I've purchased a small bottle of Tamiya LP9 (lacquer-clear-gloss) for an F-1 project I am doing. I do not intend to wash or panel-line it, just polish the clear for the car.
I only bring this up because I'm thinking that a fully-cured lacquer coating will be impervious to white spirits, is that a sound theory? Is the floor polish a good choice for protecting the color-coat from enamels/oils? I know lots of people "dipped" their clear bits in it, or at least used to.
Having been an oil-painter back in the day, I was wondering about using linseed oil for washes. The oil is not a solvent, at least not a strong one. But I'm not a fan of having a 10-20 day drying time though.
Here's the real problem: common names for organic chemicals, e.g., "white spirits" generally say little about their actual composition. Every time such a question comes up about a common chemical name, I have to look up what it is, and sometimes
where it is. Since you use the term white spirits, you are probably from AU, UK, or Ireland. But I digress.
You are correct. Tamiya generally uses an alcohol solvent system, which means their coatings are usually impervious to white spirits, mineral spirits, mineral turpentine, turpentine substitute, petroleum spirits, Stoddard solvent, and solvent naptha—all of which are common names in various places for essentially the same thing.
I recommend you use the odorless type (odorless mineral spirits, and many other names.) It's a purer form and less toxic. Do note, however, if you intend to apply any other coating after the white spirits, the surface needs to be washed with soap or detergent and water. Some brands of this may leave an invisible residue that will interfere with adhesion of subsequent coats of aqueous or alcohol solvent coatings.
Don't use anything labeled as "paint thinner" or "lacquer thinner." Sold under such names, they can and do often contain solvents that will dissolve almost any common coating. Some will also dissolve styrene.
