There has to be an easier way ..

[sapper23]

I have always used putty to fill ejector marks then sanded ... There has to be a better way...

This is a ridiculous piece to illustrate my pain.

13 things to fix there.

 

[Belugawrx]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but why would you fill sink marks on the underside of a tank top plate that will never be seen..?

 

[Belugawrx]

Oh that's the bottom half of a turret...how much will you actually see once it's assembled?

 

[sapper23]

All of it...

 

[sapper23]

Actually thinking of trying paintable caulking lmao

 

[Calico Jack]

I have always used putty to fill ejector marks then sanded ... There has to be a better way...

Sheet styrene thickness to match pin mark depth, and simple punch and die sets.

 

[sapper23]

Yeah I need to order more styrene though but can do ... Will just work on other sub Assemblys I guess for now.

 

[Calico Jack]

@sapper23 I have a shelf full of various Evergreen sheets, rods, strips and whatnots that I should probably buy some stock...lol. It sure does come in handy more times than not for me.

 

[MJY65]

Put a nice deep drop of Mr Surfacer 500 on each one and walk away for a day. It sands off easily and you can see exactly when you are back down to flush because of the color contrast.

 

[airdave]

Paper Hole Punch.
Punch some paper discs - glue them into the recesses.
Less filler and the glued paper is sandable.

 

[MJY65]

OK. I must be missing something. Why all the multi-step processes with gluing in styrene on what amounts to a non-structural surface defect?

 

[Calico Jack]

OK. I must be missing something. Why all the multi-step processes with gluing in styrene on what amounts to a non-structural surface defect?

I think it boils down to preference. I prefer to fill imperfections with plastic so that I have like surfaces when sanding, scribing, attaching other plastic or PE parts and not having to worry about separation, shrinkage, or cracking over time. Also no worries of possible primer/paint issues.