Modeling Supplies

[hooterville75]

Here is a list of basic supplies I have at my work desk. Couple X-acto knifes, set of very very cheap sanding files, dremel and 62 piece accessories, micro mesh polishing cloths, model masters cement, Testors paint, model masters paint, novus 1 2 n 3, Maguires detailing spritz,

If you were given $100-200 what tools and supplies would you add to your arsenel ? Im getting ready to make a run online to order some supplies and tools etc with this money. I would like to have an entire arsenal of tools, supplies and accessories that I need to be fully capable of building a model start to finish. Thanks in advance for any info or recommendations.

 

[Subhuman1]

Pin vise and drill bits, scribe, Sprue cutters, sand paper, assorted tweezers, small clamps, small vise of some sort, razor or jewelers saws.

Those items along with what you mentioned are what are constantly at hand for me. I will mention I do apparently seem to have some sort of file fetish, as I can't see to have enough of them.

But even with all of those things mentioned, something I am always on the look out for, and haven't found the "one" for myself yet, magnifying unit (glass or glasses or w.h.y.) and light seems you can never have enough light.

Enjoy your shopping spree

 

[dkev]

Pin vise and drill bits, scribe, Sprue cutters, sand paper, assorted tweezers, small clamps, small vise of some sort, razor or jewelers saws.

Those items along with what you mentioned are what are constantly at hand for me. I will mention I do apparently seem to have some sort of file fetish, as I can't see to have enough of them.

But even with all of those things mentioned, something I am always on the look out for, and haven't found the "one" for myself yet, magnifying unit (glass or glasses or w.h.y.) and light seems you can never have enough light.

Enjoy your shopping spree

I agree, you can never have enough light. I actually just use a magnifying glass. I don't know what you build but Tamiya tape is a must. It's thin, easy to cut, and paint doesn't seep under it. Badger paint mixer is a life saver. Tamiya extra thin cement. It's a "welding" glue. Great for seams. Micro Set and Micro Sol for setting decals. Oh and tooth pics. Good foundation. You'll add tons later...trust me.

 

[The Nylon Gag]

I would also add several different sorts of CA (super glue).

http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=zap+ca+glue&tag=googhydr-20&index=aps&hvadid=6336978261&hvpos=1t1&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1354071342406015923&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=b&ref=pd_sl_1njzic9b97_b

Zap do thin, thick, medium, fast dry, slow dry and everything in between, i also use a basic Krazy glue all purpose CA from the supermarket just because it has a built in brush. I also have some liquid weld from Plastistruct.

Squadron putty is always useful and some Bondo glazing and spot putty is very good.

http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=squadron+putty&tag=googhydr-20&index=aps&hvadid=10334093376&hvpos=1t1&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=168304995823124767&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&ref=pd_sl_2brm7phv7s_e

http://www.amazon.com/Bondo-907-Glazing-Spot-Putty/dp/B0002JM8PY

I use regular Rust-oleum Auto primer from Home depot, but you have to very careful not to over do it on details or they will disappear.

Punches are usefull if you are scratch building and the something i must buy myself soon is a few different types of AK weathering materials, i'm not sure what to buy myself in that department but they are supposed to be the best. I suppose it depends on the type of models you intend to make.

Thats all i can think of at the mo
Now go spend, spend, spend my friend (that rhymes, wow, i'm a poet and i didn't even know it, Lol ;D sorry, i'll get my coat)

Take care

Gag

 

[Ian]

Some good info in this thread: http://www.scalemodeladdict.com/index.php/topic,7002.msg107491.html

 

[hooterville75]

Some good info in this thread: http://www.scalemodeladdict.com/index.php/topic,7002.msg107491.html

Wow!!!!! Ian thanks for the reply. I personal messaged you the other evening only to have it bounced back to me saying the user blocked my personal message. Ill view this link after Im done reading the forums, use the rest of the info supplied in this thread and make my decisions on what I purchase after. Thanks to all who responded.

 

[Ian]

I might have something set up incorrectly with personal messages, will have to check.

 

[hooterville75]

Scott, Ian, Spud thanks for the most valuable info on the posts to the link Ian posted. Very valuable. Scott, I love the itemized lists with techniques youd need the tools for the best out of the thread. Very valuable info there.

What I have already, four or five X-Acto Knifes, 5 pack of spare #11 blades + the blades on each knife. Glue - 2 containers of Model Master Liquid Cement, 2 containers MM clear for glass, + various tubes of the Red Toxic cement. Airbrush I already have a Badger Patriot 105. Also getting a Badger 200 series Bottom Feed single action within the next two weeks. Paints I have a ton of Model Master 1/2 oz bottles both Enamel and Acrylic + tons of Testors 1/4 oz bottles Enamel and Acrylics. Thinner - Testors Acrylic thinner, Enamel cheap lacquer thinner. Brushes - Cheap brushes that need replaced, Sandpaper - 400 & 600 grit sandpaper, 1,500 - 12,00 Grits Micro Mesh Polishing Cloths. Also have a Testors set of sanding and polishing cloths. Primer - Dr Cranky has me a firm believer of Plasti-Kote sandable primer. Micro Set, and Micro Sol. Toothpicks, Q-Tips cheap set of junk sanding files, Scissors for cutting decals, Needle Nose pliers, various super glues, dremil with a 62 piece accessory, and a 5 pack of Tweezers.

What I need to get. Bulk pack of #11 X-Acto blades, surgical scalpels when I venture into BMF, Sprue Cutters is a topic Im confused with. Scott of Elm City Hobbies has me a firm believer of Xuron. After looking at different Excel, Squadron, Tamiya Sprue Cutters after shipping they all price the same as Xuron so Im sticking with the Xuron 2175ET. Tamiya Extra Thin Cement Green cap. My question with Cement is I noticed there are different Tamiya cements. Whats the differences to the Green Cap verses the Gold and White caps? What brand of brushes and what sizes do you recommend I get ? Clamps, what brand and sizes do you recommend ? Scott, sandpaper and sanding sticks. What grits of sandpaper and what brand and grits of sanding sticks should I get. Im planning on getting some Solvaset as well. Masking Tape Im getting various widths of Fine Line Masking tape through 3M Scotch. Also want to do the same with Tamiya (try both to see which I like better, Im told 3M Fine line is identical to Tamiya but you get a ton more tape cheaper). Weathering AK materials. Totally new to me. What do you recommend I get so I have it for when Im ready to venture into the weathering portion of the hobby.

Spud you mentioned Saws, what types of saws do I need ? Assuming this is for scratch building ?? Scriber Im going to get dental probes for scribing. Thanks for all your help guys. Really appreciate this. Im hoping to be fully equipped and ready do some serious modeling in 2013.

 

[hooterville75]

I might have something set up incorrectly with personal messages, will have to check.

Cool man. Check it out. I figured good lord what did I do to Ian to make him mad ha ha. Doenst like making enemies on here ha ha. Thanks again for the reply.

 

[Bullet21]

There's gotta be an airbrush in there somewhere. And if you want to delve into photo-etch a hold-and-fold is handy.

 

[hooterville75]

There's gotta be an airbrush in there somewhere. And if you want to delve into photo-etch a hold-and-fold is handy.

Airbrush I already have a Badger Patriot 105. Also getting a Badger 200 series Bottom Feed single action within the next two weeks.

Ive even thought about the Paasche H series airbrush because of my friendship with Donn Yost and using his enamel painting method, but I just cant force myself to shy away so I have to be partial to Badger with there support of the Forum. Thats why Im choosing the Badger 200 series. I want to use this to paint the bodies and bigger areas and stick to the Patriot 105 for the fine detail.

 

[Elm City Hobbies]

Tamiya Cement. There are 3 of them for plastic.

Green cap is Tamiya X-Thin....consistency of water, great for seams, as the seam will pull the cement in using capillary action. But can be used on other joints as well, and is what I use the most. Has a fine brush, so you can put just a small dab if needed. The only drawback I see with the X-Thin is that because it is so thin, it dries very quickly, so if you have 2 halves that need to be glued together, if they are big enough, there is a good chance that by the time you get around to where you started, the glue is usually almost flashed off and dry.

White cap, is Tamiya's standard cement, thicker than the X-thin, but works the same way, doesn't dry as fast as the X-thin, but is just as durable. Only complaint on it, is the brush is too big, so I generally pull it out, and just use a micro brush or old paint brush to apply it.

Orange cap, is thicker still than the white cap cement. I haven't used it, nor sell it here. Really don't see the need for it, as the white cap and green cap do 100% of any cementing of plastic I use. Just don't know why you would need a cement thicker than the white cap stuff.

Beyond that, the other cements I use would be varying thicknesses of CA glue for resin and PE parts, as well as Gator glue for certain PE parts as well as a clear part glue.

 

[hooterville75]

Tamiya Cement. There are 3 of them for plastic.

Green cap is Tamiya X-Thin....consistency of water, great for seams, as the seam will pull the cement in using capillary action. But can be used on other joints as well, and is what I use the most. Has a fine brush, so you can put just a small dab if needed. The only drawback I see with the X-Thin is that because it is so thin, it dries very quickly, so if you have 2 halves that need to be glued together, if they are big enough, there is a good chance that by the time you get around to where you started, the glue is usually almost flashed off and dry.

White cap, is Tamiya's standard cement, thicker than the X-thin, but works the same way, doesn't dry as fast as the X-thin, but is just as durable. Only complaint on it, is the brush is too big, so I generally pull it out, and just use a micro brush or old paint brush to apply it.

Orange cap, is thicker still than the white cap cement. I haven't used it, nor sell it here. Really don't see the need for it, as the white cap and green cap do 100% of any cementing of plastic I use. Just don't know why you would need a cement thicker than the white cap stuff.

Beyond that, the other cements I use would be varying thicknesses of CA glue for resin and PE parts, as well as Gator glue for certain PE parts as well as a clear part glue.

So Im thinking maybe a jar of each the Green and White cap are in the future. Seems it wouldnt hurt to have both on hand just in case that happens that you have a bigger part that needs two halves together pull the white cap out to have more time to get it to fit properly. If its a small part then use the green cap. I am by the way sold on the Xuron cutters after reading many reviews and seeing the prices of all the others till shipping is added I can have a pair of the 2175 ET you recommended for the same price on ebay including shipping so mise well utilize the better durable longer lasting Xuron cutters.

 

[adampolo13]

Hey man,

I haven't had a chance to read the whole thread so if somebody already suggested this I'm sorry for the redundance but along with what you already have and what a few others have suggested in terms of files, clamps, sanding sticks etc. I would invest in a quality PE bending station preferably Small Shop. As more and more kits now inlcude PE and as you become more skilled and venture more into PE this will be an absolute necessity.

Hope this helps.

Adam