Sonic Cleaner - Question

[Daf57]

Good thread! At first I was thinking these guys must not be cleaning good between sessions (no offense!) but I got to looking really close at my brushes and dang there is crud in there. Especially in the throat of the bowl.

So I'm in for an USC too! I'm thinking of getting the same one Ian and Dkev got. Will let you know how it goes. Again - great thread - thanks!

Daf

 

[Glorfindel]

I don't think your airbrush is in Windex long enough to do any damage to the seals. Most of the time mine go through 2, 8 min cycles, and that is it. I don't let them soak in the Windex any more than that.

Been using mine for a few years, and hasn't harmed the seals. There is so little ammonia in Windex that I don't think there would be any harm.

Now if you were using straight ammonia, might be another thing. Then again, buy a bottle of Acrylic cleaner, like Vallejo's AB cleaner, and just use that bottle for your sonic cleaner. When done, pour it back in the bottle, and use it again next time. If you are worried about sediment in it, run it through a coffee filter first.

Didnt Ken from Badger in his video he put on here sometime ago say that Windex should never touch an airbrush ? Also the only time you should do a full tear down is if you have a specific problem or it has sat without being used for a longer period of time ? I never got the UC because of that but if its beneficial to the airbrush and daily care then Im all for it and all in.

Yes he did. But he also said that you can use an USC to clean it out. Water, or better yet Airbrush Cleaner being the best choices. In defense of Windex the amount of ammonia in it is a fraction to that of using ammonia straight up. Also it is worth noting that an USC is to be used in accordance to how much you spray. Even if you get 10 hours a week of spraying time through your AB your probably in line to partially break it down and use the USC maybe once every two/three months. Even then it's only in solution for perhaps two 8 minute cycles at a time. The amount of ammonia in Windex would have no bearing on the seals and O-rings as they are solvent resistant. Ammonia is a tick past grapefruit juice by comparison. OK, maybe that's an exaggeration but it sounds pretty good.
Also Airbrush Cleaner isn't cheap. And keep in mind you can dilute the Windex 50% with warm water, that's what I do, and it works just fine.

 

[Subhuman1]

This is one of the last few pieces I am seriously considering for myself as well. I have one question for those of you who have found one of these machines useful for you A/B maintenance (and other assorted odd jobs SWMBO's jewelry etc ;D ) white size of units did you get? And secondly, heated or un heated versions, anything gained by opting for the heated versions?

 

[Elm City Hobbies]

I honestly didn't know there was a choice of heated or non heated. I just figured that the vibrations warmed the liquid up on it's own.

As far as size, mind I can put an airbrush not broken down in the basket and still have room left over length wise, mine is probably 8" or so long...maybe 4" or so wide. Best guess without going upstairs to measure the USC.

 

[Glorfindel]

Subhuman I think it's a question on how much cash you want to throw at it. Heated units cost more then non-heated ones. I really don't know the price difference. And to be honest I bought mine from Harbor Freights for under $25 and it works fine. I think though the higher the wattage the better it cleans but your still in to wiping off primer first before putting the AB in to the USC. Even low watt units will take out any grit/grime/most tiny amounts of dried paint and so forth. Just run some extra cycles for a deeper clean.

 

[Subhuman1]

yeah, I agree. And personally, I don't want to take out a bank loan for some huge machine either ;D big enough to hold an AB and good enough.

So one question, you guys who are using a USC, do you disassemble your AB's before running them through the machine, or do a partial strip? (that may sound like a ridiculous question, but I have never used or seen a USC in action, so I have no first hand knowledge of how effective they are).

 

[Ian]

I'd strip it for better effectiveness.

 

[Elm City Hobbies]

I strip mine also, but my Badger 200 was so gummed up I couldn't strip it, which is how I know my USC is big enough to put an un-stripped AB into it.

2 cycles and it had loosened up the gunk enough to get the 200 apart, then another 2 cycles to do a thorough cleaning, and just like new....lol, and I don't think I have used it since!

 

[Subhuman1]

Oh man all that work fer nuthin' eh? ;D

 

[Elm City Hobbies]

Meh...good for a back up if parts break on another.

 

[Glorfindel]

Mostly a partial breakdown. What I mean by that is everything gets disassemble except for the trigger being removed. I pull out the needle, end nut, tip, and nozzle then place them in to the USC. I'll then put the rest of the body in there too being careful not to disturb the trigger. I throw the rear end of the AB in there too just because it comes out all shiny and new.
For me a total break down is removing the trigger as well as the trigger spring mechanism. That's the toughest part because getting the trigger set in to place is tricky and takes some attempts. In the end I put a few drops of Needle Juice on the needle and in to the trigger hallow and depress the button until it feels smooth. Partial breakdown once every 8-12 weeks depending how often I'm painting/modeling. Full breakdown maybe twice a year at best. I would do it more though if I came in to some sputtering or other shooting problems that I couldn't figure out.

 

[wyoroy]

Got mine in the mail today. Cleaned my AB, tweezers and anything else I could fit. My stuff looks all shiny 8)

 

[adampolo13]

Got mine in the mail today. Cleaned my AB, tweezers and anything else I could fit. My stuff looks all shiny 8)

It's kinda fun isn't it? ;D

 

[wyoroy]

Yes it is ;D