Group Build: Historical Warships of WWII

In case there are any other folks in this GB who are not experienced at ship building (like me) I have a tip for you.

Do not follow the instructions too closely, I decided not to go out on my own like I often do with subject matter that I am more experienced with. I thought that was wise or just prudent, it was not. I'd recommend attaching the railings and ladders to each stage of the superstructure before building the superstructure regardless what the instructions indicate, it can be an unnecessary challenge to fit them into their positions once the plastic layers are built up.

1737937661592.png
I spent waaay too much time getting "PE-D17" x2 inserted into the tiny hole highlighted in yellow on the left since that platform was well adhered to the structure. Next up is PE-B5 & PE-B6 which have to curve around that platform (highlighted on the right. Both would be MUCH easier if the plastic were not glued the way the destructions said to do in step 11 & 13.

I'm also regretting that I just discovered the practice of using decorative metal "stands" that literally bolt to the inside of the hull, it seems to be almost ubiquitous among ship builders. Considering how shabby the kits' stand is, I understand why. Unfortunately I have already sealed up my hull so it is too late...or is it?

I was just looking at what I have...there are holes that are roughly 1/4 inch under some of the main gun mounts. It would be simple to drill a hole through the bottom of the ship by using them. They are not equally spaced, not cetered longitudinally, but I could drill a hole though them, mount a nut on the end of some allthread, secured with epoxy, and do it.

1737936704060.png

Would that work, it is advised, is it insane?

The large plain area behind #2 turret will be covered completely. I could also cut large holes through it that would allow a more conventional mounting mechanism that was equally spaced. I have an unfortunate habit of finding these things/methods after I've committed my errors.

But I am getting close to putting paint on the hull. I do not understand why so many paint the keel and waterline early in the build, but it seems very common, so I am working on getting it ready to prime.

1737936951240.png
 
Last edited:
Edbert said:
Would that work, it is advised, is it insane?

The large plain area behind #2 turret will be covered completely. I could also cut large holes through it that would allow a more conventional mounting mechanism that was equally spaced.
Click to expand...
It's definitely plausible. You can actually use these pedestals: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B086S55LS...1&skipTwisterOG=1&titleSource=avft-a&newOGT=1

If you drill pilot holes where you want them mounted and then drill with 7/32" bit, the bolts can be threaded into the plastic itself. If you want, you can open the the deck between turret 2 and 3 if you want to use the nuts inside. It's your call and doable.

You could also use wood or balsa to make keel blocks to place your ship on when done. Here's an example.
1000012445.jpg

You can make more elaborate keel blocks similar to these.
1000012444.jpg
Options are yours my friend. Hope this helps.
 
Ok I've got the ship together (mostly) as well as the planes and boats clipped and cleaned up from the sprue and now I'm ready to shoot some primer on it and then lay the paint on it. However I don't have the right paints for Measure 21, so I'm in a holding pattern while I consider my options.
And I don't know if I am going to use the PE rails and stairways that were included with the kit, I've never enjoyed working with PE so I'm debating that as well.

20250127_104531.jpg

20250127_104540.jpg

20250127_104547.jpg

All those little guns were a PITA! I don't wanna do that again :(.
 
wjbrandel said:
Ok I've got the ship together (mostly) as well as the planes and boats clipped and cleaned up from the sprue and now I'm ready to shoot some primer on it and then lay the paint on it. However I don't have the right paints for Measure 21, so I'm in a holding pattern while I consider my options.
And I don't know if I am going to use the PE rails and stairways that were included with the kit, I've never enjoyed working with PE so I'm debating that as well.

View attachment 135901

View attachment 135902

View attachment 135903

All those little guns were a PITA! I don't wanna do that again :(.
Click to expand...
you could do a dazzle camo. :oops:

lossy-page1-1200px-USS_Nebraska_experimental_camouflage.tiff-640x387.jpg

Cruiser-Gloire.jpg

For Tamiya paint you could use this for measure 21.

US Navy Ship WWII
20B Deck Blue #36801 – XF50
5L Light Grey – XF19:2 + XF2:1
5O Ocean Grey – XF24
5H Haze Grey – XF83
5N Navy Blue #15042 – XF18:2 + XF2:1
Hull Red – XF9:1 + XF7:2
 
Last edited:
Edbert said:
In case there are any other folks in this GB who are not experienced at ship building (like me) I have a tip for you.

Do not follow the instructions too closely, I decided not to go out on my own like I often do with subject matter that I am more experienced with. I thought that was wise or just prudent, it was not. I'd recommend attaching the railings and ladders to each stage of the superstructure before building the superstructure regardless what the instructions indicate, it can be an unnecessary challenge to fit them into their positions once the plastic layers are built up.

View attachment 135842
I spent waaay too much time getting "PE-D17" x2 inserted into the tiny hole highlighted in yellow on the left since that platform was well adhered to the structure. Next up is PE-B5 & PE-B6 which have to curve around that platform (highlighted on the right. Both would be MUCH easier if the plastic were not glued the way the destructions said to do in step 11 & 13.

I'm also regretting that I just discovered the practice of using decorative metal "stands" that literally bolt to the inside of the hull, it seems to be almost ubiquitous among ship builders. Considering how shabby the kits' stand is, I understand why. Unfortunately I have already sealed up my hull so it is too late...or is it?

I was just looking at what I have...there are holes that are roughly 1/4 inch under some of the main gun mounts. It would be simple to drill a hole through the bottom of the ship by using them. They are not equally spaced, not cetered longitudinally, but I could drill a hole though them, mount a nut on the end of some allthread, secured with epoxy, and do it.

View attachment 135838

Would that work, it is advised, is it insane?

The large plain area behind #2 turret will be covered completely. I could also cut large holes through it that would allow a more conventional mounting mechanism that was equally spaced. I have an unfortunate habit of finding these things/methods after I've committed my errors.

But I am getting close to putting paint on the hull. I do not understand why so many paint the keel and waterline early in the build, but it seems very common, so I am working on getting it ready to prime.

View attachment 135839
Click to expand...
I found that following the order of steps in model ship instructions is a good way to learn how not to do something again.
I am not kidding with these Trumpeter battleships when I say that the superstructures need to be test built without glue to see what type of origami puzzle it may become, especially when adding PE. Your going along with it very well and doing what we all have done. I see your going through another thing with these kits, nothing below the waterline seems to fit. Lots of carving and sanding.
 
What I can share from my limited experience with warships, is that a single model here is several mini model builds within. The hull, main deck, (hangar deck and flight deck for CVs), superstructure, armament, radar and firing systems, deck equipment, mast and ariels, etc. should all be built and test fitted in sub assemblies. Once you break down the ship this way, you tend to see a clearer picture as to where PE can be placed before finishing, or after. You can also break down more complicated paint schemes this way so you're not building ahead of yourself, or painting yourself into a corner so to speak. when building the superstructure(s), keep them in as many levels as you can for painting and finishing so that it simplifies your life and then assemble your subassemblies. Always work from the center of the ship outward to port and starboard, then forward and aft with all your details and rigging. This will save you many headaches along the way and help to improve the way you build ships. Now let's see if I can keep to this myself on my build....lol.
 
Thanks Jack, you're awesome!

I'm pretty well versed with the dry-fit mentality, but will readily confess that with aircraft and armor the PE is a secondary thought. Almost window dressing.

I was very slow and methodical with attaching the styrene, but I 100% confess I did not do the same with PE. In other realms (armor/aircraft/cars) PE bits generally attach to exteriors, even if they go in cockpits, fighting compartments, engine compartments, they can be added to the plastic after the styrene is glued.

Lessons learned; and if learned the hard way, they set in better. I'm just hoping to advise other newbs with my lessons.

I do routinely look ahead and assemble bits before instructions say to with subject matter I am more familiar with, I was leaning too hard on the paper in this case, knowing my inexperience. That said, this is not insurmountable, just adding to the challenge, which a small and disturbed part of me likes at the same time I am grumbling about it.
 
Calico Jack said:
You could also use wood or balsa to make keel blocks to place your ship on when done. Here's an example.
Click to expand...
"Keel Blocks" eh?

I am learning so much which only reveals how much one does not know. I think that explains this weird base...duh (meaning ME) those are keel blocks!
1738030871430.png
it should be relatively simple to make that into a gloss (semi?) black base with woodish painted portions for the keel block. Dang, so much to learn, so many squirrels!
 
I know what you mean Ed, soo many squirrels. I can't decide when to start the Texas. I have the Thermopylae and a B-24 on the bench. I have gone to the closet stash three times now to get the Texas kit and the first two attempts I brought back a different kit.
 
Here are the fighting tops. The 3D printed set compared to the kits. Trumpeters detail is a little better in the Texas than their Arizona, but the Model Monkey prints are inexpensive, easy to work with, and contribute to a nicer overall look.
Texas IMG_0499-EDIT.jpg
 

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