'64 1/2 Mustang convertible - Monogram

Any last words before top coat? Tips/tricks? I'm really attempting to get my best finish yet. I followed a specific primer procedure. I did not sand the final black coat. It's pretty smooth to the touch. Where I get lost is how to judge when to wet sand/polish, how many coats in between and repeat the process more than once? How do you guys handle the engine bay and underside of hood? Using Rustoleum Burgundy rattle can.

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Looks great to me. Pantherman
 
If you're going to polish that paint you need to give it several days to harden .
What polishing compound are you using ?
 
Getting into the interior.

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No not this one.

I'm fairly pleased with how it turned out, but of course I have issues.
(In no particular order)
  • Steering Wheel - I used MM Wood but the color is too light for me. I would repaint, but I like how the rivets came out so I left it. Also want to try a wood grain effect like I see on old propellers. Used liquid chrome pen on the spokes. Wish I'd drilled the holes first, still might. In the center there is actual detail of the horse logo. What can I do with that? Pain...no.

  • Dashboard - The gauges are one chrome piece, pretty well detailed. I used panel liner to bring out detail (no decals). I used acrylic polish to gloss it up then drops of Modge Podge to get that "glass" effect. I was trying to get the domed effect, but when I added a larger drop it would not dry clear. Same with gauges on the column. Used the chrome pen on the glove box trim. I wanted to give the glove box cover some different texture/ color...no?

  • Console - Pretty straight forward. Bare Metal foil for the center. I did not realize kit came with two shifters until after. I would have prefered the stock version, but I left the racing one in. Again might swap out.

  • Seats and Doors - Gloss black rattle can. Finish came out good. Again I was looking for ideas to make it pop. Bare Metal on the hinges and chrome pen in back. Should I give the inlays a matte/flat varnish? Two tone? I don't want to stray far from original.

  • Floor - First time using WOW! embossing powder. Came out good. Color is Black Puff. A little light. I dusted it over wet black paint which worked ok, but in the future I would spread white glue over dried paint. I was scared to try and heat the powder but I don't think it needs it.
I look forward to any and all ideas and comments. Thanks for listening.

Cal

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I polished my color coat with Tamiya Finish. Felt good about it.

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2 mist coats and one a bit wetter of Mr. Super Clear. I let dry all day. I went to do a little wet sanding before decals. Started
with 1800-2000 then 3200 micro mesh.

What did I do wrong? Did I miss a step?
I started on the rear quarter panel (photos not great). I used next to no pressure and the finish became totally cloudy, not shiny. On the close up pic it may look scratched but it is actually very, very smooth.


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How do I proceed. Please, a little guidance. Will I end up re-spraying my top coat?
 
The cloudy is from the scratches .
You need to clear coat it .
I don't know why you sanded it since the finish looked good on this end .
 
Ok. Top coat ready for decals.

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I went with a generic burgundy rattle can. Not quite the hue I wanted but I can live with it. I'm not at a point where I mix paints or need to have an specific OEM color.
 
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Yes , you can gloss coat over any sheen .
Yes , you can apply acrylic over alkyd .

I assume after you add layers of more paint you will again sand everything , then add more paint , ad infinitum ?

Just strip it all off with something like Super Clean or another sodium hydroxide cleaner / stripper .
Or not .
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Yes , you can gloss coat over any sheen .
Yes , you can apply acrylic over alkyd .

I assume after you add layers of more paint you will again sand everything , then add more paint , ad infinitum ?

Just strip it all off with something like Super Clean or another sodium hydroxide cleaner / stripper .
Or not .
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Spray it on or soak it?
 
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