Part:6 Just a Few Details
Let me start by first saying thanks to Ken for laying down some useful insights on the difference between Live and Dead tracks....THANKS Man!!
First up is Welding;
Using liquid cement, lay down the weld using .020†evergreen styrene rod, .015†might be better for scale effect. Once the rod had softened a bit, then form it around the curved areas and allow to dry about 24 hours. When bending the rod around curved areas, you may have to use a fast drying cement such as Ambroid Pro Weld.
After the styrene rod had dried, dice/chop it along the various lengths. After that tedious process, divide the weld areas into workable sections. Applying liquid cement and let it sit for about 7 to 10 minutes to get it nice and soft. Then dice/chop the soft weld. The idea here is to add additional cuts to replicate weld beads and to somewhat flatten the rod.
A few suggestions, if you feel like trying this method, please practice on an old spare kit first. Also make sure you have very good lighting and if needed a good set of magnifying glasses to help see what you are doing. Always use a new sharp knife blade when doing the dicing/chopping. Not necessarily a new method, but it’s the one that gives me the best results.
Next is the Lifting Rings;
The lifting rings supplied in the kit are satisfactory but look a bit anemic. I decided to replace them with a suitable size wire. After a quick search around the work area an acceptable product was located, 14gage lead-free silver solder. To determine the correct diameter of the bend for the rings the original kit parts served as guide. Select a round object that fits inside the ring to serve as a form, a grill bit works well. Next cut a length of wire, solder or whatever you are using. Ensuring that wire/solder is straight, bend it around the form as shown in the photo.
Using the gluing davits as a guide drill the appropriate size holes through the plastic. Insert the newly made rings into the holes. Use the form to set the height of the rings as shown below and super glue into place from the inside of the hull.
For the welds, epoxy putty can be used. Roll the putty into a thin thread and wrap around the base of the lifting ring. Using a suitable flat tipped object such as an old #11 hobby knife blade, the back side not the sharp side, texture the putty into a wield pattern.
I think welds turned out ok but maybe a bit over sized and a bit too course. An additional suggestion would be once the epoxy thread is in place let it sit for a time and harden a bit before applying the weld texture. As usual practice this a couple of times before doing this to your current build.
Below are the two products that where used to make the lifting rings.
Lastly are Grab Handles;
I’ll be covering the constructing of handles for hatches, power plant access doors and this can even be use for tie downs.
The Jig below helps form the handles into the basic shape. The best part of this jig is that it’s free with the only cost being in materials used to build it. I built this one about 15 years ago!!
Another option for forming the handles is to use a PE folder if you own one already. Just use an appropriate sized “finger†on the folder to set the width of the handle and finish squiring it off with your handy pliers.
The following illustration steps you through the process of using the jig to form the shape of handle, not hard to do but does need a little practice.
Next is to attach the handles to the location. Use a spacer to help set the height of handle. On the backside bend the wire in to help hold the handle in place. Use whatever glue you like and allow to dry.
That’s it your handles are basically done. If you like add a little epoxy putty for welds at the base of the handles.
I hope many of you found these helpful and provide ideas that you can apply to your future modeling projects and if anyone has additional insights related to these or other techniques please shair with the rest of us!!
