cargoman5126
Anything in scale I'm into it...
- Joined
- Nov 7, 2012
- Messages
- 829
Very wild looking kit.. Nice work on the ears....
Bulkystapler BSC entry- Industria Mechanika-Goblin
- Thread starter Bulkystapler
- Start date
JohnSimmons
For Spud: I was once Merseajohn
- Joined
- Jan 4, 2011
- Messages
- 5,645
Nice to see it getting built up 
Bulkystapler
New Member
- Joined
- Apr 7, 2015
- Messages
- 12
Hi guys,
Another progress post.
I mentioned previously that I needed to experiment with the chainmail, and I did have a go at it today. First thing I did was wonder what the machine that makes this stuff looks like. Ten points to the guy who invented it! Anyway I tested to see if it would be attracted to a magnet and it wasn't, and it seemed obvious to me that the IM wouldn't spec their own requirements for a material like this, and it looks exactly like the stuff that gloves are made of if you work with filleting fish or changing doctor blades on a paper making machine. (I've done both!). So I'll take a punt and say it's 316 stainless steel. Two things need to be considered here, If you want to make it look tarnished and old and corroded, that's not easy and the other thing is that it will be hard to cut! Don't (if you get a model like this) try to cut it with lovely sprue cutters or Dad's shiny wire cutters. Kill two birds with one stone and heat the chainmail up with something mega hot (I used Mapp gas in a blowtorch) and leave it to anneal. It takes on a "forged" look and glistens when you move it around in the light, has a blue/dull/charcoal/sparkly look. The following photo will reveal exactly what I'm talking about if I was a good photographer, which I'm not. Annealing it will make it easier to cut too.
On other resin kits I have made the seam lines on the parts are very easy to see because they look like the San Andreas fault line. Not this kit! You have to search for them and then wonder how they managed to do such a good job.
This was the worst one.
By the way my kit is numbered 44/100 so I got in quick and probably have something pretty fresh.
Generally I stuff around a lot when making models, I have been known to fully paint a figure and assemble it then bust it up, strip it and start again. That's what makes this hobby fun for me. Thinking about what the model will look like and what you end up with, for me, should be the same thing. It's edumacational.
Here's a better photo of the Toadstool after primer.
Experimenting with the "blisters" On the toadstool. I'm using CA glue and bak.ing soda to build up the zits and then tinting them with ink.
I like the sparkly piss coloured sheen they have. Makes the toadstool look a bit crook. The red helmet of the mushoom needs stacks of work. At least a few washes to dull it back.
More soon guys,
Love your work.
Another progress post.
I mentioned previously that I needed to experiment with the chainmail, and I did have a go at it today. First thing I did was wonder what the machine that makes this stuff looks like. Ten points to the guy who invented it! Anyway I tested to see if it would be attracted to a magnet and it wasn't, and it seemed obvious to me that the IM wouldn't spec their own requirements for a material like this, and it looks exactly like the stuff that gloves are made of if you work with filleting fish or changing doctor blades on a paper making machine. (I've done both!). So I'll take a punt and say it's 316 stainless steel. Two things need to be considered here, If you want to make it look tarnished and old and corroded, that's not easy and the other thing is that it will be hard to cut! Don't (if you get a model like this) try to cut it with lovely sprue cutters or Dad's shiny wire cutters. Kill two birds with one stone and heat the chainmail up with something mega hot (I used Mapp gas in a blowtorch) and leave it to anneal. It takes on a "forged" look and glistens when you move it around in the light, has a blue/dull/charcoal/sparkly look. The following photo will reveal exactly what I'm talking about if I was a good photographer, which I'm not. Annealing it will make it easier to cut too.
On other resin kits I have made the seam lines on the parts are very easy to see because they look like the San Andreas fault line. Not this kit! You have to search for them and then wonder how they managed to do such a good job.
This was the worst one.
By the way my kit is numbered 44/100 so I got in quick and probably have something pretty fresh.
Generally I stuff around a lot when making models, I have been known to fully paint a figure and assemble it then bust it up, strip it and start again. That's what makes this hobby fun for me. Thinking about what the model will look like and what you end up with, for me, should be the same thing. It's edumacational.
Here's a better photo of the Toadstool after primer.
Experimenting with the "blisters" On the toadstool. I'm using CA glue and bak.ing soda to build up the zits and then tinting them with ink.
I like the sparkly piss coloured sheen they have. Makes the toadstool look a bit crook. The red helmet of the mushoom needs stacks of work. At least a few washes to dull it back.
More soon guys,
Love your work.
JohnSimmons
For Spud: I was once Merseajohn
- Joined
- Jan 4, 2011
- Messages
- 5,645
Great update and tips there mate, keep it up!
cargoman5126
Anything in scale I'm into it...
- Joined
- Nov 7, 2012
- Messages
- 829
Very cool stuff going on... The details in the casting are amazing...
Bulkystapler
New Member
- Joined
- Apr 7, 2015
- Messages
- 12
Gidday blokes.
I mentioned before that the master for the mould was 3d printed and that I had to find my macro lens to get a shot of the detail I am talking about. Here you go.
If you look closely at the centre of the photo you may see lines that are similar to the contour lines on a map. Most of the bits in this kit are covered with these, they are not intended to be part of the goblins skin texture. To hide them I'm finding that I need to go hard on the paint, lots of coats and less thinner than normal. Quite frankly they are a real moan and they (IM) loose a few points for doing this. Hasn't put me off though, I'd buy another one in an instant.
Today I did the "codpiece" thing.
Bits of armour.
His footwear.
And finished the zits on the toadstool. I think.
And mocked it up to get an idead of what the colour combinations are like.
Not sure on the pants colour.
Anyway, I'll keep battling away. Actually it's the most fun model I have had a go at.
Cheers,
David
I mentioned before that the master for the mould was 3d printed and that I had to find my macro lens to get a shot of the detail I am talking about. Here you go.
If you look closely at the centre of the photo you may see lines that are similar to the contour lines on a map. Most of the bits in this kit are covered with these, they are not intended to be part of the goblins skin texture. To hide them I'm finding that I need to go hard on the paint, lots of coats and less thinner than normal. Quite frankly they are a real moan and they (IM) loose a few points for doing this. Hasn't put me off though, I'd buy another one in an instant.
Today I did the "codpiece" thing.
Bits of armour.
His footwear.
And finished the zits on the toadstool. I think.
And mocked it up to get an idead of what the colour combinations are like.
Not sure on the pants colour.
Anyway, I'll keep battling away. Actually it's the most fun model I have had a go at.
Cheers,
David
JohnSimmons
For Spud: I was once Merseajohn
- Joined
- Jan 4, 2011
- Messages
- 5,645
Nice work David, love his shoes!
nicholassagan
sippin on gin + juice
- Joined
- Dec 28, 2011
- Messages
- 2,013
This is looking cool!
cargoman5126
Anything in scale I'm into it...
- Joined
- Nov 7, 2012
- Messages
- 829
Looks amazing... that's the one thing that makers who sell casts from 3D prints need to take the time to smooth out the master so that you don't see the layers of the original print... The metal pc's look great..What did you use??? for the base metal??? Thanx
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