There has to be an easier way ..

Correct me if I'm wrong, but why would you fill sink marks on the underside of a tank top plate that will never be seen..?
 
Oh that's the bottom half of a turret...how much will you actually see once it's assembled?
 
@sapper23 I have a shelf full of various Evergreen sheets, rods, strips and whatnots that I should probably buy some stock...lol. It sure does come in handy more times than not for me.
 
Put a nice deep drop of Mr Surfacer 500 on each one and walk away for a day. It sands off easily and you can see exactly when you are back down to flush because of the color contrast.
 
Paper Hole Punch.
Punch some paper discs - glue them into the recesses.
Less filler and the glued paper is sandable.
 
OK. I must be missing something. Why all the multi-step processes with gluing in styrene on what amounts to a non-structural surface defect?
 
MJY65 said:
OK. I must be missing something. Why all the multi-step processes with gluing in styrene on what amounts to a non-structural surface defect?
Click to expand...
I think it boils down to preference. I prefer to fill imperfections with plastic so that I have like surfaces when sanding, scribing, attaching other plastic or PE parts and not having to worry about separation, shrinkage, or cracking over time. Also no worries of possible primer/paint issues.
 
I'm not suite sure I see the severity of this problem. Most of them are in flat areas, so just smear some putty into them, wait for it to dry and sand flat?

Though I am a bit puzzled why the ones toward the front would be visible on the finished model. Unless you plan to keep the turret top loose so you can show the interior?
 
Jakko said:
I'm not suite sure I see the severity of this problem. Most of them are in flat areas, so just smear some putty into them, wait for it to dry and sand flat?

Though I am a bit puzzled why the ones toward the front would be visible on the finished model. Unless you plan to keep the turret top loose so you can show the interior?
Click to expand...
Interior will be shown yes ...

Will start a seperate thread for this build when I get a little further in it but is a full interior builds out and all of it pretty much will be visible.
 
Jakko said:
I'm not suite sure I see the severity of this problem. Most of them are in flat areas, so just smear some putty into them, wait for it to dry and sand flat?

Though I am a bit puzzled why the ones toward the front would be visible on the finished model. Unless you plan to keep the turret top loose so you can show the interior?
Click to expand...
It is just irritating is all... Slows down the process for sure. I would think they could have done a little better there. I can see a few spots but 13 just on the lower turret alone!
 
sapper23 said:
I have always used putty to fill ejector marks then sanded ... There has to be a better way...

This is a ridiculous piece to illustrate my pain.

13 things to fix there.

View attachment 136978
Click to expand...
I tend to use a coloured sprue goo to match the plastic colour, it's self levelling and can be cut, scraped or sanded as required. Pantherman
 
I just use Tamiya grey putty thinned down with Tamiya Extra Thin. You can thin it down to whatever consistency you need, then just apply with a brush. There's very little mess, so a quick sand is all you need once it's dry.
 
Calico Jack said:
Sheet styrene thickness to match pin mark depth, and simple punch and die sets.
Click to expand...
This is what a lot of meta-builders do.

I tend to ignore them until it is too late, then I regret them for life. Or just seal the hatches so nobody can point at them :)
 

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