F15A Ford w/Breda in Italian service

GodHandtool sanding sticks
...yes especially that you can cut them for purpose-fit, like in this case, or to follow a rounded or irregular contour.
But when there is room, and you want a square edge, those ultra rigid carbon fibre sticks (left of photo) are pretty awesome too... I have one set up with 400 grit on one side, 800 on the other.
 
So I assembled the box. The instructions suggest gluing nine lengths of .3mm wire between the hinges to mimic the mechanism on the real truck.
That's way too fiddly for me.
How about use one length of carbon fiber antenna passed through bits of wire sheathing cut and placed in the right spots?
Easy enough to remove the existing hinges. And glue the new ones with the rod in place.

Here is the mockup, haven't removed the plastic hinges yet.

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I did look at brass tubing, but cutting 12 tiny lengths would have been a royal pain and a bit big.
And also some larger sheathing with brass rods, but they looked too big.
So I think I have a plan.
 
What do you use for cutting brass rod and tube ?
Having seen your jigs, you probably have a better solution. :rolleyes:

This is how I've been doing it.
The only reliable technique for tube I've found and use, though it takes patience and a steady hand, is to roll/score the tube under a sharp, heavier, hobby blade. Preferably not on a cushiony base, as that will encourage the tube/rod to bend under pressure.

After enough turns, it'll just snap off.
Pushing too hard will indent the tube.
I sometimes use an awl to flare the tube back open.

For tiny rods, I just cut, either with PE snips, or larger ones, small pliers. Of course, I cut just a tad longer, and file/sand the end square afterwards.

I do have a mini tube cutter, similar to a plumbing pipe cutter, but the issue with that is the support points don't accommodate really small lengths, like in this project.

I should probably try heating the brass before cutting, maybe that would speed up the scoring(?).
 
If you don't already have a back saw and miter box ,
get something like this : https://www.scalehobbyist.com/catag...saw-42tpi/ZNA00035241/product.php?s=4&t=0&u=1

I added some timber to it ,
an adjustable stop that makes cutting exact lengths , even super short lengths , really easy and accurate .
The lever is to hold the rod/tube tight to the fence -- it's removable for wider stock .
The screw on the magnet anchors it to the edge of the bench . The end of the lever has a hole for hanging it adjacent the bench .

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Nice!
I have a saw that looks quite similar... but not the mini miter box.
So obvious!
Used to use one all the time for wood projects, PVC and ABS pipe. Then it fell into disuse when the radial compound miter saw moved into town...

Thanks!
Because as you may have noticed, I really do like working with brass. :p
 
Those saws hold up pretty well cutting brass , but they are so cheap I just replace them when performance drops off -- they will still cut plastic / wood after retirement from brass .
 
Hinges done. Bonus: got to use some smaller leftover lengths of CF aerial by joining them inside tube (hinge)!
Gel CA worked great as it stays in place, and doesn't dry immediately as I adjust the hinges.

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That floor looks pretty slick...

A search of restoration pics shows tread plate...

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... and I may have what I need in the stash somewhere...

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Haven't done this before.
I'll start with some templates cut to fit the floor.
Then use them to cut the brass.
Some other photos seem to show a long rectangular plate behind the center console.
That makes sense, and will make my job easier!
So, three pieces to fit.
 
Templates is the way to go, yes. Better spend a good deal of time making a piece of paper fit, than much more time wasting brass you could have used for something else :)
 
Prototyping time!
What if I use ton frisket film to capture shape?

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Or how about jamming some Silly Putty in there?
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Haha, putty wrapped behind the gas pedal!
Not the best for this situation, but worth a try!
... and besides the fact that it doesn't easily distort after the fact, the film should do the trick!
I can draw on it, and it is low tack sticky for placing on my tread plate brass.

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Will require some filing and a bit of trimming for a more snug fit. Having three sizes of (inexpensive) file sets comes in handy when looking for the nearest radius! This file is from the biggest set.
But not too bad all in all!
I need to trim off the width of the doors and back wall before I glue them in.
PE snips worked better than expected in the curves.

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