1966 CH-47A Chinook Helicopters

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get the 91%

Thanks! Thank you for all the help you're giving me. I would have stalled out a long time ago if it weren't for you and the people on here!

 

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No paint call-outs for the thing that holds the rotors on? I have to assume that these parts ar black... Am I painting #D33 correctly?

EDIT:: I'm painting #D33 in H12... (Click the Thumbnails)

 

[Jakko]

This is where a little research into the real thing helps Searching for CH-47 rotor head very quickly resulted in photos like this:



That disc at the bottom looks like your part D33 to me.

 

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This is where a little research into the real thing helps Searching for CH-47 rotor head very quickly resulted in photos like this:

View attachment 129251

That disc at the bottom looks like your part D33 to me.

I didn't know what the rotor head was called. Thanks for your help.

 

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It looks like maybe the older Chinooks (1966) didn't have the cone shaped dust screen. (YAY! I didn't want to chape the PE cone anyways!)

1960's Chinook Helicopter

 

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'Chinook' British air show

 

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Got bored and decided to paint the rotor tips in H329 yellow. I just wanted to tell you guys that if Someone else with a yellow Helicopter displaying a paint job 5 coats thick and explaining that it could take 5 coats with yello, White, Orange... Other paints don't cover well with one coat.... I would have given up with this project if I didn't know that yellow is difficult... Thank you SOOO MUUCH!

This is what I'm painting... (Rotor Tips)

 

[Jakko]

I've found the best way to paint yellow is to do it over a white undercoat, and before the darker colours like the black on your rotor blades. Basically, paint white first, then yellow, and then mask it off so you can paint the black. Spraying yellow is nearly always better than hand-painting it, too, because you'll avoid the brush streaks that almost invariably appear.

Of course, this tip is too late for this model but it'll probably be useful in future.

 

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I've found the best way to paint yellow is to do it over a white undercoat, and before the darker colours like the black on your rotor blades. Basically, paint white first, then yellow, and then mask it off so you can paint the black. Spraying yellow is nearly always better than hand-painting it, too, because you'll avoid the brush streaks that almost invariably appear.

Of course, this tip is too late for this model but it'll probably be useful in future.

I can't buy an air brush right now. I'm sort of scared to make the transition to Air Brush. (They cost lots of money)

 

[Jakko]

Spraying cans work very well if you just need to spray something occasionally, and for generic colours like white, yellow, red, etc. you're far better off buying them from car parts stores etc. than ones intended for modellers.

 

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I've been using a 4B pencil and some graphite to outline the panels of the Fuselage like a weathering paint but more precise. It looks really cool and is easy to do to like weathering paints you can buy. Then Just a while ago I broke off the sponson on one side of the fuselage. I was having a LOT of difficulty cementing it back on when I started looking for a tube of cement that I have that takes a LONG time to set to see if it would work better. In that endeavor I found my Gorilla Glue superglue and remembered Gorilla Glue Superglue bonds better on painted surfaces.

I went to the doctor office to get a blood sample and the phlebotomist was going to throw away this long blue rubber band and I asked if I could keep it. She decided it wouldn't cause any problems and gave it to me. I wouldn't be able to glue the parts together without that blue band. (As seen in the photos. )