Meng 1/35 Panther-D (Early) Sd.Kfz.171 #TS-038

[Jakko]

Having built two sets of those MiniArt T41s, they go together fairly well. You will probably want to make a jig for them, though:



This is just a bit of wood strip with three lengths of balsa glued to it so that there's just enough room for the completed track to sit between them — you want as little room to spare as possible. The second photo shows how I use it: have two "inner" block halves at the end of the track, drop an end connector on both sides, put a small drop of glue onto the one that's not at the very end, and then put an "outer" block half onto it (and press it down firmly). Then add a new "inner" half to the end, two more end connectors, repeat.

If you try to assemble the track the other way up (that is, with the teeth into the air), you'll have two problems. Without a jig, the end connectors will keep falling over and out of the track before you can glue the "inner" halves on; and using a jig without the centre piece of balsa, the "inner" block half is very difficult to get between the end connectors because they overhang it on the inside of the track.

The "WE 210" track (the correct designation is actually WD 212 — WE 210 was the part number for a four-block length of this track) is exactly the same, only the outer block half is different.

 

[BarleyBop]

Thanks for the tips @Jakko ! Bookmarked for posterity.

 

[Jakko]

Oh, forgot to mention an additional tip that you can just make out in the second photo: you can save yourself a lot of counting if you write on every tenth block the tens place of the number of links in the track. You can see a 5 and a 6 in the photo: those are the 50th and 60th links in this track.

 

[Belugawrx]

but the steel is showing fingerprints BAD, and I'm worried about the paint adhering.
I always make sure to wear nitrile gloves when dealing with p/e parts...saves alot of post cleaning...just sayin'
Model on brother

 

[Edbert]

Continuing to plug away, I typically have several WIPs on the bench, so progress is a bit slow.


Got her painted up, no shots taken in between the colors. I admit I have too much overspray, my brush was splattering more than I care to admit. I thought about going back in with the dark yellow to clean it up a bit, but decided against it, it would look like exactly what it was.


All shiny and ready for washes. I think I have solved my issue (7-8 months of anguish) with enamel/turpentine/oil eating my clear-coats, but that is for a different thread.


Here's my proof that washes are not killing top-coats and eroding down to the surfacer (lacquer) primer, I rubbed that open area harder than I have ever used a Q-tip before, and no dissolving! Such a relief.

 

[TimM63]

Continuing to plug away, I typically have several WIPs on the bench, so progress is a bit slow.

View attachment 135980
Got her painted up, no shots taken in between the colors. I admit I have too much overspray, my brush was splattering more than I care to admit. I thought about going back in with the dark yellow to clean it up a bit, but decided against it, it would look like exactly what it was.

View attachment 135979
All shiny and ready for washes. I think I have solved my issue (7-8 months of anguish) with enamel/turpentine/oil eating my clear-coats, but that is for a different thread.

View attachment 135981
Here's my proof that washes are not killing top-coats and eroding down to the surfacer (lacquer) primer, I rubbed that open area harder than I have ever used a Q-tip before, and no dissolving! Such a relief.

I really like the camo paint job.

 

[Jakko]

I admit I have too much overspray

Not necessarily. Who is to say the crew that painted this tank knew anything about how to use their spray guns?

Also, if you add an overall wash to shade or dirty up the tank, a lot of the overspray will disappear.