SMA What's New In Your Stash?!?

In what terms? Product range, typical kit prices, quality of moulding, ease of construction?

I'll assume you mean the latter two :) Molding quality is generally pretty good, no flash and the parts fit together well or even tightly. Takom's major problem is their instructions: they are well-drawn and clear, but nobody at the company seems to have ever built an actual model kit — they seemingly only assemble them on a computer and base their instructions on that.

For example, in their M29 Weasel kits, they have you build the suspension like this:

Takom M29 Weasel suspension.jpeg

This doesn't seem too bad, but you will need to know that each of those little roadwheels, bottom centre, is about 6 mm diameter and at best, 1 mm thick. On a computer, they of course fit perfectly on the axles, while IRL they wobble all over the place, which makes it exceedingly difficult to line all 64 of them up properly. And only once those wheels are on the suspension beam, do they want you to add the pivots (A19 and A21, bottom right) around that beam, which is extremely fiddly: A19 is a little triangular piece maybe 2 mm on a side.

Next step is to add these assemblies to the hull, to which you've attached leaf springs and connecting rods in the previous step of the instructions, and the track goes on in the next step. However, there is no positive locating pin at all to ensure those springs and rods are at the correct angle relative to the hull — and no, the leaf springs don't go all the way against the bump stops, a mistake many people building this kit make because they have never been in a position to take photos like this:

E895C257-B35D-4FC3-BFED-C954B4D29491_1_105_c.jpeg

The end result is a suspension that is almost impossible to put together as it should, really because in a computer everything will line up fine. But a plastic kit is not the same as the parts for it on a computer screen :)

Okay, I admit this is an extreme example of a kit of a very small vehicle (an M29 Weasel is the size of a Willys Jeep) with a very intricate, delicate suspension with too many fiddly parts. More generally, my point remains that if you build a Takom kit, you should look very carefully at the instructions and decide if you want to follow their build sequence or if doing so will make things difficult later on. Anything they have you build as a subassembly, you shoud look at whether this is actually doable, or if you'd rather build it in situ, or perhaps fit it earlier or later than you're directed to.

Aside from that, though, I like Takom kits :) They build quite well, even if they sometimes include parts that are a little too intricate, and they do subjects hardly anybody else even contemplates.
 
In what terms? Product range, typical kit prices, quality of moulding, ease of construction?

I'll assume you mean the latter two :) Molding quality is generally pretty good, no flash and the parts fit together well or even tightly. Takom's major problem is their instructions: they are well-drawn and clear, but nobody at the company seems to have ever built an actual model kit — they seemingly only assemble them on a computer and base their instructions on that.

For example, in their M29 Weasel kits, they have you build the suspension like this:

View attachment 137469

This doesn't seem too bad, but you will need to know that each of those little roadwheels, bottom centre, is about 6 mm diameter and at best, 1 mm thick. On a computer, they of course fit perfectly on the axles, while IRL they wobble all over the place, which makes it exceedingly difficult to line all 64 of them up properly. And only once those wheels are on the suspension beam, do they want you to add the pivots (A19 and A21, bottom right) around that beam, which is extremely fiddly: A19 is a little triangular piece maybe 2 mm on a side.

Next step is to add these assemblies to the hull, to which you've attached leaf springs and connecting rods in the previous step of the instructions, and the track goes on in the next step. However, there is no positive locating pin at all to ensure those springs and rods are at the correct angle relative to the hull — and no, the leaf springs don't go all the way against the bump stops, a mistake many people building this kit make because they have never been in a position to take photos like this:

View attachment 137470

The end result is a suspension that is almost impossible to put together as it should, really because in a computer everything will line up fine. But a plastic kit is not the same as the parts for it on a computer screen :)

Okay, I admit this is an extreme example of a kit of a very small vehicle (an M29 Weasel is the size of a Willys Jeep) with a very intricate, delicate suspension with too many fiddly parts. More generally, my point remains that if you build a Takom kit, you should look very carefully at the instructions and decide if you want to follow their build sequence or if doing so will make things difficult later on. Anything they have you build as a subassembly, you shoud look at whether this is actually doable, or if you'd rather build it in situ, or perhaps fit it earlier or later than you're directed to.

Aside from that, though, I like Takom kits :) They build quite well, even if they sometimes include parts that are a little too intricate, and they do subjects hardly anybody else even contemplates.
I fully agree. TAKOM kits are very detailed, the fit is very good but with many small parts and instructions not always well engineered, printed a bit too small (at least to my eyes). A thorough study of the instruction is a must throughout the building process and dry fit of sub-assemblies is recommended. IMHO that is their most evident area for improvement.
 
In what terms? Product range, typical kit prices, quality of moulding, ease of construction?
Yes, sorry for not being specific, I always mean quality of casting and fit.

Instructions are important of course, I've found Zoukei Mura to be over the top good in that regard, but the fit of their kits late in the build has been an issue on the only two I've worked with. The worst instructions so far I've encountered was (is since I'm still working on it) on the only Trumpeter kit I've built, largely as you describe, just a drawing where you get to figure out the order and the details. But the instructions also (as in my 1/35 BB) indicate assembling things out of order, I guess they expect the customer to have more experience than I did on battleships. I do often assemble aircraft kits slightly out of order since I do have it.

Generally I do not mind a high part count or complexity, as long as they fit, but I have seen that taken to extreme sometimes.
 
I hardly ever build kits in the order the instructions want me to anyway :) I see them more as a guide to where the parts go, than showing the best order to assemble them in. Which has bitten me once or twice, most recently with the Bandai Star Wars B-Wing, but in general, I find it's often easier My Way™ than the manufacturer's :)
 
Based on your stash you seem like someone qualified to ask...

Where is Takom on the chart compared to Tamiya, as a manufacturer?
Tamiya kits have excellent quality and go together very well. They are somewhat siimplified and lack things like zimmerit and pe. TAKOM kits are more detailed, provide zimmerit and engine screens. You are usually able to build one of several versions of the vehicle. They go together very well but sometimes need a bit of putty. I love TAKOM kits. I like Tamiya kits as well. The newer Tamiya kits are amazing.
 
Currently have Academy 1/350 USS Indianapolis on the workbench and the only stash I will have is Very Fire's 1/350 IJN Yamato Deluxe kit once I receive it.
1000013370.jpg

Edit: Estimated delivery is Mar 4th, which can't come soon enough when you have been waiting since mid January for the kit...lol.
 
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Curious what the Loctite is for?
Seem to have every other type of glue, got a small tube to find out.
It is great for metal to metal... maybe some PE application?

If not, it will get sent to the workbench in the basement!
 
Seem to have every other type of glue, got a small tube to find out.
It is great for metal to metal... maybe some PE application?

If not, it will get sent to the workbench in the basement!
Not a glue per se. It's a thread sealer made to dampen vibration.
From the Loctite website: For a hold that can be easily removed, Loctite Threadlocker Blue 242 is the hero. It's perfect for motorized and nonmotorized parts that need occasional servicing, like car parts (oil pans, water pumps, etc), or even motorized yard equipment, bicycles, furniture and much more.
 
Currently have Academy 1/350 USS Indianapolis on the workbench and the only stash I will have is Very Fire's 1/350 IJN Yamato Deluxe kit once I receive it.
I am really enjoying my 1/350th scale build, looking forward to your updates on that tragic cruiser. I looked up the "Very Fire" kit, looks like a normal Trumpter kits with two add-on Pontos kits thrown in. You're a beast for tackling that!

I'm thinking this might be my next boat, recommended by a friend on here.
 
@Edbert I know that Trumpeter has a new 1/200 Yamato, which is a nice kit, but in comparison to the Very Fire, the tooling and actual molding to that actual ship plans are much closer and included a lot more detail. I built Tamiya's original 1/350 Yamato moons ago and there was so much modifications that were needed that I was kind of disappointed in the end. The great thing about the Very Fire is all the corrections have been made, high detail 3D resin parts for intricate parts have been added, all the photo etch you could imagine, and brass barrels and main mast. It will be a monster project, but it's streamlined compared to all the scratch building and modifications you would have to do to other kits. I've been waiting for years for someone to do better for Yamato and Musashi which is finally here...lol.

So what ship did your friend recommend?

PS Updates on the Indy should be up I hope in a few more days. I have the hull halves together, cleaning up the seam and applying the needed PE before I clean up the decks and set them in place. The hull is always a time consumer to start unless the kit is a one piece hull that only needs minimal clean up. Even though Academy's kit is two piece, it's not that bad if you weren't going extra with the Pontos set.
 

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