Chirchill Mk111 1/72 Italeri

[dave]

I'm getting a lot of success laying down colour on top of Mr.Hobby SF290 Mahogany Surfacer 1000 rather than black. I thin it down from the jar but you can get it in the rattle can as well

Hi steve thanks for the encouraging comments ,the mr hobby primer is the acrylic one not the lacquer version unless they now do the acrylic one in mahogany? Nice if they do I'll be on it ,super smooth i love the mr hobby paints have now started to only use the aqueous ones working from the dining room table family used to moan about the stink of the lacquer paint besides bloody cold in winter with the patio doors open. Whats your current project. Dave

 

[Steve Jones SMS]

I'm doing my first ever Warhammer tank. So much fun. Will post a blog in a few weeks.

 

[dave]

Sorry have been side swiped by the wingy thing but that needs a flat coat and the Churchill will at a stage so want to do both at once ,I want to hairspray technique/ chipping fluid the winter camo finish but can never make my mind up some time ago I had a go with hair spray on a 35th scaler wich was never finished because I only paid a tenner (£10)for it at a show the rubber band tracks were so old they'd shrunk and were badly warped so really the whole thing was just a test bed ,but the hair spray does give a very realistic finish looking like worn paint


But I dont think ,well I havent tried, the amount of scrubbing that was involved would totally destroy a little 72nder ,I have used AK chipping fluid on a couple of 72nder's with mixed results well I felt the results were mixed


So the choice is
As I said the hair spray although I feel gives the best result but for reasons given dont want to risk with the small stuff ,on both the 72nd models I used the AK worn effects, the bottle's of AK chipping fluid and tamiya chipping liquid I havent even opened so will go with one of the two if anybody has a preference as to wanting to see how it goes with either product pipe up a bit quick and I'll give it a go plus if it goes all a bit Pete Tounge(wrong for thoes on your side of the pond)I can pass the blame ,cheers Dave

 

[JOHN R]

They would have been SCC 2 brown from the factory, and I agree, why would the Soviets waste paint repainting them unless they had to? There are pictures of American tanks in Russian service with all American markings still on them, too. But maybe there was a need to repaint this one for some reason, who knows.

From everything I've read on Lend Lease Jakko that's correct, they didn't have the time or inclination to slap any 4BO on.

Nice of Dave to think of me

 

[JOHN R]

Sorry have been side swiped by the wingy thing but that needs a flat coat and the Churchill will at a stage so want to do both at once ,I want to hairspray technique/ chipping fluid the winter camo finish but can never make my mind up some time ago I had a go with hair spray on a 35th scaler wich was never finished because I only paid a tenner (£10)for it at a show the rubber band tracks were so old they'd shrunk and were badly warped so really the whole thing was just a test bed ,but the hair spray does give a very realistic finish looking like worn paint
View attachment 127911
View attachment 127912
But I dont think ,well I havent tried, the amount of scrubbing that was involved would totally destroy a little 72nder ,I have used AK chipping fluid on a couple of 72nder's with mixed results well I felt the results were mixed
View attachment 127913
View attachment 127914
So the choice isView attachment 127915
As I said the hair spray although I feel gives the best result but for reasons given dont want to risk with the small stuff ,on both the 72nd models I used the AK worn effects, the bottle's of AK chipping fluid and tamiya chipping liquid I havent even opened so will go with one of the two if anybody has a preference as to wanting to see how it goes with either product pipe up a bit quick and I'll give it a go plus if it goes all a bit Pete Tounge(wrong for thoes on your side of the pond)I can pass the blame ,cheers Dave

I like the Chipping Fluid, do know that Steve always uses the hair spray. Think both have there merits.

 

[scottie]

I must admit I haven't tried the aftermarket chipping products being a skin flint, so I will stick with my hairspray. It wouldn't surprise me if the aftermarket ones were just hairspray in a bottle and 10 times the cost

 

[dave]

I must admit I haven't tried the aftermarket chipping products being a skin flint, so I will stick with my hairspray. It wouldn't surprise me if the aftermarket ones were just hairspray in a bottle and 10 times the cost

Don't think they are but hair spray gives the best results but as I said might be a bit to violent to scrub up on little delicate 72nder's. Dave

 

[scottie]

You could be right mate.

 

[Jakko]

From everything I've read on Lend Lease Jakko that's correct, they didn't have the time or inclination to slap any 4BO on.

To be honest, this is no different from the British Army: that also didn't overpaint American equipment (in olive drab) for service in Europe, even when the British standard colour was SCC 2 brown. In fact, that was replaced by SCC 15 olive drab to make British equipment match American colours.

 

[Steve Jones SMS]

I find Tamiya white chips beautifully. Also the thinner you use effects the paint chip size. So if you thin with lacquer you get a different result from thinning with water ie chip size. Also if you chip paint on PE or metal figures it effects the chipping. You can decant hairspray into your airbrush if that helps. I find a fine spray whether hairspray or chipping fluid works best. Two coats is best but the first coat must be dry before applying another. Paint thickness is key with best results from two or three fine coats. If it's too thick it will all come off as one chip or damage the model trying to chip it. Finally dryness of paint is key. Try to chip just after the paint has dried usually around 30mins to an hour.However I have chipped after a day or two but needs a bit of skill. Which brings me onto my last tip which is to use a metal pen or thick wire wool to create thin penetration which can then be exploited by the chipping brush. Finally experiment on each model to see if it is better to put water on the model, wait a minute and then start chipping or use a wet brush to chip straight away. Once all this is mastered you can enjoy the benefits of multi layering chipping. I am currently practicing burnish chipping where you get a softer more realistic chip. This involves thinner or water depending on the paint used. It produces some realistic finishes but can also destroy a paint job if done incorrectly.

 

[JOHN R]

I find Tamiya white chips beautifully. Also the thinner you use effects the paint chip size. So if you thin with lacquer you get a different result from thinning with water ie chip size. Also if you chip paint on PE or metal figures it effects the chipping. You can decant hairspray into your airbrush if that helps. I find a fine spray whether hairspray or chipping fluid works best. Two coats is best but the first coat must be dry before applying another. Paint thickness is key with best results from two or three fine coats. If it's too thick it will all come off as one chip or damage the model trying to chip it. Finally dryness of paint is key. Try to chip just after the paint has dried usually around 30mins to an hour.However I have chipped after a day or two but needs a bit of skill. Which brings me onto my last tip which is to use a metal pen or thick wire wool to create thin penetration which can then be exploited by the chipping brush. Finally experiment on each model to see if it is better to put water on the model, wait a minute and then start chipping or use a wet brush to chip straight away. Once all this is mastered you can enjoy the benefits of multi layering chipping. I am currently practicing burnish chipping where you get a softer more realistic chip. This involves thinner or water depending on the paint used. It produces some realistic finishes but can also destroy a paint job if done incorrectly.

What about fire, I always find that works

 

[Steve Jones SMS]

Only if it is mixed with brimstone. Those lacquer paints can be a bit tough

 

[JOHN R]

Only if it is mixed with brimstone. Those lacquer paints can be a bit tough

That reminds me of dear Simon T , bless him .

 

[Steve Jones SMS]

I was making some screw threads using styrene rod today which he taught me. Always in my mind when scratch building