Primer, Paint and Clear Coat Questions...

Belugawrx said:
Just saying, I've had some bad reactions with it on Testors enamels...try it
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I have Tamiya Paneliner too -in black and brown. In my experience, I've had zero issues using it on enamels, lacquers and acrylics. Maybe yours reacted badly on Dupilcolor paint.

Honestly, I think that Duplicolor stuff is over-rated and very expensive. I have a can of the stuff and I'm not really that impressed with them. For auto colors, I'd rather spend it on MCW Finishes instead. They airbrush beautifully.
 
Belugawrx said:
I've used Duplicolor primers and paints for years, never a problem..be careful with the Tamiya panel accent, it does not like enamels!!
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I got to thinking about your comment. I do have one question though…. did you spray a coat of clear prior to using paneliner or did you apply the paneliner before spraying a coat of clear?

I'm suspecting you didn't spray a clearcoat prior to using paneliner.
 
BlackSheepTwoOneFour said:
I got to thinking about your comment. I do have one question though…. did you spray a coat of clear prior to using paneliner or did you apply the paneliner before spraying a coat of clear?

I'm suspecting you didn't spray a clearcoat prior to using paneliner.
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Yes. The paint has to be glossy when you use panel line paint otherwise the surrounding paint will "absorb" it.
 
Not a fan using Future as a clearcoat. You've got a nice finish now. Why ruin it with brushing Future. As long as you've got a nice glossy finish, you don't need a gloss clearcoat.
 
BlackSheepTwoOneFour said:
Not a fan using Future as a clearcoat. You've got a nice finish now. Why ruin it with brushing Future. As long as you've got a nice glossy finish, you don't need a gloss clearcoat.
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I plan to use the wide stripe decals included (white or black, can't decide). How about after that? Assuming I don't &*%$ the decals first.
20231112_202525.jpg
 
C.A. Whitecloud said:
View attachment 108676View attachment 108677

Preferences? Pros/Cons. Tips/Tricks? *no airbrush
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Please do not use either of those on a scale model.

I can't understand why people put Pledge on their models. Pledge is for floors.

And that Rust O Leum. That stuff is for larger project. That spray can sprays put like a fire hose. Yes, you might have some success with it, but it is not made for scale models.

If you do not have an airbrush I suggest Mr Super Clear spray cans. That stuff is amazing. It is so good, I have an airbrush and I still use it sometimes because then I don't have to clean out my airbrush. And the results are amazing. Tamiya gloss clear is a very close second. Also a great spray clear.
 
scalebuilderchad said:
I can't understand why people put Pledge on their models. Pledge is for floors....
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Because it's a clear acrylic liquid, it's cheaper than gloss coat products from the model supply companies, and because they get results with it that please them.
I use it for gloss-coating before applying decals. I also use it on my toy soldiers, which I paint with matte acrylics. I use Future to get the traditional gloss finish associated with toy soldiers. I also find that the colors take on a richness, once the clear acrylic is applied.
I also use it to dip clear parts. The clear liquid fills the fine scratches in the surface and improves the clarity.
Future can be applied by hand or airbrushed. It's self-leveling. If airbrushing, it can be airbrushed without thinner, thinned with isopropyl, even with water. If you make a mistake and apply too much, if there is pooling, you can use a weak ammonia solution, eg, glass cleaners, to liquify it again, wick away the excess with a paper towel, then let it cure again.
So those are some reasons why people put it on their models.
The only negative I can see is that it will discolor a little, a kind of very pale yellow, over time. I haven't noticed this with the finish itself, just the liquid in the bottle.
But to each his own.
 
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You could do what is called flow coating. But it take a little practice.

Flow coating is when you thin your clearcoat a little bit more than normal before you apply it. The idea is that since it is thinner it will settle into the texture of the paint better and level out on top. This is a lowrider paint job trick. When they lay down a ton of metal flake, the paint is actually rough. They apply a ton of clearcoat, then they do a final flow coat to smooth it out.
 
scalebuilderchad said:
Please do not use either of those on a scale model.

I can't understand why people put Pledge on their models. Pledge is for floors.
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Believe me when I tell you this, it does wonders fixing cloudy windshields and aircraft canopies if a builder used CA or superglue on them CA/superglue fogs clear parts. Would I use it to as a gloss coat? No. As one already mentioned… it turns yellow over time.
scalebuilderchad said:
And that Rust O Leum. That stuff is for larger project. That spray can sprays put like a fire hose. Yes, you might have some success with it, but it is not made for scale models.
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As I mentioned before… I've been building model kits for 50 years. I've used hardware store rattlecans and Testors rattlecans - both colors and clearcoats over the years. I've figured out what works and what doesn't work for me over the years. Yes, hardware store rattlecan paints can be used on plastic. Heck, I've used them on my car models in the 70s. I still use it now; nowadays preferably Rustoleum 2x colors and clears (gloss, flat and satin). Very rare I have issues with them. You just got to know how to tame them to get that nice coat. Don't spray too close, spray in several light coats from at least 12 inches or more away, but never go slow on your passes. Definitely don't spray in cold, windy weather or very humid weather conditions. It's all about experimenting and learning.

Krylon isn't what it used to be and that's why I won't use Krylon period.

Rustoleum 2x primers sprays really nice. I often use it because it's economical to use. I only use two primer colors - white and grey.

And yes, I do have an airbrush - 3 of them in fact.

In closing, stop telling folks that Rustoleum paints are not made for plastic! Yes, they are! I irritates me to no end hearing/reading these paint "experts or snobs" making statements that they're not. I think it's a matter of choice of the builder to choose.
scalebuilderchad said:
If you do not have an airbrush I suggest Mr Super Clear spray cans. That stuff is amazing. It is so good, I have an airbrush and I still use it sometimes because then I don't have to clean out my airbrush. And the results are amazing. Tamiya gloss clear is a very close second. Also a great spray clear.
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I've never used either so I can't comment on them. I'm sure they're both good products. As of late, I use Testors Gloss and Flat clearcoats on all my aircraft model kits via airbrush and am happy with them.
 
BlackSheepTwoOneFour said:
Believe me when I tell you this, it does wonders fixing cloudy windshields and aircraft canopies if a builder used CA or superglue on them CA/superglue fogs clear parts. Would I use it to as a gloss coat? No. As one already mentioned… it turns yellow over time.

As I mentioned before… I've been building model kits for 50 years. I've used hardware store rattlecans and Testors rattlecans - both colors and clearcoats over the years. I've figured out what works and what doesn't work for me over the years. Yes, hardware store rattlecan paints can be used on plastic. Heck, I've used them on my car models in the 70s. I still use it now; nowadays preferably Rustoleum 2x colors and clears (gloss, flat and satin). Very rare I have issues with them. You just got to know how to tame them to get that nice coat. Don't spray too close, spray in several light coats from at least 12 inches or more away, but never go slow on your passes. Definitely don't spray in cold, windy weather or very humid weather conditions. It's all about experimenting and learning.

Krylon isn't what it used to be and that's why I won't use Krylon period.

Rustoleum 2x primers sprays really nice. I often use it because it's economical to use. I only use two primer colors - white and grey.

And yes, I do have an airbrush - 3 of them in fact.

In closing, stop telling folks that Rustoleum paints are not made for plastic! Yes, they are! I irritates me to no end hearing/reading these paint "experts or snobs" making statements that they're not. I think it's a matter of choice of the builder to choose.


I've never used either so I can't comment on them. I'm sure they're both good products. As of late, I use Testors Gloss and Flat clearcoats on all my aircraft model kits via airbrush and am happy with them.
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I never said Rust Oleum paints are not made for plastic. I said they are not made for these small scale models because they spray too much paint. You even admit that.

You talk about how you have a special technique because you know Rust Oleum paint spray too much paint.

This is why I tell people to buy paints from companies like Tamiya and Mr Hobby. They are specifically made for painting scale models. They atomize the paint better, and they release less paint at once so you can have much better contol over your paint job.

And when you have more control over your paint, guess what? Consistanly great results are easy. Would you want great paint jobs to be easy?
 
If you spray in several light coats with Rustoleum, you can get a nice finish. Just don't spray too close.

Again… 50 years using various rattlecan from Rustoleum to Testors & Tamiya, you figure out how to spray without getting a heavy coat.
 

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