Custom decal issues

[durangod]

Hi, i am having issues with my custom decals and wanted to see if anyone else did as well.

I have done them before and they came out fine but that was on a light colored background and so i was able to do transparent decal. Now with this dark blue background no matter what color i use even white letters it cant be read.

Also i am having issues with the letters being stretched even though it slides off easy.

Did i buy crap paper?

Here is a pic of paper and also one custom decal. I got transparent and white from same Mfg. These 2 are for the doors, and i have one for the back that reads "To Oakley From Grandpa Dave" all same color.

All of which i cant get done after 3x trying.

The 2 for the mud flaps i did on white paper and they came out good. But i dont want to use white paper on doors. This is the logo i had professionally done for my company years ago, i figured it would make a good decal.




Anyone have these issues? I did let clear coat on decal dry for about 3 hours.

 

[Scratchbuilder]

If I have to produce my own decals, I first start in a program (Photoshop) and design or even take an item from a photo. And I am sure you know how to do this...
The paper I use is Matte clear, not gloss. I have found that gloss does not hold the ink as good and has the tendancy to produce three elements - first the paper itself, then the ink, then the varnish as seperate layers, so that when you come to use them the water gets between each layer and then you get the 'stretch' of the image....
I went through the hair pulling process untill I tried the matt paper, this is where the ink sinks into the surface and not sit on top... And I usually let the varnish dry for a good 8 to 24 hours before use and give the decal at least a 1mm border to stop the 'ledge' effect at the edge of the decal.
Hope this helps
Mike.

 

[BlackSheepTwoOneFour]

You can't print white. There's no such thing as white ink. Clear decal paper will appear translucent, white decal paper can give you white background but you will have to trim around the image ie: stars & bars aircraft insignia.

 

[durangod]

Thanks so much @Scratchbuilder and @BlackSheepTwoOneFour that helps so much. Yes i use old version photoshop 3.
Your tips explain so much, thank you again.

 

[Pantherman]

If I have to produce my own decals, I first start in a program (Photoshop) and design or even take an item from a photo. And I am sure you know how to do this...
The paper I use is Matte clear, not gloss. I have found that gloss does not hold the ink as good and has the tendancy to produce three elements - first the paper itself, then the ink, then the varnish as seperate layers, so that when you come to use them the water gets between each layer and then you get the 'stretch' of the image....
I went through the hair pulling process untill I tried the matt paper, this is where the ink sinks into the surface and not sit on top... And I usually let the varnish dry for a good 8 to 24 hours before use and give the decal at least a 1mm border to stop the 'ledge' effect at the edge of the decal.
Hope this helps
Mike.

What varnish do you use? Pantherman

 

[Scratchbuilder]

It is a humbrol brand, bit too dark here now to go hunting outside, but will give you the name tomorrow....

 

[durangod]

What varnish do you use? Pantherman

i dont use one, never have.

 

[BlackSheepTwoOneFour]

Even rattlecan Rustoleum brand clear gloss works just as good.

 

[durangod]

Ok ill get some, i have clear its just lacquer not enamel. Ill get some rusto rattle can. I would prefer to have something i could brush on so i dont have to tape up the model. Any suggestions?

So what do i put on first, the clear or the mr mark setter, i assume the clear then when dry i used setter, correct.

 

[Scratchbuilder]

Spray some of the varnish into a cap for the can or a spare, be sure to cover the cap as you are doing it to stop it going everywhere, and I mean everywhere (green hair for a month).... Then once the gas has bled off, brush on....