Big drop of paint on bristles

SrsBidness28

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May 31, 2012
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I am somewhat inexperienced when it comes to brush painting, and I am trying to improve my detailing skills. One area I am running into is when I go to use 3/0 brushes or smaller, I get a large droplet of paint at the end of the bristles when I dip them in the paint. I have wiped off the excess on the rim of the paint jar, but that eventually starts to clump and causes other problems. Is there anything I can do to stop this from happening?
 
The idea is to stop the paint drying in your pallete, lid, jar and to loosen up the surface tension that gives you the big blobs.
You can use a thinner to reduce the thickness of the paint, as mentioned put the paint onto a palette (plastic lids work) or you can try a retarder.
Tamiya do one for their acrylics, there are lots in the 'art' section of the craft stores.
Personally I use the Badger Minitaire stuff for acrylics.
It stops the paint drying as quickly and gumming up
 
Counter-intuitively, the smallest brush is not necessarily the best choice, especially with acrylics. There are some figure master painters who would never dream of going smaller than a 0. Any smaller and you end up with so little paint that it literally starts to set between the pallet and the model. Retarders are one option, but with experience you will be surprised at how fine you can get with a 0.
 
What kind of paint are you using? As Webby and sunsanvil have noted, acrylics dry fast, and small amounts on a fine brush point dry very fast indeed. Depending on the application--painting eyes, for example--I'll reach for oils, when I need to apply a very small amount to a tiny area, and have the paint stay wet long enough.

Enamels will also dry, though not as fast as acrylics.

You mention wiping the brush on the jar rim. That makes me think you're dipping the brush into open jars to get the paint on them. This technique has its place--for example, when I paint my toy soldiers using gloss enamels, I'll dip in the jar. But I strongly urge you to get a palette of some kind, if you're not already using one, especially for acrylics.

I have a ceramic one, with a well in the center and six wells arranged around (Japanese, and I like to think of it as a stylized chrysanthemum). I will put a drop of the acrylic in a well, either using the dropper bottle that the paint comes in (eg, Vallejo, Andrea), or I'll use a toothpick, an old brush, or an eyedropper, for acrylics in jars (eg, Tamiya). Then I put some of my thinner (water, Tamiya's proprietary brand, for Tamiya acrylics, or isopropyl) in another well. Then I'll dip my brush in the thinner, then in the color and apply it. Sometimes I'll mix the thinner, using the eyedropper, right in the well with the color, and mix a batch for my painting session. Sometimes it's necessary to adjust the amount of fluid on the brush, after loading it with paint, by dragging it lightly over a paper towel or a cloth rag. This is something I learned to do by trial-and-error, and by watching others paint, and I tried it, till I got the results I liked.

As far as palettes go, there are all kinds of things to use. I know some guys who use old CDs. I've started using old jelly jar lids, because I can throw them out after use. I also save the little plastic containers--the size of a shot glass or so--that Chinese restaurants hereabouts use for sauces in takeout orders. I can use 'em, then chuck 'em, after a painting session. My process is still pretty much the same--I'll place the paint on the palette, then the thinning agent, drop by drop, and then mix as necessary, or dip the brush in the thinner then the paint.

If you're using Tamiya acrylics, I strongly urge you not to paint from the jar, but to use a palette and Tamiya's proprietary acrylic thinner. Tamiya's paints are forumlated for airbrushing and are intended to be thinned, and they work best this way. This, too, I learned through trial-and-error, and through discussion with other modelers. I used to paint from the jar with Tamiya, and found that some colors worked OK, others were horrible. Flat Black, for example, would clump on the brush and on the painted surface. Even after I let a coat cure, then next coat would pull it up. I decided to thin them, but I was Dutchy about it, and used isopropyl. It works to thin a lot of acrylics, but not Tamiya. They still clumped. So I bit the bullet and bought their acrylic thinner, ignoring cries from my fellow cheapskates that "it's just isopropyl, same thing". It's chief ingredient might be alcohol, but for me, it thins their paint perfectly, and straight isopropyl doesn't.

Vallejo and Andrea thin OK with water, or with alcohol, in my experience. I've been using water regularly for those. So do craft store acrylics.

I hope that helps!
 
Oh, and I'll use the palette process above with oils and with enamels, too. The thinners just vary, that's all. With oils, I use mineral spirits, and with enamels, I've started using lacquer thinner. But the process is the same.

With those thinners, I do need a non-reactive palette, so that's why I have the ceramic palette. But if you use old CDs, you might be able to use one for a session, with a harsh thinner, before it attacks the palette, and then throw it out when you're finished.

I also know a painter who fashions a little cup out of kitchen foil, and uses that. He chucks it, when he's finished with the session.

Hope that helps!
 

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