnish Matt going to be a problem painted with a paintbrush?

I want the acrylic Varnish to be completely dull over the pencil shading. I think I want to try using shiny pencil over the things that get opened regularly though.
 
I don't suspect it will be a problem, but you can always just give it a shot by painting either a spare part or a bit of sprue the way you've got in mind. If that works, you know you can use the method on the model, too.

If you want some of the pencilled stuff to be matt and others shiny, you'll probably need to use the pencil twice: before and after the matt varnish.
 
If you want to use graphite, an alternative to using a pencil to apply it is to apply the graphite powdered. You can rub the pencil on a piece of finer-grit sandpaper, or buy a tube of powdered graphite at the hardware store. It's used as a dry lubricant.
You can use an old toothbrush to apply the power to the model. That might give a little more precision, too. It's like applying powdered chalk pastels.
 
I have found Gorrila Super Glue Gel to be a savior. Squirt a tiny bit out onto a scrap piece of paper ot tag board, with a pin get a tiny bit onto the tip and apply where needed.
Excellent for setting non-complient parts painted or not.
 
STARMAKER.REBEL said:
When I saw the video where someone was using a pencil in the grooves between the panels I thought they used a coat of paint over the pencil. That didn't word out so well, Is
Acrylic Varnish Matt going to be a problem painted with a paintbrush?

I want the acrylic Varnish to be completely dull over the pencil shading. I think I want to try using shiny pencil over the things that get opened regularly though.
Click to expand...
Pencil is essentially graphite and clay. Both are very fine, platy materials, and adhere mainly by something called electrostatic bonding—they don't really bond to a surface, and worse, they interfere with the bond of other materials. I recommend applying the pencil to panel lines after assembly, then a thinned coat of flat or gloss clear (if applying with a brush.)

Personally, I prefer to finish the model after assembly.
 
STARMAKER.REBEL said:
Okay... I found out that if you rub really hard on the pencil graphite with your thumb the graphite comes off. I'm not saying to try this with cemented parts! It works well with Gorilla Glue Superglue but you have to use a tremendous amount of force with your thumb and Cement might not be strong enough. The problem I have now is the superglue leaves bad marks on the joint. I will circle what I mean in these photos. (This is my first time useing pencil to outline the panels. Is there a way to make the lines deeper after painting them?)

Thanks for your HELP!!!

View attachment 130716

View attachment 130717

View attachment 130718
Click to expand...
Does the CA (superglue) you are using normally turn white? Most such glues are moisture cured, and excess moisture (high humidity) makes them turn white.

I prefer to use solvent "cement" for most long seams. To use CA for your application, I use an old style drafting pen: https://thumbs.dreamstime.com/b/ruling-pen-vintage-classic-drafting-drawing-tool-143532662.jpg You can still find them, often used by artists to apply liquid mask to paper. Just dip the tips in acetone (or commercial nail polish remover) between uses to remove the cured CA.
 
Littlemarten said:
Pencil is essentially graphite and clay. Both are very fine, platy materials, and adhere mainly by something called electrostatic bonding—they don't really bond to a surface, and worse, they interfere with the bond of other materials. I recommend applying the pencil to panel lines after assembly, then a thinned coat of flat or gloss clear (if applying with a brush.)

Personally, I prefer to finish the model after assembly.
Click to expand...
COOL! That's exactly what I'm doing. If you paint over pencil the Pencil doesn't show through. I haven't done it yet but I was going to try painting over the pencil with a MATT Varnish.
 
Littlemarten said:
Does the CA (superglue) you are using normally turn white? Most such glues are moisture cured, and excess moisture (high humidity) makes them turn white.

I prefer to use solvent "cement" for most long seams. To use CA for your application, I use an old style drafting pen: https://thumbs.dreamstime.com/b/ruling-pen-vintage-classic-drafting-drawing-tool-143532662.jpg You can still find them, often used by artists to apply liquid mask to paper. Just dip the tips in acetone (or commercial nail polish remover) between uses to remove the cured CA.
Click to expand...
I bought these for $15.00

Drawing pencils
 
STARMAKER.REBEL said:
COOL! That's exactly what I'm doing. If you paint over pencil the Pencil doesn't show through. I haven't done it yet but I was going to try painting over the pencil with a MATT Varnish.
Click to expand...
Applying pencil to a model surface is essentially applying a dry pigment.

I get the impression you are brush painting. If so, be sure to thin the clear matte beforehand. If necessary, apply a second coat after it has cured if needed. This is to keep the thick coating and brush from pulling any loose pencil off the surface.

Another thing to try is to paint the surface with clear matte, then apply the pencil. The rougher surface of the clear matte will hold the pencil pigment better than the underlying paint:

  1. Paint base color
  2. Paint clear matte
  3. Apply pencil
  4. Overcoat if necessary.
 
Littlemarten said:
Applying pencil to a model surface is essentially applying a dry pigment.

I get the impression you are brush painting. If so, be sure to thin the clear matte beforehand. If necessary, apply a second coat after it has cured if needed. This is to keep the thick coating and brush from pulling any loose pencil off the surface.

Another thing to try is to paint the surface with clear matte, then apply the pencil. The rougher surface of the clear matte will hold the pencil pigment better than the underlying paint:

  1. Paint base color
  2. Paint clear matte
  3. Apply pencil
  4. Overcoat if necessary.
Click to expand...

Okay, Thanks! I saw pencil marks on a video and just tried applying the graphite. I didn't know what I was doing.

graphite005.png
 
STARMAKER.REBEL said:
Littlemarten, Did you mention thinning the varnish? I don't remember you saying what to thin it with.
Click to expand...
What brand of clear coats are you using? Many will tell you what solvent to use. My primary gloss clear coat is Holloway House Quick Shine™ My favorite flat, or matte clear, is Vallejo™. If the bottle instructions don't indicate what solvent to use, let me know. There's a way to figure it out.;)
 
Littlemarten said:
What brand of clear coats are you using? Many will tell you what solvent to use. My primary gloss clear coat is Holloway House Quick Shine™ My favorite flat, or matte clear, is Vallejo™. If the bottle instructions don't indicate what solvent to use, let me know. There's a way to figure it out.;)
Click to expand...
Thanks. I'm using AK Matt Varnish

AK Matt Varnish
 

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