1:72 Hasegawa F-105D

[JMac]

Painting is officially underway. At least a little bit. I did forget to paint the front landing gear bay door however...

 

[rookie]

Reverse preshade, I like it

 

[JMac]

Reverse preshade, I like it

Yep. I like to pre-shade this way. It's a little more forgiving, my free hand airbrush work is not that good...

Painting continues at a pace of roughly a colour every couple days.
The gray under belly done. Looks a little too blue/green to me. Have to see once everything is weathered and flat coated.
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/1098507_10200849668141435_1851008051_n.jpg/img]

Dark green pre shade.
[img]https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/1097939_10200849668941455_1252147379_n.jpg

Dark green top done. I seem to have some dust from my lamp falling on the wing, have to clean that up.

Well two more camouflage colours (and finish painting up the details) to go, then I can start on the decals.
Thanks for stopping in and taking a look.

Jason.

 

[yanpol]

Nice build. I like your reverse pre-shading technique, the top side looks especially sharp. What do you think of Vallejo primers? I want to start using acrylics but I read somewhere that if you need to sand a primed surface, Vallejo primers tend to peel off.
I also like your Mr. Surfacer technique for restoring raised details. Mr. Surfacer is also great for representing the rough sections of bombs. Hope this photo explains what I'm referring to:


(U.S. Navy)

Anyway, keep it up!

 

[Quaralane]

Plane's looking good

 

[CDA 455]

Nice build. Mr. Surfacer is also great for representing the rough sections of bombs. Hope this photo explains what I'm referring to:


(U.S. Navy)

Anyway, keep it up!

FYI; The U.S. Air Force doesn't use the thick ablative fire-retardant coating on their bombs that the U.S. Navy uses on theirs.


In fact, if a modeler has bombs for a USN model and wants to use them on a USAF model, the coating has to be sanded off (If the USN bombs are accurately represented) to keep the USAF model accurate.

 

[yanpol]

I didn't know that, thanks for the info. Also, "ablative fire-retardant coating" sounds a lot more accurate than "rough section" .

 

[JMac]

thanks for the encouragements guys.

Nice build. Mr. Surfacer is also great for representing the rough sections of bombs. Hope this photo explains what I'm referring to:


(U.S. Navy)

FYI; The U.S. Air Force doesn't use the thick ablative fire-retardant coating on their bombs that the U.S. Navy uses on theirs.

In fact, if a modeler has bombs for a USN model and wants to use them on a USAF model, the coating has to be sanded off (If the USN bombs are accurately represented) to keep the USAF model accurate.

Thanks for the info CDA 455 & yanpol. I did not know that either.

I was just working on the masking for the last two colours, I hope to post some pictures in the next couple days. The paint work on this is a little more complicated/laborious than I originally thought. Would have gone a lot faster if I'd felt comfortable free handing it.

What do you think of Vallejo primers? I want to start using acrylics but I read somewhere that if you need to sand a primed surface, Vallejo primers tend to peel off.

I really like them, (the black is the best). As i mentioned before, they are very low odour. I have not done a cost comparision, but i would bet that I can spray (prime) more models, than if i used a similar priced Tamiya spray can ( that being said, some hardware store primers can work for even less cost). I've been using the Vallejo primers for about two years now. I have sanded them just fine in the past.

Here's some tips that I've either received from my own experience or other users of the Vallejo primer line;

1. Make sure your plastic surface is clean and free of oils. I wash everything with warm water and dish soap. Make sure washed parts are fully dry before priming.
2. Shake the primer really well, then shake it again.
3. I spray the primer at a higher pressure than I normally paint at (between 20-30 psi depending on the colour).
4. Although YouTube videos show that the Vallejo primer can be sprayed on heavy and that it self levels really well, I find I get much better adhesion if I spray light even coats.
5. Even though the primer may feel dry to the touch in a few minutes, leave it overnight to dry.

Hope that helps, and answers your question.

Jason

 

[JMac]

Ok, so I did a huge painting session today.

Here's what it looked like masked up this morning.

And here's what it looks like tonight. I'm pretty happy with how everthing is shaping up. The white balance is a little out on the pictures below, so the colours are a little off...

I have a few spots where I have to correct some over spray, and one spot where I scratched the paint with my tweezers. I'll fix those tomorrow and then on to details painting.

Thanks for dropping by and taking a look. Comments always welcome.
Jason

 

[rookie]

That looks nice J

 

[CDA 455]

Ok, so I did a huge painting session today.

And here's what it looks like tonight. I'm pretty happy with how everthing is shaping up. The white balance is a little out on the pictures below, so the colours are a little off...

I have a few spots where I have to correct some over spray, and one spot where I scratched the paint with my tweezers. I'll fix those tomorrow and then on to details painting.

Thanks for dropping by and taking a look. Comments always welcome.
Jason

The camo came out very nice!

 

[Junkie]

Looking great. Camo is nice and tight. Preshading looks great too.

 

[JMac]

Thanks a bunch guys. I really appreciate the kind comments.

Not much happened build wise yesterday, it was my wedding anniversary.

However, today was kind of an ugly, painful gong-show of a modeling day. First my desk lamp/magnifier broke. My cameras SD card doesn't seem to store any pictures (and the kids lost the cable to down load pictures direct from the cameras memory). Then I found out (after gluing) that the rear landing gear and the drop tanks interfere and can't possibly both fit. Then front landing gear bay doors look awful - they have a huge gap running underneath, between them and the fuselage. Lastly, it wasn't a tail-sitter when I put the landing gear in, but is one now that the wheels are on.

Tomorrow I'll start to look at fixing some of these problems. Most will require me cutting off some of the parts I just finished gluing to the model. The tail sitter thing is really going to be easy to fix, but the drop tanks and the front doors... I'm sure I can fix most of the problems, the build will end up looking ok, but it won't be the most accurate F-105D.

I'll let you know how it goes.

Jason

Sorry no pictures today.

 

[Quaralane]

Loving how that paint turned out

 

[hilld]

I'm lovin' this build Jmac. I enjoyed learning about your reverse pre shade technique. I look forward to trying it on my next build. Your camo is awesome!

 

[rookie]

Sure you will sort it out mate, looking good.

 

[JMac]

I've started cutting and "fixing". :-\
My solution for the drop tanks was to glue them to their pylons very slightly off centre, and to make the pylons longer with polystyrene shims. I cut the pylons off, then attached rectangular stock to them using Tamiya Extra thin.

Extra nose weight was added by coating steel sling shot ammo in PVA glue and dropping them one by one down the tail pipe.

Here I've cut the offending front landing gear bay doors off (not 100% sure how I'll fix them yet) and just finished up rough sanding the shims to match the shape of the pylons.

Jason

 

[WayneUK38]

this is looking awesome, superb finish, i have a revell Thud to do at some point, hope i can get it looking half as good as this

 

[JMac]

this is looking awesome, superb finish, i have a revell Thud to do at some point

Thanks Wayne. I also have the Revell kit, I'm kind of thinking that would be a good follow-up build maybe in the winter months. I'd have to get new decals for mine however, the original kit ones are toast.

I did manage to get everything cut apart and re-assembled, to a point where I'm happy with it. I Future'd the kit this morning and hope to start the decals this afternoon/evening.

Jason

 

[JMac]

Gloss coated, decals on and the raised panel lines done. I'll start on the fade and weather next along with a little more detail painting. Some of the decals (mainly the "TH" on the tail fin) shifted on me as I blotted out the extra decal set solution, win some, lose some I guess.
Getting closer to finished...

Thanks for taking a look.
Jason