paint

[the Baron]

Paint seems to be a somewhat volatile subject here...

Nice pun!

@fatz, if I could offer you a couple of general tips, I use acrylics, both water-based and solvent-based, on my styrene models, but also on various resin kits, and white metal.

Some of these have been mentioned already in the discussion:

1. I usually clean parts in warm water with a de-greaser, to make sure I have a clean surface. As momo pointed out, it's not as much for mold release agents, which were more of an issue with styrene kits years ago. It can still be an issue with resin, depending on the maker. But it's just to have a clean surface. Personal preference.
2. I use a primer, to promote adhesion. I use Tamiya's Fine Surfacer Primer most often, on styrene, resin, and white metal. Rustoleum and generic primers are pretty good, but can be a little coarser than a scale modeling primer. But that can be addressed, if necessary, with some gentle buffing. I've used coffee filter paper for that purpose.

I've never had any problems with acrylics adhering to surfaces. That's with water-based products like Andrea or Vallejo Model Color, or craft-store paint brands like Folk Art, Apple Barrel, Americana; solvent-based like Tamiya's X/XF paints, and old Model Master's acrylics.

Hope that helps!

 

[fatz]

Thanks for the tips. I used a Rustoleum primer on the last model, It worked pretty well Will try others on my next models. My Scotch upbringing says I won't be trying some of the more expensive options, tho.

 

[Down Time]

I've had good results with these two brands for miscellaneous colors., go to paint is usually Vallejo and Tamiya.

 

[the Baron]

...My Scotch upbringing says I won't be trying some of the more expensive options, tho.

Yeah, for me, it's called being Dutchy - Pennsylvania Dutch. We're known for being cheap, er, ah, thrifty, too. But I learned that sometimes you can be too cheap for your own good.

For example, when I started thinking about thinning the Tamiya acrylics, I saw what a bottle of Tamiya's acrylic thinner cost and said to myself, "I'm not paying that!" So I experimented, first with water, and then with isopropyl. For me, neither of those produced workable results for thinning, specifically for hand-brushing. The problem I had was that the paint would clump, some colors worse than others (chemistry!), and that a second coat could lift a first coat-and that was after waiting 4 or more hours, often overnight, for the paint to dry and cure.

In the meantime, I started airbrushing the Tamiya acrylics, and I bit the bullet and bought the acrylic thinner. It worked beautifully for me with airbrushing, and I found that it resolved the problems I had when hand-brushing those paints.

Let me add the disclaimer that has become necessary these days: I recognize that others may have had different and better results than I did, using water or isopropyl to thin Tamiya's acrylics. I do not dispute that someone else has a different experience. I am merely sharing my own experience.

As a followup to this story, I'll add that I've learned that for some brands, I get my best results using the manufacturer's proprietary thinner with his paint. Not always; for example, the enamels I have work fine with any brand of mineral spirits. Same goes for the lacquers I have (eg, Gunze-Sangyo) and any brand of lacquer thinners. And the water-based acrylics work for me just fine with plain ol' tap water, with my wet palette. It's just something I think of, if I look at buying paints from a brand I don't already have.

Hope that helps, too!

Best regards,
Brad

 

[Motoretrolia]

Yeah, for me, it's called being Dutchy - Pennsylvania Dutch. We're known for being cheap, er, ah, thrifty, too. But I learned that sometimes you can be too cheap for your own good.

For example, when I started thinking about thinning the Tamiya acrylics, I saw what a bottle of Tamiya's acrylic thinner cost and said to myself, "I'm not paying that!" So I experimented, first with water, and then with isopropyl. For me, neither of those produced workable results for thinning, specifically for hand-brushing. The problem I had was that the paint would clump, some colors worse than others (chemistry!), and that a second coat could lift a first coat-and that was after waiting 4 or more hours, often overnight, for the paint to dry and cure.

In the meantime, I started airbrushing the Tamiya acrylics, and I bit the bullet and bought the acrylic thinner. It worked beautifully for me with airbrushing, and I found that it resolved the problems I had when hand-brushing those paints.

Let me add the disclaimer that has become necessary these days: I recognize that others may have had different and better results than I did, using water or isopropyl to thin Tamiya's acrylics. I do not dispute that someone else has a different experience. I am merely sharing my own experience.

As a followup to this story, I'll add that I've learned that for some brands, I get my best results using the manufacturer's proprietary thinner with his paint. Not always; for example, the enamels I have work fine with any brand of mineral spirits. Same goes for the lacquers I have (eg, Gunze-Sangyo) and any brand of lacquer thinners. And the water-based acrylics work for me just fine with plain ol' tap water, with my wet palette. It's just something I think of, if I look at buying paints from a brand I don't already have.

Hope that helps, too!

Best regards,
Brad

Did you happen to try 90% alcohol on the Tamilya Acrylic paints?

 

[Jim62]

Did you happen to try 90% alcohol on the Tamilya Acrylic paints?

Like the Baron, I use Tamiya's thinner as well, but I do use the IPA to clean the airbrush. It works great for that purpose and no nasty smells like some cleaners. This thread reminds me I need to order some more thinner and pick up some more IPA.

 

[Jim62]

Such a blowhard aren't you…

I'm one not afraid to speak my mind. I could care less about the chemistry aspect of paints and thinner. You seems to be the type that always talks about it constantly. Honestly, nobody cares about the chemistry aspect of them. It's pretty much too technical for anybody to understand the difference of chemistry properties. It gets old.

My point is buy hobby paints, not arts and crafts paints. It saves the trouble of why some folks deal with craft paint issues.

As I said… each to his own. Their money, not mine. They'll find out sooon enough they're not worth the hassle. Have at it.

Momo's chemistry lessons don't bother me a bit. Someone has to have all that knowledge and it's nice to have the info available if needed. It also makes for interesting reading, but I'd appreciate you not speaking for everyone with your "nobody cares", That's a bold statement unless you have conducted a poll of every active member.

 

[the Baron]

Did you happen to try 90% alcohol on the Tamilya Acrylic paints?

Yes, 91% solution, actually, from the drugstore. Trust me, for me, Tamiya's own thinner works best, for thinning the paint.
Isopropyl does work well for cleaning the brushes, though, removing the residue that can accumulate in the ferrule. I also blow it through the airbrush after shooting Tamiya acrylics.

 

[Motoretrolia]

Yes, 91% solution, actually, from the drugstore. Trust me, for me, Tamiya's own thinner works best, for thinning the paint.
Isopropyl does work well for cleaning the brushes, though, removing the residue that can accumulate in the ferrule. I also blow it through the airbrush after shooting Tamiya acrylics.

Thanks for the info, was just wondering considering the cost differential. I picked up some Tamiya thinner yesterday.