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fatz

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I haven't searched this question, so I don't know whether it has been discussed.

I learned that using acrylic paint is a no-no on plastic. I have used it on several models, but with mixed results. The water cleanup is handy. I do not care for using enamel. Cleaning up is a pain in the rear. With the state of the art I would think someone would develop a water based paint that works on plastic. I did a bit of research on the problem and found latex paint will work on plastic, but there are no kits available. Maybe I missed something. Any thoughts?
 
Acrylic paint is fine on plastic .
Vallejo is water base acrylic .
Paint is defined by the binder , so Tamiya , AK ,Mr Color , Mission Model , Vallejo and on and on are all acrylic paints .
Most of the paints in this hobby that are called " lacquers " are actually acrylics -- the minority use nitrocellulose .

Where did you get that acrylics are not for plastic and why would this be the case ?
 
Who says acrylics not good for plastic model kits? I use acrylics (Tamiya, Model Master, PollyScale, Mission Models, Gunze/Mr. Color, Ak Interactive Real Colors, Aeromaster), enamels (Model Master, Testors small square bottles) and lacquer (Tamiya, MCW). I never use arts and crafts type paints.

Only one brand I hate and that's Vallejo. ATOM paint line is another I'm not too crazy about either.

Don't sell yourself negatively thinking acrylic are terrible paints. They're great for those who don't like the smell of enamel and lacquer paints. Some folks say Tamiya are great for airbrushing, terrible for hand brushing. I find that claim preposterous. I use Tamiya both ways airbrush and hand brushing.

BTW… latex paint is not made for model kit painting. In fact there's no such thing as latex hobby paints. Latex paint is for painting rooms in your house.

I,too, am curious where and who is telling you the BS lie that acrylic paint is a no-no for plastic models. Whoever this "expert" making that claim is full of ****.
 
My source is similar to "https://fluid-painting.com/en/acrylic-paint-on-plastic/". Apparently I have not been preparing the plastic properly. Sanding model kits is not practical. I will continue as I have been, I guess.

My impression was that acrylic paint was totally incompatible with plastic. I have been using it for several kits with no major problems beyond the paint not sticking well on some plastics.

I figured there was some better way.
 
Last edited:
You don't need to sand the kit parts .
You don't even need to wash the parts like with resin castings , as no form release is used in injection molding .

There are a multitude of acrylic resins used in paints .
Some are compatible with solvents , alcohols and ketones , and some are not .
The ones that are not are referred to as water base .
The others as solvent based .
The " lacquer acrylics " are obviously in the latter group .

Solvent based acrylics generally have much better adhesion on polystyrene , which is the plastic used in injection molded kits .


You said you had " mixed results "
What are the issues you encountered that makes you think acrylics are incompatible ?
Adhesion ?
 
Adhesion was the main problem. Maybe proper preparation would have helped.

I was hoping to find a better way. Using acrylic paints for plastic models is the way to go, apparently.
 
A good primer always helps .
I like using enamel primers ( modified alkyds like Rustoleum's 2X series in a rattlecan ) not only because of their superior adhesion but then I can remove any acrylic color coat issue with alcohol without damaging the primer layer .

Badger's STYNELREZ is really great primer . It's a polyurethane .
Excellent adhesion on plastic .
Sprays wonderfully straight from the bottle , preserves detail, and then any and all acrylic color coats will bond to it no problem .
 
urumomo said:
A good primer always helps .
I like using enamel primers ( modified alkyds like Rustoleum's 2X series in a rattlecan ) not only because of their superior adhesion but then I can remove any acrylic color coat issue with alcohol without damaging the primer layer .

Badger's STYNELREZ is really great primer . It's a polyurethane .
Excellent adhesion on plastic .
Sprays wonderfully straight from the bottle , preserves detail, and then any and all acrylic color coats will bond to it no problem .
Click to expand...
I use Rustoleum 2X. Works great. I have a can of gray, white, and black.
 
fatz said:
I haven't searched this question, so I don't know whether it has been discussed.

I learned that using acrylic paint is a no-no on plastic. I have used it on several models, but with mixed results. The water cleanup is handy. I do not care for using enamel. Cleaning up is a pain in the rear. With the state of the art I would think someone would develop a water based paint that works on plastic. I did a bit of research on the problem and found latex paint will work on plastic, but there are no kits available. Maybe I missed something. Any thoughts?
Click to expand...
I mainly use vallejo paints, never had a problem and clean up of airbrush done with vallejo airbrush cleaner, brushes cleaned with water. Pantherman
 
Adhesion was the main problem. Maybe proper preparation would have helped.
fatz said:
I was hoping to find a better way. Using acrylic paints for plastic models is the way to go, apparently.
Click to expand...
But the real question we should be asking is what brand of acrylic paint are you having issues with. I suspect you're using artist acrylics. Stay away from them. Those types of paints are for painting on canvas, not plastic. However, I have heard some hobbyists using artist oils with success.

As I've already mentioned I use enamels, lacquer and acrylics often. I never had issues airbrushing/handbrushing Tamiya and Testors small square bottles as well as Model Master brand paints. Mission Models line is great but scratches easily. Mission Models recommends a primer coat for their paint line.

urumomo said:
A good primer always helps .
I like using enamel primers ( modified alkyds like Rustoleum's 2X series in a rattlecan ) not only because of their superior adhesion but then I can remove any acrylic color coat issue with alcohol without damaging the primer layer .

Badger's STYNELREZ is really great primer . It's a polyurethane .
Excellent adhesion on plastic .
Sprays wonderfully straight from the bottle , preserves detail, and then any and all acrylic color coats will bond to it no problem .
Click to expand...
I've read and heard mixed reviews on Stynelrez primer.
I on some occasions, I never prime. When I do, I, too, use Rustoleum 2X primer in grey, white or black.
 
All are posts from this site. You haven't posted anything to support your argument from outside sources. I do agree some hobbyists use oil based artist paints and have had success with them. But are they worth it for mixing your colors to match FS/RLM/RAL colors? No. Why go through wasting paint by mixing them when hobby colors are readily available to them without doing the extra work of mixing your colors.

The only paint I would get for hobby use are Abteilung 502 brand. I've heard some folks use Americana brand for certain applications (figures, wooden propellers on biplanes, weathering methods, etc…)

My argument is keep it simple what's readily out there for hobby uses.

But hey… it's their money and time to waste. Each to his own.
 
What is the argument I need to support ?
I must always have links to peer reviewed documents with all my posts I guess ?
Exactly like you did here in this thread ?

So , mr chemistry , tell me how " craft " acrylics differ from " hobby acrylics " .
Not concerning color availability -- not everyone is trying to exactly match color standards like yourself .
 
Such a blowhard aren't you…

I'm one not afraid to speak my mind. I could care less about the chemistry aspect of paints and thinner. You seems to be the type that always talks about it constantly. Honestly, nobody cares about the chemistry aspect of them. It's pretty much too technical for anybody to understand the difference of chemistry properties. It gets old.

My point is buy hobby paints, not arts and crafts paints. It saves the trouble of why some folks deal with craft paint issues.

As I said… each to his own. Their money, not mine. They'll find out sooon enough they're not worth the hassle. Have at it.
 
Paint seems to be a somewhat volatile subject here. While I'm old school and started with brushed enamels and slowing moved towards spray cans, I still like to know the chemical breakdown of any product I'm using. I probably killed way too many brain cells when I was kid spray painting my models in a enclosed room without a respirator. I don't care to kill any more as I don't really know how many are left. Plus Cancer is in the family, my mother died from it at 58. I tend to take precautions more often than not and look for products that lessen the exposure of specific chemicals. I've never airbrushed and use spray cans, that said I always use a Niosh respirator with appropriate filters. I typically wash the parts of a model with warm, soapy water followed with a warm water rinse. Just before painting I wipe things down with alcohol 70%. I've used different brush paints and most seem to have different characteristics which I address with either retarder, thinner, etc. I don't used primer.....bad or good, I really don't know although I've never had a catastrophic failure except back in the 60's when I tried a store brand hobby paint that literally peeled off in sheets:(
 

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