scalebuilderchad
Active Member
- Joined
- Aug 31, 2023
- Messages
- 191
I try to learn something new with every new build. With the 1950 Chevy Pickup I just finished I learned to scratch build and to incorporate 3D printed parts.
With this 1954 Hudson Hornet from Moebius, I am building it lowrider style. And the skill I am going to learn is a true metal flake paint job.
What is a true metal flake paint job? A true metal flake paint job cinsists of multiple steps. First a metallic base coat. Then you apply what is called a mid coat. This mid coat is gloss clear with a bunch of metal flakes mixed into it. And then you apply gloss clear over everything to burry the flakes. But the gloss clear is challenging because it doesn't lay down flat on top of all that metal flake. You have to apply a couple wet clear coats, let it cure a few days, then wet sand it with 800 grit to remove all the high spots. Then apply more clear. And you might have to sand it again to remove more bumps. But eventualy it comes out smooth.
With this Hudson I am going to use lowrider urethane paints from Tropical Glitz.
The first hurdle was finding a primer that the paint wouldn't burn right through. All my typical primers failed. Tamiya, Mr Surfacer, and Splash 2k Surfacer all ailed under the hot urethane basecoat. So I bought some automotive grade primer off Amazon. SEM is the brand I think. Tropical Glitz recommended it.
The automotive primer held up to the hot paint. I test shot some spoons.
The lighter color is called Sandbar. And then I did a mid coat with a light amount of Sandbar flake in it. The darker color is called Toasted Coconut. And the midcoat on this color is heavy with Toasted Coconut flake. And then both spoons have a bunch of Mr Super Clear Gloss UV Cut on them.
With this 1954 Hudson Hornet from Moebius, I am building it lowrider style. And the skill I am going to learn is a true metal flake paint job.
What is a true metal flake paint job? A true metal flake paint job cinsists of multiple steps. First a metallic base coat. Then you apply what is called a mid coat. This mid coat is gloss clear with a bunch of metal flakes mixed into it. And then you apply gloss clear over everything to burry the flakes. But the gloss clear is challenging because it doesn't lay down flat on top of all that metal flake. You have to apply a couple wet clear coats, let it cure a few days, then wet sand it with 800 grit to remove all the high spots. Then apply more clear. And you might have to sand it again to remove more bumps. But eventualy it comes out smooth.
With this Hudson I am going to use lowrider urethane paints from Tropical Glitz.
The first hurdle was finding a primer that the paint wouldn't burn right through. All my typical primers failed. Tamiya, Mr Surfacer, and Splash 2k Surfacer all ailed under the hot urethane basecoat. So I bought some automotive grade primer off Amazon. SEM is the brand I think. Tropical Glitz recommended it.
The automotive primer held up to the hot paint. I test shot some spoons.
The lighter color is called Sandbar. And then I did a mid coat with a light amount of Sandbar flake in it. The darker color is called Toasted Coconut. And the midcoat on this color is heavy with Toasted Coconut flake. And then both spoons have a bunch of Mr Super Clear Gloss UV Cut on them.