Mustang GT4 (Tamiya 24354) - first kit as a newbie

[Zububu]

Hi there, so as a first kit i "built" (or better: "messed up") the 24354 by Tamiya. i know it's not supposed to be a beginner kit, but i told myself that if i wanted to start the hobby, i should have done it with a kit that i really liked.
i had some issues that hopefully you guys can help me understand better so i can improve with the next one (that won't be a car).

1 - couldn't mask properly, not even with the masking stickers provided in the kit for the windows. For everything else i used the Tamiya masking tape. As you can see in the photos attached, the paint went all over the windows. Is there any tip you can share about masking? should i let the masking tape "set" for some time before painting over it? (be aware that i had this problem mostly where i brush painted. With the spray can i had more luck)

2- cement ruined the paint in some places. under the rear mirror and in the front right bumber the cement ran a little bit over and removed the paint. I guess for some models it'd be better to cement before paint, but how to do that with a car? Is it possible that this occured due to the fact that maybe i applied too much cement?

3 - Tamiya paints take so long to dry. In many places i ruined the paint by touching it, event after i let it dry for 48 hours (yes, 48!). Again i'm talking about brush painted pieces. Initially i used a 4:1 ratio of paint (Tamiya acrylic) and MR Color leveveling thinner (the one with the retarder). After 48 hours if i touched the piece for more than 5-6 seconds (for example to cement it) the paint would transfer from the piece to my fingers, forcing me to re-paint it while attached to other parts. I tried to modify the ratio to 12:1 but it didn't change too much. I'm pretty sure that even if i have finished the model since 7 days if i'm going to touch it right now i'd still remove the paint somehow. what did i do wrong here?

4 - still regarding paint: for the next model i'm going to use a cheap airbrush: what do you suggest would be the right ratio for paint and thinner? (for both the parts i'm going to airbrush and for the ones i'm still going to paint with a normal brush)

5 - being my first model, i bought very cheap tools, should i buy better ones to improve the final result or it doesn't really matter? (i'm talking about brushes too, not only knives and cutters)

thanks!

 

[Haaselhoff13]

Hey there - for a first it you did great! Remember, this is supposed to be a fun learning experience so don't be so hard on yourself. In regards to your questions:

1 - Masking tape is great IF you do it with an airbrush. Masking help much if you a brush painting because theres too much paint that can seep through the masking bond. I recommend getting a cheap airbrush or trying to hand paint without the masking.

2- Model cement WILL ruin your paint. If you plan to use modeling cement use it on bare pieces. If you need to attach pieces after paint, try simple elmers or hobby glue (that will dry clear) OR clear super glue. Regardless which one you use, a little WILL go a long way

3 - Acrylic paint and leveling thinner do not go together. its either: Lacquer and leveling thinner or acrylic and acrylic thinner (Tamiya X-20A). If you plan to hand paint anything try a 1:1 ratio. or 1:2. If its acrylic you can even thin it with water.

4 - Great idea! You can also buy those Tamiya spray cans to prime and do body color. You can even spray pieces right on the sprue if you dot have an airbrush. For a good quality budget friendly airbrush, go with a Gaahleri. Thinning ratios tend to vary with the brand. I like to think of a consistency like skim milk.

5 - It depends on the tool. I recommend buying mid level brushes, some sanding blocks from Gods Hand, basic exacto blades (with handle obvi), tweezers (good quality modeling tweezers is recommended), modeling glue, super glue from Bob Smith. I know Im forgetting some crucial stuff but you get the idea. Go to a modeling website, see what they carry, buy from them or source elsewhere if you can get it cheaper.

Bottom line, have fun! I remember my first model and it's now in the trash so enjoy the ride!

 

[BlackSheepTwoOneFour]

It's not bad but it's a learning curve on the methods. Hassle HOF has good pointers. I have used lacquer thinner to thin Tamiya acrylics with no issues.

As far as airbrushes goes, you will get a lot of opinions. My advice? Check out Don's Airbrush Tips website. This is THE a bible of everything airbrushes. I advise you check it out and make your own decision and what you can afford.

https://sites.google.com/site/donsairbrushtips/

 

[Pantherman]

Hi there, so as a first kit i "built" (or better: "messed up") the 24354 by Tamiya. i know it's not supposed to be a beginner kit, but i told myself that if i wanted to start the hobby, i should have done it with a kit that i really liked.
i had some issues that hopefully you guys can help me understand better so i can improve with the next one (that won't be a car).

1 - couldn't mask properly, not even with the masking stickers provided in the kit for the windows. For everything else i used the Tamiya masking tape. As you can see in the photos attached, the paint went all over the windows. Is there any tip you can share about masking? should i let the masking tape "set" for some time before painting over it? (be aware that i had this problem mostly where i brush painted. With the spray can i had more luck)

2- cement ruined the paint in some places. under the rear mirror and in the front right bumber the cement ran a little bit over and removed the paint. I guess for some models it'd be better to cement before paint, but how to do that with a car? Is it possible that this occured due to the fact that maybe i applied too much cement?

3 - Tamiya paints take so long to dry. In many places i ruined the paint by touching it, event after i let it dry for 48 hours (yes, 48!). Again i'm talking about brush painted pieces. Initially i used a 4:1 ratio of paint (Tamiya acrylic) and MR Color leveveling thinner (the one with the retarder). After 48 hours if i touched the piece for more than 5-6 seconds (for example to cement it) the paint would transfer from the piece to my fingers, forcing me to re-paint it while attached to other parts. I tried to modify the ratio to 12:1 but it didn't change too much. I'm pretty sure that even if i have finished the model since 7 days if i'm going to touch it right now i'd still remove the paint somehow. what did i do wrong here?

4 - still regarding paint: for the next model i'm going to use a cheap airbrush: what do you suggest would be the right ratio for paint and thinner? (for both the parts i'm going to airbrush and for the ones i'm still going to paint with a normal brush)

5 - being my first model, i bought very cheap tools, should i buy better ones to improve the final result or it doesn't really matter? (i'm talking about brushes too, not only knives and cutters)

thanks!

View attachment 115258

View attachment 115259

View attachment 115260

View attachment 115261

View attachment 115262

View attachment 115263

View attachment 115264

View attachment 115265

It looks great for a first build. When I mask area's I usually run over the edge of the tape with the end of a brush or a cocktail stick to make sure it's sealed to the surface. Pantherman

 

[wjbrandel]

Good job, looks better than my first build.