There has to be an easier way ..

[sapper23]

I have always used putty to fill ejector marks then sanded ... There has to be a better way...

This is a ridiculous piece to illustrate my pain.

13 things to fix there.

 

[Belugawrx]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but why would you fill sink marks on the underside of a tank top plate that will never be seen..?

 

[Belugawrx]

Oh that's the bottom half of a turret...how much will you actually see once it's assembled?

 

[sapper23]

All of it...

 

[sapper23]

Actually thinking of trying paintable caulking lmao

 

[Calico Jack]

I have always used putty to fill ejector marks then sanded ... There has to be a better way...

Sheet styrene thickness to match pin mark depth, and simple punch and die sets.

 

[sapper23]

Yeah I need to order more styrene though but can do ... Will just work on other sub Assemblys I guess for now.

 

[Calico Jack]

@sapper23 I have a shelf full of various Evergreen sheets, rods, strips and whatnots that I should probably buy some stock...lol. It sure does come in handy more times than not for me.

 

[MJY65]

Put a nice deep drop of Mr Surfacer 500 on each one and walk away for a day. It sands off easily and you can see exactly when you are back down to flush because of the color contrast.

 

[airdave]

Paper Hole Punch.
Punch some paper discs - glue them into the recesses.
Less filler and the glued paper is sandable.

 

[MJY65]

OK. I must be missing something. Why all the multi-step processes with gluing in styrene on what amounts to a non-structural surface defect?

 

[Calico Jack]

OK. I must be missing something. Why all the multi-step processes with gluing in styrene on what amounts to a non-structural surface defect?

I think it boils down to preference. I prefer to fill imperfections with plastic so that I have like surfaces when sanding, scribing, attaching other plastic or PE parts and not having to worry about separation, shrinkage, or cracking over time. Also no worries of possible primer/paint issues.

 

[chrislunetta]

Actually thinking of trying paintable caulking lmao

Don't do the caulking. It's only temporary, it will dry up and shrink eventually.

 

[Jakko]

I'm not suite sure I see the severity of this problem. Most of them are in flat areas, so just smear some putty into them, wait for it to dry and sand flat?

Though I am a bit puzzled why the ones toward the front would be visible on the finished model. Unless you plan to keep the turret top loose so you can show the interior?

 

[sapper23]

I'm not suite sure I see the severity of this problem. Most of them are in flat areas, so just smear some putty into them, wait for it to dry and sand flat?

Though I am a bit puzzled why the ones toward the front would be visible on the finished model. Unless you plan to keep the turret top loose so you can show the interior?

Interior will be shown yes ...

Will start a seperate thread for this build when I get a little further in it but is a full interior builds out and all of it pretty much will be visible.

 

[sapper23]

I'm not suite sure I see the severity of this problem. Most of them are in flat areas, so just smear some putty into them, wait for it to dry and sand flat?

Though I am a bit puzzled why the ones toward the front would be visible on the finished model. Unless you plan to keep the turret top loose so you can show the interior?

It is just irritating is all... Slows down the process for sure. I would think they could have done a little better there. I can see a few spots but 13 just on the lower turret alone!

 

[Pantherman]

I have always used putty to fill ejector marks then sanded ... There has to be a better way...

This is a ridiculous piece to illustrate my pain.

13 things to fix there.

View attachment 136978

I tend to use a coloured sprue goo to match the plastic colour, it's self levelling and can be cut, scraped or sanded as required. Pantherman

 

[sapper23]

True. Ty panther, I forgot about sprue goo.