Vallejo Model Color paints numbering question

[Plastic Pilot]

Hi, I've got a aircraft model plane that comes with the painting instruction in it's manual, so there are a few manufacturers names and the names of the colors in the manual, and one of them is Vallejo, in this case the Vallejo paints are split into two categories Air and Model Color. My question is: the numbers that are written on the label of the Model Color, in this case the colors code is the one after the period? because there is a 70.915 for example and the 70. repeats on each label, so I guess that is the color range or something, and the color code are the three last numbers.

Please let me now, if you are kind if I'm right. Thanx.

P.S. I don't own yet the colors so I got to find out what that code is so I can order them.

 

[Plastic Pilot]

Please ignore this thread, I searched on Bing and found the Vallejo site where all there paints are explained:
https://acrylicosvallejo.com/en/category/hobby/model-color-en/

 

[Pantherman]

Hi, I've got a aircraft model plane that comes with the painting instruction in it's manual, so there are a few manufacturers names and the names of the colors in the manual, and one of them is Vallejo, in this case the Vallejo paints are split into two categories Air and Model Color. My question is: the numbers that are written on the label of the Model Color, in this case the colors code is the one after the period? because there is a 70.915 for example and the 70. repeats on each label, so I guess that is the color range or something, and the color code are the three last numbers.

Please let me now, if you are kind if I'm right. Thanx.

P.S. I don't own yet the colors so I got to find out what that code is so I can order them.

View attachment 130522

You are correct, colour is 70 where as air is 71. And other's have different prefix. I asked vallejo for some info and they sent me a great catalogue of everything they do and loads of leaflets. I particularly liked the various colour sets they have. Pantherman

 

[Pantherman]

You are correct, colour is 70 where as air is 71. And other's have different prefix. I asked vallejo for some info and they sent me a great catalogue of everything they do and loads of leaflets. I particularly liked the various colour sets they have. Pantherman

View attachment 130523

And the catalogue. Pantherman

 

[Plastic Pilot]

Thank you for your answer a congrats for the fine collection of promotional merchandise you got there, I personally love Vallejo more than any other paints, I've tried more then a few different brands and notice how the Vallejo paints, handle very well even in the first layer, diluted they have a very good coverage rate ratio, and they dry nice, even and fast and last forever, I guess that is because of the little bottle that keep out the paint from drying.

I use all so use Citadel and GreenStuff but not for static modelism, but for fantasy or sci-fi figures. But if I have to be honest, Citadel kinda sucks, because the paint just don't has a shelf lifetime like other paints. The Citadel paints seems to expire after a certain amount of time on the shelf, even when sealed. After some time, it deteriorates and apparently can no longer be used. However, with some small ball bearings and a bit of thinner and a match stick, it can be fixed. There is also a special product for restoring dried paint, but I don't know what it's called.

Then there is the AK brand that also is spanish, like Vallejo, but I have tested out only two kinds of paints and a specific product for weathering that turned out very well, guess I'll have to try more of there products to firmly state an opinion about them. But they send you gifts when you buy something from there website and that is cool.

Beside the brands i mentioned above I also tried for a brief period of time the Tamya, Revell and Airfix paints, that came with the usual starting kit for beginners. But id did not turn our well... and I didn't have the chance to try them again, so I can't decide.

The enamel are another story, for the moment I'm working only with acrylics and paintbrush, but in the future I'll have to try the airbrush too, but I can't dice on what to buy, I will start later on a new thread and ask for advice.

See you soon and happy Sunday to all of you!

 

[Pantherman]

Thank you for your answer a congrats for the fine collection of promotional merchandise you got there, I personally love Vallejo more than any other paints, I've tried more then a few different brands and notice how the Vallejo paints, handle very well even in the first layer, diluted they have a very good coverage rate ratio, and they dry nice, even and fast and last forever, I guess that is because of the little bottle that keep out the paint from drying.

I use all so use Citadel and GreenStuff but not for static modelism, but for fantasy or sci-fi figures. But if I have to be honest, Citadel kinda sucks, because the paint just don't has a shelf lifetime like other paints. The Citadel paints seems to expire after a certain amount of time on the shelf, even when sealed. After some time, it deteriorates and apparently can no longer be used. However, with some small ball bearings and a bit of thinner and a match stick, it can be fixed. There is also a special product for restoring dried paint, but I don't know what it's called.

Then there is the AK brand that also is spanish, like Vallejo, but I have tested out only two kinds of paints and a specific product for weathering that turned out very well, guess I'll have to try more of there products to firmly state an opinion about them. But they send you gifts when you buy something from there website and that is cool.

Beside the brands i mentioned above I also tried for a brief period of time the Tamya, Revell and Airfix paints, that came with the usual starting kit for beginners. But id did not turn our well... and I didn't have the chance to try them again, so I can't decide.

The enamel are another story, for the moment I'm working only with acrylics and paintbrush, but in the future I'll have to try the airbrush too, but I can't dice on what to buy, I will start later on a new thread and ask for advice.

See you soon and happy Sunday to all of you!

If you search for "airbrush" on the forum it should bring up alot of info from past questions. My go-to paint is Vallejo as you probably guessed. Love their Air range. Pantherman

 

[Jakko]

the Vallejo paints, handle very well even in the first layer, diluted they have a very good coverage rate ratio, and they dry nice, even and fast and last forever

AFAIK, Vallejo originally made paint for animation film studios, which is why it covers well: they don't want to be painting the same transparency three or four times

I guess that is because of the little bottle that keep out the paint from drying.

I've had more than one dry in the bottle, though. I'm also ambivalent about those eyedropper bottles — too often, changes in air pressure push paint up through the nozzle, wasting it It's also much harder than with screw-top bottles and tins to get all of the paint out, which means yet more unnecessary wastage.

 

[the Baron]

..The Citadel paints seems to expire after a certain amount of time on the shelf, even when sealed. After some time, it deteriorates and apparently can no longer be used. However, with some small ball bearings and a bit of thinner and a match stick, it can be fixed. There is also a special product for restoring dried paint, but I don't know what it's called...

When you say it deteriorates, do you mean that the pigment settles out of the solution? That's not really a deterioration, that's normal for most paints, and the solution is pretty much as you described for your Citadel paints, as far as using ball bearings goes. They need to be shaken or stirred to distribute the pigments again through the solution. I use Vallejo's Model Color, as well as Andrea's paints, and they need to be shaken well before use. Some people buy glass beads and put one in the bottle, to serve as an agitator when shaking the bottle. Glass beads are best, since they don't react in the paint. Ball bearings, or BBs, can react in the solution and oxidize.
The same thing goes for enamels. I use Testor and old Model Master enamels, and I stir the paint before use.
Same with my Tamiya acrylics; I shake or stir them, before use.

 

[Jakko]

Ball bearings, or BBs, can react in the solution and oxidize.

Not to mention you should not put a steel ball into a glass bottle. Trust me. In the 90s, Revell used to sell airbrush-ready enamel paints that already came with one in the bottle. Two of those bottles broke in my hand as I was shaking them, luckily without cutting me but with paint flying all over the place. After the second, I kept using the paint but carefully took out the steel ball from each bottle immediately on first opening it.

As for other paints in bottles or tins: I stir them with a cocktail stick (if the bottle or tin is small) or an ice lolly stick (if they're the size of Tamiya's 10 ml bottles or bigger). This works better than shaking, and is the only way to get things mix for tough paint like most enamels.

 

[Plastic Pilot]

Not to mention you should not put a steel ball into a glass bottle

Mixing Balls from Army Painter... what you say is right, but I know some people that put metal balls in the Vallejo eyedropper type of bottle and for the Citadel jar. It dose not seem to affect or alter the paint, sure that glass balls are more adequate and are inert and don't react with the paint. Glass balls are used all so for the paint spray cans. But I just give energetic shake to the Vallejo bottles and stir with a toothpick or a match stick the Citadel paints for better homogeneity of the paints.

When you say it deteriorates, do you mean that the pigment settles out of the solution?

What I have observed till now, is that the solvent evaporates, or some other reaction takes place, and the pigments solidify and what remains is only the pigments and the binders, the rest of the components of the paint like the additives and the extenders just seem to merge into a mass of little boulders with the consistency of fresh yeast. On other occasions they paint seems like a type of dirt like substance, and in that case you may still recover the paint and use it. But honestly I don't trust a paint if it is in that conditions, even if yoy manage to "repair" it. The paint just ain't gonna work like it is spuposed to, and it may react funny and rouine yor work.

Attached are the types of problems that I've encoter till now and a little invetion of mine, that is the "Infinite Paint Tester", it's just a broken CD case that you prime with your favorite primer and then you can test out the paint, to see how they act if diluted or aplyed directly and drying time:

 

[mark2]

One thing ive found with the vallejo is a previously opened bottle that hasn't been used for a while can have dried paint in the nozzle and clog it up or you can have small lumps end up in your airbrush.

 

[Jim62]

When it comes to shaking or stirring, I'll just refer to Bond James Bond on that one, after all he is a double knot spy.