1/35 Tamiya Rhino

These are called "equilibrators" (apparently), there are two of them, 6 parts each.


Still learning these new glues, using MUCH less, and cementing one half while clamping the other half to avoid my clamp from attracting it.


I was pretty unhappy seeing those casting or injection marks (right term?) in the middle like that. Was trying to figure out how to remove them when I realized NOBODY will see that installed.

Yeah, ejector pin marks. The pins pop the sprue out of the mold after the styrene is injected and set. You might be able to fix those, too, with some 2-part epoxy putty, or even some of the kit sprue, stretched over a candle to the right thickness and then laid in with some liquid styrene cement. If they're hidden, though, yeah, you could leave 'em. Unless it bothers you that YOU know they're there!

Using "gold" paint would be too bright for 88mm shells wouldn't it? Need more of a dull tarnished brass. Is there a good way to weather a pile of shells?

(thought ya'll might get a kick out of this bottle, paint is in excellent condition)

I've got some old Testor's jars like that, from when I was a kid. Some of those enamels start congealing from the minute you open them, like gloss black and gloss white. But I have a bottle of copper that I got in the 70s, and it's still useable.
As far as those colors go, if you were to use Testor's enamels, I agree, gold is too bright. Copper would work better. I use it for gold lace on my figures, because it's a little darker than the gold.

I found this photo on a Farcebook page where they are restoring one...


Appears to be a bit photoshopped, or in 2024 AI-adjusted, but still a helluva shot. Here's the site for the resto job if you wanna see more.

https://www.facebook.com/Nashorn.SD.KFZ.164.restauration

Still working through the kit, overall it is going very well. Lots of fiddly bits on the gun, but just a matter of patience because the parts do fit very well.

Here's some "issues" I had...


These tiny hooks, or tie-downs. It was a chore to get them into their slots, there is a top and bottom to them. But that wasn't the issue I had, again that is just a patience thing. My problem was grabbing them with tweezers, only to see them disappear, launched like a rocket into oblivion. Think I need to learn to be more gentle with the tweezers.


This part (D17), I managed to break it clean when using snippers off the sprue. Tried twice to glue it, but it looked like it had been broken and glued. Replacing it with wire was much easier.

Still chuggin' along, in this pic you can see the D-17 restoration.

That's looking pretty good!

Bummed that I missed those seams, will try to hide then inside the racks.



Pictures make me see things I missed during assembly, like those ejection pin (?) circles.



This is the point, after applying whitewash (1st ever attempt) and beginning the aging, that I realize I took no pics of the beautiful yellow/red/green camo before covering it up.

That looks really nice. I really like how you got that paint to look on the sidewall above the rifle