I think i've found ideal putty for my models

[scalebuilderchad]

We must be using two different types of Apoxie Sculpt. And there are two different types.

 

[urumomo]

2 types ?

 

[urumomo]

Which product did you get ? : https://avesstudio.com/shop/

 

[scalebuilderchad]

 

[scalebuilderchad]

The guy at the hobby shop said there was this stuff. Or another version that cures harder. Even though it looked the same.

I chose this one based on his recommendation. He said the other type might cure too hard.

Maybe I should have bought that other type.

 

[urumomo]

IDK , there's only one formulation for that stuff , other than the various colors it comes in .
That's the first time I've been to their website since around maybe 2007 when I was looking for vendors .
I'm not familiar with the " Fixit " or the " Critter Clay " , guess I'll order some of each to check it out .

 

[Eagle-1]

The problem with Bondo Spot Putty is it has a very short working window. Once you mix in the hardener you only have 5-10 minutes before it gets too hard to work with. And it has a VERY strong odor. It is not wife-approved in my house. haha

That ain't what this is. THIS is BONDO SPOT & GLAZE PUTTY to fill in tiny imperfections AFTER you mix and spread BONDO BODY FILLER. Two totally different animals. Body filler fills dents in fenders. Bondo spot putty fills spots in body filler. The spot putty I recommended squirts straight outta that tube and you use it exactly the same way you use any other modeling putty except that it's much better than any other type I've used. The ONLY problem I've run into with spot & glaze is that you can't apply it thick, on styrene sheet specifically, unless you wanna wait awhile to work it. Thick, it will start to melt the plastic. This don't shrink and can be worked in 30 seconds.

Rob.

 

[greyphantom1000]

The problem with Bondo Spot Putty is it has a very short working window. Once you mix in the hardener you only have 5-10 minutes before it gets too hard to work with. And it has a VERY strong odor. It is not wife-approved in my house. haha

I use Tamiya and Mr Hobby lacquer putties for most applications. The trick I like to do is I spackle the putty on and roughly form it to shape. Then I take some Mr Surfacer 1000 in a jar and brush it onto the fresh putty. This softens the putty and allows me to smooth it and shape it with the brush. Once I have softened and shaped the putty as needed, I let it sit overnight and it is good to go the next day.

The downside with lacquer putty is it shrinks. I often have to apply it 2 or 3 times to get an uneven seam filled the way I want it.

I have been searching for a good filler that has a working time of 30 minutes or more so I can take my time. A filler that doesn't shrink. And a filler that can hold its shape so you can use it to create features that weren't there and you can sand it without it crumbling away.

The closest thing I have come to this is I take a very thick, very slow CA glue and mix micro balloons into it. Micro balloons can be bought in large quantities from adhesive supply places. Or you can buy small containers from the hobby shop. It is used as a filler for RC boats and airplane construction.

This CA / micro baloon combo seems to work pretty well. The only drawback is that this filler is often harder than the material around it. So sometimes it can be hard to feather it out into the surrounding plastic.

completely agree with the odor lol. But this particular one is all in one. No hardener. And yes you do have to work fast lol. I like to use it out in the garage.

 

[scalebuilderchad]

That ain't what this is. THIS is BONDO SPOT & GLAZE PUTTY to fill in tiny imperfections AFTER you mix and spread BONDO BODY FILLER. Two totally different animals. Body filler fills dents in fenders. Bondo spot putty fills spots in body filler. The spot putty I recommended squirts straight outta that tube and you use it exactly the same way you use any other modeling putty except that it's much better than any other type I've used. The ONLY problem I've run into with spot & glaze is that you can't apply it thick, on styrene sheet specifically, unless you wanna wait awhile to work it. Thick, it will start to melt the plastic. This don't shrink and can be worked in 30 seconds.

Rob.

I know what I'm talking about. I have some

 

[Eagle-1]

I know what I'm talking about. I have some

Ok, I never said you didn't know "what you're talking about", but you have some what? Body filler or spot & glaze putty? You said "mix in the hardener". There ain't no hardener for spot & glaze and there is no strong smell. Body filler does have hardener and a strong smell and they are two totally different products. Spot & glaze, not intended for models, granted, is the best putty for models I've ever used.

Rob.

 

[the Baron]

Yeah, there's only one Apoxie Sculpt. Sometimes it is referred to as "Aves A&B", but the product is "Apoxie Sculpt".
In their Apoxie line, there is also a clay and a paste, also both 2-part products, but those aren't the epoxy putty.

 

[proximitaslocal]

The Bondo Spot and Glazing putty reminds me of the old, discontinued (30 years ago) Squadron "green toothpaste" putty in a tube except the Bondo is red not green. It is able to be thinned with acetone or nail polish remover and it has minimal if any shrinkage. I apply it, wait a few seconds, then rough shape it with a knife or wooden pottery tool. After drying I give it a final shaping with needle files and sanding tools. At this time, I can also scribe in any details as necessary. Then I coat it with a thin CA glue which seals the pores in the putty. One more fine sanding (600-1200 grit) and its ready to prime and paint.

As for the smell, yes it can be overwhelming at times, but that dissipates quickly as it dries. Honestly, it's no worse than when my wife does her nails.