thinning tamiya bottle paints for airbrushing

[domer94]

just getting into airbrushing after decades of modelling. i tried it when i was a teen and was intimidated due to not being successful. figure its time i give it a proper go. is there a rule of thumb for using tamiya bottle paints? do i use water or their thinner for best results. and what ratios are best
thanks

 

[the Baron]

Do you mean the X/XF acrylics, or one of Tamiya's other products?

I use the X/XF acrylics, and I found over a process of trial and error that I get my best results thinning with Tamiya's proprietary acrylic thinner, X-20A, for airbrushing or hand-brushing. For airbrushing, I have also used a lacquer thinner (Rustoleum's product, available at an automobile supply store).

For airbrushing, I thin to a ratio of 1:1, or a little less thinner.

For handbrushing, I use 2 methods. I will use a ceramic palette, put a little paint in a well in the palette, then add a drop or two of the thinner with an eyedropper. Not quite to 1:1, with less thinner than the paint. Or I will use the cap of the jar as a palette to pick up paint, dip my brush in the thinner, then touch it to the lid to pick up the color. Then I let it blend on the piece itself. This works very well for me.

When I learned that Tamiya's acrylics are meant to be thinned, for airbrushing, I first tried water, then isopropyl. But I found that they didn't work as well, for me, as the X-20A thinner.

If you are talking about some other Tamiya product, though, I can't speak to it, because I haven't used any of their other paints.

Hope that helps!

Best regards,
Brad

 

[domer94]

thanks , yes i mean the paints you were talking about. i have the x-20a thinner. will try that

 

[papaof2]

I use Mr Color leveling thinner 400. Mix 2 parts thinner to 1 part paint. I have had excellent results.

 

[Jim62]

thanks , yes i mean the paints you were talking about. i have the x-20a thinner. will try that

That's the thinner to stick with like The Baron said. I also use 1 to 1 thinner to paint mix with a variance from time to time depending on what I want. The best thing now is for you to practice it all yourself and find out exactly what works best for you. Enjoy.

 

[RocketRanger]

I agree with "papaof2" about using Mr Color (regular) thinner for airbrushing Tamiya Acrylics.
Watch this video for more info.

 

[Littlemarten]

You can thin Tamiya acrylics (X and XF) with 90% isopropyl alcohol. Don't use 70%, which is more commonly available, and contains 30% water. Also, if you thin with alcohol, using their acrylic retarder is a must. My only problem with their proprietary thinner is that it's rather pricey, but if that is not a concern, you won't need the retarder.

 

[TimM63]

I just started using Mr Color Leveling Thinner to thin my Tamiya acrylics. So far I am really liking the smoothness and flow I am getting. This will prolly be my go to thinner from now on (for Tamiya acrylic).

 

[Littlemarten]

I use lacquer thinner exclusively, except on certain paint brands.

The problem with "lacquer thinner" is that it has no specific composition. Some of them contain other hydrocarbons besides alcohols, and will have unfortunate effects on the paint. Even using the same brand for years won't necessarily prevent this, as the manufacturer can put anything they want in the mix. The lacquer thinner I have on my shelf will curdle Tamiya acrylics. So it's a good idea, if using lacquer thinner, to read and keep track of the ingredients on the label in case the formulation changes.

So I always recommend either 90% isopropyl alcohol with Tamiya retarder, or use the Tamiya thinner, X-20A.

 

[AKRoast]

The problem with "lacquer thinner" is that it has no specific composition. Some of them contain other hydrocarbons besides alcohols, and will have unfortunate effects on the paint. Even using the same brand for years won't necessarily prevent this, as the manufacturer can put anything they want in the mix. The lacquer thinner I have on my shelf will curdle Tamiya acrylics. So it's a good idea, if using lacquer thinner, to read and keep track of the ingredients on the label in case the formulation changes.

So I always recommend either 90% isopropyl alcohol with Tamiya retarder, or use the Tamiya thinner, X-20A.

I typically use Tamiya X20A with X and XF paints at 1:2 ratio. I found 1:1 is too thin. I usually add a few drops of Vallejo flow improver. Do you think that is doing anything or just a waste, or actually bad for the mix above? Thanks

 

[Edbert]

I just started using Mr Color Leveling Thinner to thin my Tamiya acrylics. So far I am really liking the smoothness and flow I am getting. This will prolly be my go to thinner from now on (for Tamiya acrylic).

I do the same for general spraying, the XF colors can result in a rough texture when using X-20A, but there's something about the "leveling" chemistry of MLT that results in a smoother surface.

I will use 91% or 99% Isopropyl in the airbrush for specific things. Most common use is in post-shading. I will use 1:10 or 1:8 ratio of alcohol for a hyper-thin paint in those cases. It dries almost immediately on hitting the target, but is so thin that it helps reduce dry tip. It dries FAST for sure but being so thin allows me to continue putting paint down on a small spot without puddling or spidering and slowly add to the filter.

MLT has a retarder built into it (I think) that really results in better coverage than X-20A for me. I generally am not a fan of Tamiya X/XF paints for hand-brushing though, I have a hard time not getting brush-marks I think due to the rapid drying. I use Tamiya LP series for brushing unless the area is tiny like buttons on an instrument panel.

 

[Littlemarten]

I typically use Tamiya X20A with X and XF paints at 1:2 ratio. I found 1:1 is too thin. I usually add a few drops of Vallejo flow improver. Do you think that is doing anything or just a waste, or actually bad for the mix above? Thanks

If the Vallejo flow improver works, it works. If you want to check compatibility, mix up some paint using your ratios and put it in a glass bottle with an air-tight tight lid. Let it sit for several weeks, then examine the paint. If it's a gummy or chunky mess, or it looks grainy with gentle mixing, then the Vallejo is poorly compatible with the Tamiya paint. If it looks okay, re-disperses uniformly, try using it. If it sprays and adheres well, everything is compatible enough.

 

[Jakko]

If you want to check compatibility, mix up some paint

This is something that doesn't seem to occur to a lot of modellers Just give it a try — what do you have to lose, other than some paint?

For example, this is how I found out you can thin Italeri paint with isopropanol and can spray that, too, but you don't really want to because a few minutes after you start, you'll be spraying wrinkle paint

 

[Littlemarten]

This is something that doesn't seem to occur to a lot of modellers Just give it a try — what do you have to lose, other than some paint?

For example, this is how I found out you can thin Italeri paint with isopropanol and can spray that, too, but you don't really want to because a few minutes after you start, you'll be spraying wrinkle paint

I've been advocating this for years, even wrote an article including the procedure for FSM, decades ago. This is exactly the testing that paint manufacturers do to determine the long term shelf stability of their paints, though they do it with more care and precision.

 

[styrenemachine]

Tamiya acrylics have been my go to paints ever since Floquil Poly Scale was discontinued, mostly because of availability and a good quality.
IPA, X-20A, and Mr Color Leveling Thinner all work well for me, depending on the finish I'm looking for.
But the best all round thinner for Tamiya acrylics for me is also very cheap!
I mix of 75% IPA (90%) and 25% propylene glycol. Yup, antifreeze! You can get non colored on Amazon. Both products in this mixture have an apparent affinity for the ingredients in Tamiya acrylics.
I find the addition of propylene glycol acts as a mild retarder and prevents paint from drying on the tip and spitting. It will have a slight oily feel. But the real improvement is it reduces the surface tension tremendously. It atomizes better than anything I've ever used and lays down the finest mist that, to me, rivals lacquer paints. It also seems to clean up faster in my air brush.
I mix my home brew anywhere from 1:1 to 10:1 thinner to paint.
Give it a try.

 

[TimM63]

I mix of 75% IPA (90%) and 25% propylene glycol.
Give it a try.

I will have to try this. I have both in quantity so will give it a shot.
Thanks for this

 

[Jakko]

antifreeze

I used to thin Tamiya acrylic paints with pure antifreeze, that works fine, too.

 

[urumomo]

The retarder / flow improver found in all acrylic mediums IS propylene glycol .
It is also used as antifreeze , although most all automotive antifreeze is ethylene glycol which is toxic .

 

[Edbert]

Propylene glycol is used in foods, helps keep things like muffins nice and moist, for many days. I used it in a humidoor and in my gaming PC.

 

[Barrio Dog]

For handbrushing Tamiya X and XF paints I don't use any thinners. In a pallete with cups molded in, I put about 10 drops of paint and 2 drops of Tamiya Paint Retarder. The retarder will thin the paint a little and cause it to be self leveling. Test your mixture out on a spoon and adjust the paint/retarder mix to get where you want to be in terms of flow and opacity.