T34/76
- Thread starter Junkie
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fubar
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As a newbie to armour models is it best to assemble the whole model before painting except for tracks or is it best to paint in stages and leave the wheels off so it's easy to paint behind them?
Any way i'm looking forwards to following the build.
TTFN Matt
Any way i'm looking forwards to following the build.
TTFN Matt
Junkie
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Hopefully I'll get some time...maybe tomorrow. Gonna try to use the AK Russian Color Mod set on this and then late spring white wash.
Fubar...I'm a rookie armor builder...but I'm really getting into it. I have this built but the turret comes off and the wheels too. I'll paint those separately and then attach before weathering. Same goes for some of the accessories too, like spare tracks etc...
Fubar...I'm a rookie armor builder...but I'm really getting into it. I have this built but the turret comes off and the wheels too. I'll paint those separately and then attach before weathering. Same goes for some of the accessories too, like spare tracks etc...
scratchmod
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Nice clean and quick build there Scott. I think you'll like the 4BO CM set. You don't have to use all the colors. I used three colors, 32-34. The gray primer that comes with it is very good and I have been using it on all my models now.
fubar
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I have always liked the T-34's shape, i never realized how wide and low they were, very mean looking in the flesh, until i saw one at the Bovington Tank Museum last month. They have built lots of new exhibit's there now and if your able to go its well worth the visit. I plan to go again in the new year and take a quality camera with me this time. 8)
Junkie
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Man I sure love building models. What a fun experience that was.
So I'll start this post with a few comments.
1. This is my first attempt at painting a tank.
2. This is my first attempt at color modulation.
3. Please give me some honest feedback. I want to learn. I am not a baby.
4. Do not allow #1 and #2 to influence #3.
5. See #3.
I want to thank Iain @ AK Interactive USA for the 4BO Russian Green Special Modulation Set. The quality of the paint is very, very good and what I've come to expect from Vallejo (this product includes Vallejo Paint that was formulated under the direction of AK Interactive). It is very similar to the Model Air line and the primer is especially nice and smooth - great shade too.
The palette of colors is fantastic and you have more than enough paint to complete many projects. The step-by-step illustrations on the reverse of the package is a nice touch and certainly helped me approach this session. I used the complete range of colors saving the final coat of Satin Varnish for tomorrow.
If you're into Russian Armor do yourself a favor; CLICK HERE and order this set today. You won't be disappointed.
All painting was done using a Badger Patriot 105 at 18psi. I drank 2 cups of coffee during this paint session. I also took the garbage to the curb mid-way through.
So I'll start this post with a few comments.
1. This is my first attempt at painting a tank.
2. This is my first attempt at color modulation.
3. Please give me some honest feedback. I want to learn. I am not a baby.
4. Do not allow #1 and #2 to influence #3.
5. See #3.
I want to thank Iain @ AK Interactive USA for the 4BO Russian Green Special Modulation Set. The quality of the paint is very, very good and what I've come to expect from Vallejo (this product includes Vallejo Paint that was formulated under the direction of AK Interactive). It is very similar to the Model Air line and the primer is especially nice and smooth - great shade too.
The palette of colors is fantastic and you have more than enough paint to complete many projects. The step-by-step illustrations on the reverse of the package is a nice touch and certainly helped me approach this session. I used the complete range of colors saving the final coat of Satin Varnish for tomorrow.
If you're into Russian Armor do yourself a favor; CLICK HERE and order this set today. You won't be disappointed.
All painting was done using a Badger Patriot 105 at 18psi. I drank 2 cups of coffee during this paint session. I also took the garbage to the curb mid-way through.
NecronautDrummer
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The color contrast looks pretty stark right now. It reminds me more of a 28mm miniature painting technique (where the small scale requires some stark highlighting and shadows to create a believable highlight/midtone/shadow transition), rather than a 1/35 scale technique (which would allow you to be more subtle). Will the contrast get toned down in further steps?
Can't deny the skill of the builder, though! Hope that's honest enough for you. ;D
Can't deny the skill of the builder, though! Hope that's honest enough for you. ;D
Tony lee
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Hi Scott
I'm no expert on modulation but I have researched it and the idea behind it is to simulate the sun shining on the surface from some angle of your choosing, high lights and shadows and not just spray willy nilly.
I haven't tried it myself,still hung up on just panel fading. You can take what I just said with a grain of salt if you like.
Good Luck
Tony lee
I'm no expert on modulation but I have researched it and the idea behind it is to simulate the sun shining on the surface from some angle of your choosing, high lights and shadows and not just spray willy nilly.
I haven't tried it myself,still hung up on just panel fading. You can take what I just said with a grain of salt if you like.
Good Luck
Tony lee
Junkie
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Thanks for the feedback guys.
@NecronautDrummer - stark contrast...yup. It will be toned down with weathering.
@ Tony - willy nilly...LOL. I forgot the photo where I put the kit in the dryer and poured the paint in. LOL. But seriously, yes I've seen some folks choose a specific location of the sun...and others highlight panels individually all around the piece. I kinda tried somewhere in the middle.
@NecronautDrummer - stark contrast...yup. It will be toned down with weathering.
@ Tony - willy nilly...LOL. I forgot the photo where I put the kit in the dryer and poured the paint in. LOL. But seriously, yes I've seen some folks choose a specific location of the sun...and others highlight panels individually all around the piece. I kinda tried somewhere in the middle.
collin26
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- May 1, 2010
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- 61
Scott,
If that is trully your first go at it, you are on the right track man.
You will notice ( as well as others following the thread ) how different the lighter shades & darker shades will look after weathering & any other effects used to manipulate the base color.
Filters alone ( applied BEFORE a satin coat while the base colors are still flat and have more tooth ) will change the appearance radically and tone down some of the transitions. A satin coat will also serve to smooth the transitions by virtue of its reflective properties as well.
The trick is ( And I am not always the ace when it comes to this ) is that the CM technique is not blatantly obvious on the finished model.
As you move on to the weathering, be sure to keep track of how the model looks at this stage. Also, if you take progress pictures, try to take a few in the exact same lighting and from the same angles that these photos were taken from. By doing this, you will have a solid frame of reference on your next Color Modulation project. You will be able to "SEE THE FUTURE" in regards to just how light & dark to go and where to do it in relation to how much different these tones will look after weathering and effects. To judge the effects of Color Modulation at this early stage of the model's progress is difficult. It would be like judging a book from the first few pages......in this analogy there is no way to know if the book will be complex and rich with character & plot. In the same way, some may look at a model with base colors applied in the Color Modulation style and decide that they do not care for the appearance. This is not much different than judging the appearance of a model after only the first few steps of assembly!!!
I think this is one of many reasons some people choose to avoid giving Color Modulation a shot. It does have a "LOUD" appearance before filters, washes, chipping, streaking, dust, mud, dirt, grime, oil, grease, etc.
However, any one effect that we use on our models looks odd when viewed by itself. But in concert with all of the other effects, Color Modulation adds so much. With out the Color Modulation, we would be missing volumes of color and the illusion of depth, not to mention a ton of simple visual interest.
Sorry for the rant Scott, I think you are on the right track. The only thing I see that looks odd to me is the color variation from the outside edge of the front fenders ( dark ) to the inside edge ( light ). However, I am sure you have a reason for doing it this way and I will be the first in line to see how it turns out.
"Big Ups" to you for stepping out from your usual process and trying something different. If in the end, you do not care for this style of painting, you will have learned a few things simply by walking through the proccess!
If that is trully your first go at it, you are on the right track man.
You will notice ( as well as others following the thread ) how different the lighter shades & darker shades will look after weathering & any other effects used to manipulate the base color.
Filters alone ( applied BEFORE a satin coat while the base colors are still flat and have more tooth ) will change the appearance radically and tone down some of the transitions. A satin coat will also serve to smooth the transitions by virtue of its reflective properties as well.
The trick is ( And I am not always the ace when it comes to this ) is that the CM technique is not blatantly obvious on the finished model.
As you move on to the weathering, be sure to keep track of how the model looks at this stage. Also, if you take progress pictures, try to take a few in the exact same lighting and from the same angles that these photos were taken from. By doing this, you will have a solid frame of reference on your next Color Modulation project. You will be able to "SEE THE FUTURE" in regards to just how light & dark to go and where to do it in relation to how much different these tones will look after weathering and effects. To judge the effects of Color Modulation at this early stage of the model's progress is difficult. It would be like judging a book from the first few pages......in this analogy there is no way to know if the book will be complex and rich with character & plot. In the same way, some may look at a model with base colors applied in the Color Modulation style and decide that they do not care for the appearance. This is not much different than judging the appearance of a model after only the first few steps of assembly!!!
I think this is one of many reasons some people choose to avoid giving Color Modulation a shot. It does have a "LOUD" appearance before filters, washes, chipping, streaking, dust, mud, dirt, grime, oil, grease, etc.
However, any one effect that we use on our models looks odd when viewed by itself. But in concert with all of the other effects, Color Modulation adds so much. With out the Color Modulation, we would be missing volumes of color and the illusion of depth, not to mention a ton of simple visual interest.
Sorry for the rant Scott, I think you are on the right track. The only thing I see that looks odd to me is the color variation from the outside edge of the front fenders ( dark ) to the inside edge ( light ). However, I am sure you have a reason for doing it this way and I will be the first in line to see how it turns out.
"Big Ups" to you for stepping out from your usual process and trying something different. If in the end, you do not care for this style of painting, you will have learned a few things simply by walking through the proccess!
