Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 uber detail build: Completed!

Re: Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 uber detail build

LUCK! These things are pretty indestructable, so unless you wire up the power leads backwards, you should be able to fix any mistakes.

However if you get the + and the - backwards, it will fry the chip.
 
Re: Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 uber detail build

Grendels said:
LUCK! These things are pretty indestructable, so unless you wire up the power leads backwards, you should be able to fix any mistakes.

However if you get the + and the - backwards, it will fry the chip.

Yeah I kinda figured that... I tried to make sure I used white for + and black or any other color for - so I wouldn't confuse which was what when it was time to test out the power. The white/blue combo is only gonna be used for the switch for the soundboard. The White/black I'm using just for main power, white/orange is being used for the front LED leads and the white/green for the rear leads. I got all this wire from an old CAT5 ethernet cable I had in my closet. Was really surprised that all the wire combos were already wound together in pairs so it really made things easy. Just wish it was solid core wire instead of stranded wire, but it should work none-the-less.
 
Re: Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 uber detail build

The big old box of Cat 5 I have is solid core, so I don't have this problem. Keep the updates coming!
 
Re: Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 uber detail build

I always hold onto old wires and cables (never know when they will come in handy). I've got some other CAT5 cables I may tear into to see if they are solid or stranded.

Quick update....

I've got all the LEDs hooked up and soldered into place (except the holoprogector light) and was having some problems getting them to stay lit. IT would run on one chip for a little while and then the other, and if I touched the chip they would run for a little while and then stop until I touched it again. I discovered something weird. As soon as I touched pin 11 and 10 together of either chip the flashing would increase really rapidly for a little while and then stop again. But if I touched pin 11 with any kind of metal (a wire, a knife blade, etc) it would start running again with no problems for a little while. I think there might be a problem with the resistance value of pin 11 without a resistor on it. But I discovered if I put a wire on pin 11 that wasn't connected to anything at all, it seemed to be running just fine. I took a couple of the spare capacitors I got and just hooked one end to pin 11 and left the other end free. So far it seems to be running fine with no problems. I'm doing a burn in test for awhile to make sure it will continue to run without any further problems. So far, it's been going over an hour like this and hasn't stopped at all. Will keep everyone updated as I continue to work on this.
 
Re: Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 uber detail build

Finally after many hours of testing, failing, screaming, kicking, crying, and using lots of foul langauge... THE CIRCUIT IS COMPLETE AND WORKING!!! Just got to wrap the leads so they don't short and I can put this into the dome and finish this baby! I put together a nice long video explaining all the lights and problems I had. You can check it out here:


Working LED Circuit


Even got the Holoprojector light in! I would appreciate any and all comments!
 
Re: Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 uber detail build

I am enjoying it, and like how all those LEDs are working for ya!

;D ;D ;D
 
Re: Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 uber detail build

Wow, glad you got it sorted.....this will bring your R2 to life, I'd be very proud of that work.

Looking forward to seeing it fitted

John
 
Re: Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 uber detail build

Jaitea said:
Wow, glad you got it sorted.....this will bring your R2 to life, I'd be very proud of that work.

Looking forward to seeing it fitted

John
Took me long enough... thought I would never get this light circuit working!
 
Re: Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 uber detail build

BIG UPDATE:
Yesterday I did a test lighting of the fiber optic panels and I gotta say, this is gonna look great. Please pardon the blurriness of the vid but it don't focus too good on the flashing lights. However, they really look awesome. Here's a quick vid of how the panels look.

Fiber Optic Light Test

Busy day today with a bit of damage control. One of the Blue LEDs that I had been using was an old one from another kit I was working on awhile back, had snapped at the base and I was scrambling because I didn't have anymore. First I figured I might be able to get away with using a white one painted blue and it looked like it would work, and then I remembered, one of the old toy circuits I was going to use at the beginning of the build had a working blue on it, and I hooked it up and it works no problem. Crisis averted and all is well with the world. I got some liquid electrical tape. This is like concentrated plastic, and works great to seal your wires. Just brush it on and let it dry. Works awesomely. I highly recommend it for anyone working on electronics in this scale. Saves alot of time.

r2-liquidtape.jpg

r2-liquidtape2.jpg


So, my main focus today was working on the mood lights. I still had to fabricate something to hold the 2 3mm LEDs for both the front and rear mood lights. So, I looked around and racked my brain and finally came up with an answer. Using an old drinking straw I cut a couple of small pieces off (about 1/2 an inch long a peice).

r2-straw.jpg


Then, I wrapped them in aluminum metal duct tape to reduce the light leakage...

r2-strawwrap.jpg


Then attached the ends to the backs of the mood light panels.

r2-tubeplaced.jpg


While testing on the lights they fit perfectly but produced a nasty hotspot that I was able to get rid of by stuffing inside the straw tube a tiny bit of cotton from a Q-Tip cotton swab. I tested it again and viola... no more hotspots.

r2-frtmood.jpg

r2-rearmood.jpg


The two leds fit perfectly inside the straw and with the little bit of cotton the light was dispersed enough to create a very solid and diffused light. Works and looks perfect. If you noticed there's a little bit of my scultping putty on the back of the "eye". That's because I went ahead and made a very subtle detail that you never really notice unless you go looking for it and it's really hard to see unless you shine a light into it. I wanted to take advantage of the fact that these panels are made out of clear blue plastic. So I made what looks like a camera iris and stuck it in behind the "eye".

r2-eyedetail.jpg


It's soo hard to see I actually had to use a flashlight held up close just to get this pic. It's not perfect and very very hard to see unless you're looking for it, but it's there. Just thought it would make a little bit of a hidden detail that no one else would think of doing. :) Anyway, that's all for now. This baby is coming together nicely. Most of the main problems have been figured out and the build should be going alot faster now. More to come!
 
Re: Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 uber detail build

ModelMakerMike said:
Cool schtuff!
Hard work is paying off!
Thanks bro... patience is a virtue... at least that's what I've heard! Not that I know about it first hand or anything! LOL
 
Re: Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 uber detail build

Quaralane said:
Looking very good here

Thanks... I'm trying to take my time on this so I don't miss anything but it's getting close to completion and the rush is on! :)
 
Re: Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 uber detail build

This is quite intricate stuff here, the lighting looks awesome.
 
Re: Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 uber detail build

It really looks as though R2 is processing/thinking/alive

Fantastic job LrdSatyr8, I'm hooked

John
 
Re: Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 uber detail build

Jaitea said:
It really looks as though R2 is processing/thinking/alive

Fantastic job LrdSatyr8, I'm hooked

John

Thanks John... if VooDooFX had produced the circuit I came up with, this would have gone a whole lot faster. I think that this is exactly what R2 needed the most!
 

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