Thin coats, gloss, satin retaining panel lines...

[vadersrighthand]

I'm having some trouble. I've got myself a lovely Airfix 1.48 spitfire, got it all painted up lovely, but have found again that i've managed to fill the panel lines with paint (when i run my finger nail across one it barely drags or catches the panel line) they are clearly visible when you look at the model. I brush painted a very very thin coat of Vallejo Gloss Varnish on prior to decals (thinned with water (50:50), and a few drops of w&n flow improver) which went down lovely, a much smoother finish than when i've tried to airbrush it. I thinned it loads to be sure that i wouldn't fill in the panel lines - as i figured this would get the 'thin coat' i needed.

This is the same situation as i've seen with my previous three aircraft models, in all cases panel lines were fine (shallow because i'm getting to grips with the airbrush) but as soon as i start to apply varnishes i'm basically plugging all the lines, hatches etc - and then utterly unable to get any kind of wash in place to highlight them - the previous ones I've tried applying washes to (Vallejo washes) the wash has partly sat in the line (or the bead of paint has just sat on top, as if there is no panel line) but as soon as i try to clean up i just end up taking all the wash out, as the lines are so shallow.

(At this point i'm calling for advice)

So, considering I'm using Vallejo model colour or the model air (I'm sticking with these as they do work for me) how do i achieve the 'thin' coat of paint to not obscure detail - having watched a lot of youtube videos and read hundreds of websites and a few books I just can't seem to nail any kind of method either by brush or airbrush to not fill in the lines with paint (or varnish), I'm trying to keep the airbrush pressure low (10-20psi) and the paint as thin as possible at all times.

I'm not going to give up but it really feels like I'm missing something, and considering the stash i've built up - last thing i want to do is commit yet another model to the bin (bin being a drastic explanation but you get the drift).

I've picked myself a up a little 72nd scale tamiya spit to test any advice out on and am basically going to use that as a test bed, just could do with a little info to narrow down where things are going wrong in my process, as all i really want from the little spit is to be able to see the amazing capillary action (in action) when applying a wash.

Thanks in advance

Matt

 

[ScaleModelMadman]

The only thing I can think of is that you are putting the paint on too thick? Even properly thinned paint can be applied to thickly and considering the scale, the panel lines aren't very pronounced to start.

I really don't know what else to offer in ways of help?

 

[vadersrighthand]

Its definitely a case of slapping it on too thick, i picked up some Promodellers Wash (florymodels.co.uk) and slopped it on as per the instructions, then wiped away and it was easily visible those panel lines which were still visible (as in still a trough) and these filled perfectly with the wash, in fact that product alone rescued this model from the 'tester' pile.

I've picked up a couple of cheap kits to really nail my thinner/paint mix rather than using it on 'good' models - i think half my problem is taking what i read online too literally - also i realised that half my problem with this was the fact i primed it white, then pre shaded in black, and there was too big a contrast to cover up (lesson learnt there) hence really piling on the top layers and obliterating the details - I could (after applying the wash) see the rough texture that had come about from my poor paint/thinner mix.

I'm also beginning to think that it may be a wiser idea to try and stick with the model air paints for airbrushing (for the time being) as the model colour - although they do go on lovely when the mix is right getting it right is problematic for me right now.

I can't stress enough how much of a revelation using the Promodeller wash was, it really was easy and with some practice at getting the finish better i can really see the potential of using it.

I'll try and get some images up so you can see what I'm working with on this one - as the wash highlights those panel lines where there just isn't enough depth for the wash to fall in.

 

[Ferris928]

Possibly a little late with this one to help you in any way, but a few times where I've laid it on too thick and the oil wash came out of the line, I'd gently use an exacto blade and cut the line in and then go back over with the wash.

 

[waylow]

On some models the lines are not well defined. Get yourself a set of dental picks. Places line Harbor tool have them cheap. Score these lines prior to painting. If you are priming score them again after primer coat. Then to make them pronounced paint just the lines in a darker color than what your painting the body of the model. Then spray the model. What happens is because the acrylic paint is a layer paint the darker lines come though and those panel lines will pop without a wash. The purpose of a wash is that the water will carry the pigment deep into the lowest point. Once the water evaporates the pigment is left in the line.While your finger nail might catch it, it may not have the depth and width required. The surface tension of the water will not break and the pigment stays above the recess your trying to shade. It's not you at all. You can also try using an ink and painting it directly into the lines. Army painter has a brush called insane detailer its good for this. Another option is edge hi-liting. Here you paint the lines directly a shade darker. Then paint the edges of each panel a shade lighter then the main body color. This will also make them pop. Sorry Im long winded hope this helps