Nitto Ma.K Maschinen Krieger A.F.S. Mk I

[Lincoln Wright]

Nice work Ian.

If they are the Nitto decals, they almost always silver nowadays. They are so very old and tired!

Plus if you are using very flat paints like Tamiya and flat clear coats, the odds of silvering are quite high.

Under or over decals I use semi gloss for what it's worth.

 

[MrNatural]

Ian, you are knocking this one out of the park my friend. Keep up the great work, for realz

 

[Ravhin]

If you want something to stick out of the hole you can try something like this : http://www.hlj.com/product/BAN976504

 

[Ian]

Interesting!

 

[builder101]

Hey Ian new to posting on the site but wanted to say how great this looks... The weathering is great and so is the damage. After seeing what you did with that LIS movie robot.. I bought the kit. I really liked the paint work you did on that and will prob not paint mine like the "actual robot in the movie"..

Anyways nice work on this..

Mike

 

[Ian]

Thanks Mike! The LIS kit was a little tricky but a lot of fun.

My full Flickr set is here if you need it: http://www.flickr.com/photos/albopix/sets/72157631953933438/

 

[Ian]

Nice work Ian.

If they are the Nitto decals, they almost always silver nowadays. They are so very old and tired!

Plus if you are using very flat paints like Tamiya and flat clear coats, the odds of silvering are quite high.

Under or over decals I use semi gloss for what it's worth.

Yup, hope to try a couple different clear coats this weekend. It's been fun learning all about decals from you folks on the forum.

 

[hook1169]

Love the damage, it turned out good!

 

[Grendels]

If you want something to stick out of the hole you can try something like this : http://www.hlj.com/product/BAN976504

With an LED back lighting that, it would look good! Something to keep in mind....

 

[Ian]

Now I gotta do lights?! I'm still scared of ground work!

 

[Glorfindel]

Now I gotta do lights?! I'm still scared of ground work!

I haven't got passed sniffing glue.
By the way the battle damage looks great.

 

[Grendels]

Now I gotta do lights?! I'm still scared of ground work!

Sorry, I was thinking more for something in the future on one of my builds.

 

[Ravhin]

Now I gotta do lights?! I'm still scared of ground work!

Sorry, I was thinking more for something in the future on one of my builds.

But it would surely look cook with some leds

 

[Ian]

True, it would. I'm sure LED lighting is in my future.

 

[Ian]

Worked on the 'kill shot' today and experimented with some stretched sprue pieces.




Colored those a nice metallic blue...

 

[Ian]

I also manned up and tackled that ground work finally.

On top of the foam I spread some joint compound and let that dry. Then I sprayed various shades of grey, let that dry, and then carved out the cracks and details. AK washes, pigment and effects after that.

My first time doing ground work and boy was it fun.

 

[Ian]

And I think this guy is done!

 

[hook1169]

Man Ian that turned out great!

I do have a silly question though, I have seen many a reference to "streched sprue" is this just slang for packaged styrene? Or is it really sprue that is "stretched" one way or another.?

Thanks,

 

[the Baron]

I do have a silly question though, I have seen many a reference to "streched sprue" is this just slang for packaged styrene? Or is it really sprue that is "stretched" one way or another.?

I gotta chime in. No, you're not hearing things, and it's not slang, it's a tried-and-true scratchbuilder's technique to make anything from radio aerials to aircraft rigging to ship's rails and rigging. You take a piece of sprue and hold it over a candle flame, till the sprue warms through enough to go soft and start to sag. Then you pull, quickly but gently, stretching it into a long thin fiber. With a little practice, you can make some really fine lines with it. You can also use a piece of a kit's sprue to stretch pieces for filling gaps. Stretch the sprue, cut a piece to the appropriate length, lay it into the gap, and hit it with liquid cement. You've filled the gap with the same material as the surrounding plastic, so it will behave the same under subsequent sanding, painting, etc.

A buddy of mine takes sprue with one of the pour gates, attaches a small nut (from a bolt) as a weight, heats the sprue, and lets the end with the nut drop, pulling the sprue to a super-thinness. He uses those pieces to rig his 1/700 ships, and the results are amazing.

Hope that helps explain it!

 

[Ravhin]

Turned out great Ian. I wonder what's coming next