STYNYLREZ Primers.

LOL , after posting my last reply to Eagle-1 , I scooped up the 3 bottles of it I have on the shelf - which I had moved to the back behind everything else -- and moved them to one of the refrigerators . Never too late to take one's own advice ;)

You know what they say, "If'n ya' want somethin' done right..."
 
" You know what they say, "If'n ya' want somethin' done right..." "
Hire someone that knows what they're doing !
 
" You know what they say, "If'n ya' want somethin' done right..." "
Hire someone that knows what they're doing !
I have a slew of home projects that wouldn't exist if the previous home owner would've followed THIS adage, lol

That being said, I'm going to hire for at least some of them, lol.
 
Ok boys...

I would say Stynylrez will absolutely get the job did. This is the GRAY I showed earlier mixed 10 parts Stynylrez with 1 part Mr. Color 400
Leveling Thinner just to mainly slow down the cure and not so much for the viscosity thinning. I wanted to slow it down a little strictly because the detail on this Moebius Battlestar Galactica is very tiny. I've been worried about ruining all this work during the painting process, but I have NO concerns about that anymore.

I am pleasantly pleased with these results.
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What's y'all's opinion?
 
What's in the 400 leveling thinner ?

2-propanol
isobutyl alcohol
Ethanol
2-btoxy

There's several more on the bottle Mr. urumomo, but theres a indication by each set of a couple like this one label gets used on many bottles? Like T103, T104 Mr. Color Thinner 2-propanol isobutyl alcohol Ethanol 2-btoxy.
 
Another hurdle with this would be, does it suck down tighter after it's cured and can you tape it?

Sucks down pretty good after only 12 hours and that SHOULD get even better. Y'all know what I mean by "suck down", right? What I'm talking about would be that it... I don't know how to describe it... shows the details a little better and appear thinner than it does just after painting? Anyway, it's doing just fine in my opinion.

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For this test, another important one "in my opinion". I'm testing this a little too soon for my liking, but even this should improve with more time. I mainly use "3M Blue Painters Tape" and "FROG" brand tape, mostly sticking to 3M Blue. FROG can grab pretty good and I don't use as much of it as 3M JUST because it's a good chance it'll pull paint off.

This pleases me.

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I smashed 'em down fairly good on both and run my finger over both several times as can be seen by the detail lumps showing through the tape. I eased both off like you're suppose to remove tape and smooshed it back on and YANKED it off. Both sticky sides are in the pictures. I got 'er zoomed in pretty good and y'all can see, not one speck. Now, we all know, there'll be a time it will come off with tape. After only 12 hours of cure, these results are promising though.

Next, does it sand and does that area feather.

Promising results there too which I know will improve with time.

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Their curing is accelerated with exposure to light .
Frequency of that light ? I can't say , but let's assume it's in the range of what we find to be normal in our lives .
I don't know about temperature - I think it's more sensitive to exposure to " light " .

LOL , after posting my last reply to Eagle-1 , I scooped up the 3 bottles of it I have on the shelf - which I had moved to the back behind everything else -- and moved them to one of the refrigerators . Never too late to take one's own advice ;)
I must be lucky or doing something right. My Synylrez is still good after 2 years. Been sitting for that time in a fairly cool place without any direct sun or artificial light. All the Vallejo acrylics seem to have faired well to other than settling out.
 
I've heard a lot of mixed reviews on Stynylrez primers. One of the reasons I use Rustoleum 2X primers is it sprays wonderfully and super smooth. Oh yeah…. it last a long time too.
 
I've had my bottles of Stynylrez for about 4 years now. They were kept in a room that temps stayed 60-66 degrees with minimal sunlight. They are starting to show some again but still no problems using them. I personally love the stuff. I have even used the black as the final color because I like the finish. It seems to grabs and levels well and sprays great. Both black and gray brush on pretty good, and not surprising white I try to stay away from brushing on. The white does much better sprayed on. I have used both acrylic and enamel paints over it with no problems yet. This has become my go-to primer, it is more expensive than most but to me it is worth it. For better and worse, do not expect this primer to hide defects or blemishes like a lot of other primers can. If there is a scratch you don't like before you prime you will want to take care of it first. When mixing, it takes a far amount of agitation to get it fully mixed. There is one shop here that stocks a small collection, I want to try the metal primer they have in stock one of these days.

Broken down my experience, as long as you don't need to hide any blemishes I have no complaints. Does not seam to hide any details.
 
My go-to primer has always been Rustoleum 2 in 1 I rattle can. Cheaper and never had issues using the stuff for several years now. Cheaper and lasts than Stynylrez. Never had issues losing details either.

I guess it's from years of knowing how to use a rattlecan paint is the reason why.
 
I've used it with good results. I have heard complaints from folks that ordered it and got it delivered during cold weather and apparently it doesn't like the cold.
 

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