Primer and Paint Compatibility

I am sure there is a good reason to do this. But if I can get a primer I like (which I can now do with stynylrez) I don't know why I would buy a spray can of primer and then decant it. And don't you still have to spray it to decant it? Which means you still need a fume hood.
By decanting i can get more paint for less cash without shortage problems and there are many color options. And through decanting process you get rid off propellant gas which means there will be standard fume as other paints. Your stynylrez also creates fumes.
 
Seems costly. Why not just buy the bottled primer for a fraction of the cost?
I don't know where you live, aerosol cans comes more economical in my country if i consider paint quantity/cash. No need to argue about that, costs changes in every country
 
By decanting i can get more paint for less cash without shortage problems and there are many color options. And through decanting process you get rid off propellant gas which means there will be standard fume as other paints. Your stynylrez also creates fumes.
stynylrez is water based polyurethane. No toxic fumes. I would still need a place to decant. I see your logic, but it does not work for me.
 
I don't know where you live, aerosol cans comes more economical in my country if i consider paint quantity/cash. No need to argue about that, costs changes in every country

I'm sure that could be the case. A 100ml spray can costs less than a 10ml bottle where you are? What country?
 
stynylrez is water based polyurethane. No toxic fumes. I would still need a place to decant. I see your logic, but it does not work for me.
stynylrez is water based polyurethane. No toxic fumes. I would still need a place to decant. I see your logic, but it does not work for me.

Yeah, Tamiya spray cans are lacquer based. So, unless you're decanting outside, then you should have appropriate respirator and ventilation inside…and if you have those - then why not just airbrush the bottled lacquer paints in the first place?
 
By the way, if you're actually going to use all that paint, decanting a Tamiya spray can will get you about 40ml of lacquer paint, which is obviously four times as much as one of their 10ml LP jars.

Sometimes it needs to be thinned with lacquer thinner. Sometimes not.
 
stynylrez is water based polyurethane. No toxic fumes. I would still need a place to decant. I see your logic, but it does not work for me.
I also use vallejo polyurethane primers, i really like them but they're expensive where i live. When i decant i open my window and wear a simple N95 respirator to prevent particulates as i don't have a spray booth with an aspirator. If you want to stay on safe side you can put a hose at the top of the cup where you decant paint and if you put the other side of the hose to the outside, the hose will drain all propellant and throw it out. Or maybe you shouldn't decant at all.
 
I'm sure that could be the case. A 100ml spray can costs less than a 10ml bottle where you are? What country?
I mostly use Hardware store stuff (acrylic ones). Aerosol can costs more than 10 ml bottle but, gives about 200 ml paint, also mostly i don't need thinning for the brand which i use, it has an ideal consistency for airbrushing, only disadvantage is, it's harder to clean from airbrush than standard acrylic paints.
 
I mostly use Hardware store stuff (acrylic ones). Aerosol can costs more than 10 ml bottle but, gives about 200 ml paint, also mostly i don't need thinning for the brand which i use, it has an ideal consistency for airbrushing, only disadvantage is, it's harder to clean from airbrush than standard acrylic paints.

What size are the cans you're getting 200ml out of?
 
What size are the cans you're getting 200ml out of?
400 ml cans, it's written on can that it's 400 ml but i think think that 200 ml is propellant and other 200 ml is paint. I've never got 400 ml paint from 400 ml aerosol can from any brand.
 
Hardware store spray can paints can literally melt a plastic model. they're too "hot".

Some paints absolutely require primers, and priming is good practice anyway for several reasons including normalizing an entire model surface or spotting defects (inadequately sanded sections, ghost seams, etc) before laying down a color coat.
Says who? I've used it on several model kits with zero issues. Rustoleum spray paints are enamel, not lacquer.
 
Says who? I've used it on several model kits with zero issues. Rustoleum spray paints are enamel, not lacquer.

And yet they still contain up to 50% acetone and 25% butyl acetate (which you'll find are the two ingredients in Tamiya Extra Thin plastic cement) and also appear in most lacquers, plus a host of other hot chemicals such as xylene.

This is an MSDS for Rustoleum High Performance Enamel Spray. You can see they lead off with "Extremely Flammable". The ingredients are listed below.

https://www.rustoleum.com/MSDS/ENGLISH/7524838.pdf
 
And yet they still contain up to 50% acetone and 25% butyl acetate (which you'll find are the two ingredients in Tamiya Extra Thin plastic cement) and also appear in most lacquers, plus a host of other hot chemicals such as xylene.

This is an MSDS for Rustoleum High Performance Enamel Spray. You can see they lead off with "Extremely Flammable". The ingredients are listed below.

https://www.rustoleum.com/MSDS/ENGLISH/7524838.pdf
Blah, blah, blah…. And am I suppose to care and concerned? Pffftt…I've been building model kits for 45-50 years since I was 6; using rattle can paints since I was 8. All rattle can paints are flammable regardless of brand be it Rustoleum, Krylon, Testors (both enamel and lacquer), Tamiya, Duplicoat, etc… Not one single model kit has melted using Rustoleum spray paint.

I don't use Rustoleum High Performance Enamel Spray so your argument is irrelevant to me.
 
...I don't use Rustoleum High Performance Enamel Spray so your argument is irrelevant to me.
I used to use Rustoleum, especially their primers, but I got too many cans that clogged and ended up with half a can of paint that wouldn't come out. No more.
 
I used to use Rustoleum, especially their primers, but I got too many cans that clogged and ended up with half a can of paint that wouldn't come out. No more.
Soak the nozzle cap in lacquer thinner. Works for me. Or swap nozzle cap from another spray can. All easy fixes.
 
Soak the nozzle cap in lacquer thinner. Works for me. Or swap nozzle cap from another spray can. All easy fixes.
Not in this case. They changed the design of the cap, and apparently the neck of the can. That's where the clog occurs.

I did try cleaning the cap first, in any case. But at the first use, the nozzle and neck clogged again.

Eventually, I went online to see if others had the same issue. I found posts across various forums and blogs where it was discussed. Along with trying to clean out the cap, some tried drilling the passage in the cap, to increase the volume and reduce the possibility that paint clogs it. But like I said, the issue is in the neck of the can, where the cap is inserted.

Rather than screw around with this, I just don't use Rustoleum primer anymore. Or Walmart's house brand automotive primer-their cans have the same design and the same issue.

It's not that big a deal, not to use Rustoleum on my models and figures, especially since it was really just out of overblown frugality. I switched to using Tamiya's Fine Surface Primer instead.
 

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